Tyres destroyed on inside wall

[pebblypuss]

The scuffing you are experiencing on near full lock i.e when pulling out of your driveway etc is caused by the tyres sort of scuffing/skipping, i personally don't think this is a problem and is to do with the sheer width of the tyres (mine are standard 235) i think you will notice it more when the weather is colder like today (i put this down to the rubber being stiffer when colder) also it seems worse when the tyres are fairly worn compared to new ones.

I know several friends who's audi a4's do this and they think the same as me.

I also think that a lot of this slow hard turning could be something to do with the inside wear, but i could be proved wrong. My wife drives my quattro and its mainly used for small journeys and lots of parking! (mainly at expensive shopping centres!!!!!!!!!!)

I dropped mine in at Audi and to be fair they checked it over for free and announced that it looked 'fairly normal'. The tyres have done 20k miles, a mix of UK and French Motorways and Kent country roads (not the best maintained it has to be said). Yes the scrubbing is really bad - but the tyres are worn and it has been really wet so I've been noticing it more recently. I'm feeling a bit paranoid that there's an issue that isn't easy to resolve, but then I do have a habit of pushing the car hard round corners and roundabouts here - if only because I can!

So I'm going to put new tyres on the front and monitor them closely.
So the next question is: which tyres? Are some better at coping with this sort of wear than others. I have to say I've been impressed by the grip on the Michelin PS2 I've got on at the moment but not so happy with the wear (and price). I know that wear and grip are mutually exclusive but is there a better 'all round' tyre?

[Sumpy467]

I have the Audi specs for a 2003 - 2006 sportline quattro GmbH from 8E-2-025688

FRONT CAMBER-: MIN -1 degree 12 min. MAX - 0 degrees 22 min.

FRONT TOE-: MIN 0 degrees 8 min. MAX 0 degrees 12 min.



REAR CAMBER-: MIN -1 degree 50 min. MAX - 0 degrees 50 min.

REAR TOE-: MIN 0 degrees 8 min. MAX 0 degrees 15 min.


Mine were all put correct except front left camber which is -1 degree 52 minutes. This is 40 minutes (or 0.66 degrees) over limit. Suspect bent upper arms or hub carrier.

As promised the alignment figures:

Front Camber Spec left (min -0deg55' max-0deg05') adjusted -4' to -1deg15'
Front Camber Spec right (same) adjusted nil to -0deg45'

Front toe left (min 0deg8' max 0deg12') adjusted -4' to 0deg13'
Front toe right (same) adjusted +0deg7' to 0deg9'

Rear Camber left (min-1deg50' max -0deg50') adjusted nil to -1deg28'
Rear Camber right (same) adjusted -0deg7' to -1deg24'

Rear toe left (min 0deg8' max 0deg15') adjusted +0deg3' to 0deg10'
Rear toe right (same) adjusted +0deg1' to 0deg18'


Note these figures are for A4, 01-03 quat 8E-2-025687

I notice writing these figures in that the front left camber is 20' out after adjustment, will have to ask the fitter the reason for this

The other two (front left toe and rear right toe) are within spec total however, they are on the limit. I suspect it's a case of adjust one angle and it effects several other angles- chasing ones tail! but as I say they are within overall. Will ask fitter about these too, especially as I expressed I'm having problems.

[Sumpy467]

Just found this on tinternet, interesting reading.

http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quat...alignment.html

[TapMyHed]

All,
A bit long winded, but bear with me......

You might want to consider ball joints and bushes, bottom and top arms. When sat static, these will most likely sit where they are supposed to be, but on the move it would be a different story. Front wheel drive will pull the wheels in together on the gas and force them out on the brakes. You only need one bush or one ball joint to set the dynamics off and over the milages your are talking about it is enough to cause premature wear to the tyre either specifically to the outside edge (acceleration) or inside edge (braking)....or both.

With the arms, its important to have them tightened to the sub frame with the weight on the wheels, the reason for this is the actual rotation of the arm, as the suspension rises and falls, rotates through the bush rubber....if these are tightened up with weight off the wheels they will sit rotated around from there ideal position. The top arms should naturally sit about 47mm down when off the hub (a little less for sports/lowered). If the bushes are not sitting at a neutral angle these will wear and offer movement to the dynamics....hence wearing the tyres out.

Also, if you have changed an arm due to bush or bearing issues, you really need to change them all in one go.

Dont use chinese imports.....although cheap, there is less metal on the arm, they are not properly made and the balls will fail quicker...I know I learnt that lesson. Try to buy german TUV approved arms. I got a set of complete lowers, heavy duty for my B6, for 150 delivered and I have to say I'm impressed.

Before you search for alignment issues you really have to ensure your arms are tight at both ends, not bent, the C-link are tight and the subframe bushes to chassis are good. The roll bar bushes should be tight too. After that consider worn springs and shocks.... especially shocks......anything over 100K miles = you need new shocks....and dont forget tyre pressures.....which should really be the first check.

After that, then alignment.....like I said, static and dynamic are different...if your experiencing worn outer/inner edges then the front is loose. Wheel bearings should also be considered, but less likely, as are worn hubs, which is rare.

Hope that helps!

[Hex69]

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned speed humps.

Most people straddle them causing wear to inside edges of the tyres, you should alternate each side driving over the centre of the humps.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/...to-shreds.html

[SWARCUP]

Do you drive over a lot of those annoying speed humps that only the inside wall of the tyre hits. They become rough and destroy tyres, if you do, have a look at the state of the humps and take it up with the council. A friend of mine has the same on his alfa and it is the humps doing it. I suppose if the hump is cutting the rubber then when your tanking it the tyre is sort of self destructing. Hope this is a help

sorry if i sound like im repeating the previous post as i didnt read all the posts before writing

[Martin F]

Sumpy, thanks for posting that. I think you need to ask some questions of the place that done your alignment as they shouldn't leave it out of spec without making you aware of it and explaining a good reason why.

However that aside, going from -4deg camber on the front left to a lot closer to spec should make a significant difference. Would you happen to recall whether this tyre was wearing more than the right one?

Although the only thing I would say is that because the camber and toe are both out of spec on the front left (after adjustment) maybe there is some wear or damage to one of the components there.

Bushes and ball joints do wear and obviously will have a big effect on suspension geometry but a decent alignment place should have inspected those during the job, especially if they were having trouble trying to achieve spec.

Sorry but I don't buy the speed humps story (makes a good story for the press though) as I reckon you would have to go over so many, so often and at a reasonable speed before wear from this one thing became significant.

[Sumpy467]

Martin F, yes actually now you mention it, it is the front left that goes first.
BTW it was -4'(minutes) adjusted but point taken.

Also the speed bumps, I was convinced these were to blame after the last lot of new fronts. So I was quite **** driving over them (much to the annoyance of cars following me!) it obviously made no difference what so ever, but I bet that debate will go on...

[Martin F]

BTW it was -4'(minutes) adjusted but point taken.

Doh!

Should have read closer.

[rhencullen1989]

The front camber is not really adjustable on the B6 A4, the subframe can be moved slightly but this will affect both sides, so only small adjustment there.

Of course the top and bottom arms could be slackened where they bolt to the subframe and also the strut top could be loosened to see if there is any movement to bring the camber closer to spec. I still think my top arms or my hub assy is slightly bent, causing excessive wear on the front inside edges.