1.4 Timing Belt Change

[guv.c]

I managed to lock the cam's by using two bolts of the exact right size of the locking holes, so they slide right into the holes on the housing. No need for the special locking tool. The bottom crank bolt was a pita without air tools. I managed to do it by making a V using two pieces of metal, with a bolt sticking out to hold the pulley while you turn the bolt. Dont turn the bolt without holding the pulley otherwise all the force goes onto the belt (new or old).

Other than that, its not too bad, quite fun.

[Alan G H]

I managed to lock the cam's by using two bolts of the exact right size of the locking holes, so they slide right into the holes on the housing. No need for the special locking tool. The bottom crank bolt was a pita without air tools. I managed to do it by making a V using two pieces of metal, with a bolt sticking out to hold the pulley while you turn the bolt. Dont turn the bolt without holding the pulley otherwise all the force goes onto the belt (new or old).

Other than that, its not too bad, quite fun.

Always loosen the crank pulley bolt before you lock the cams, and tighten it fully after you remove the locking pins in the cams, to ensure you don't strain the belt.

[Crasher]

And always fit a new bolt, they are one time only stretch bolts. One thing that may catch you out with this is most of the original bolts are 19-mm 12 point, the new ones are 21-mm 12 point.

[Piddles]

Done it.

I'm feeling soooo Moneysupermarket right now!

I got Genuine VW parts, the cam belt kit had everthing I needed. It all went amazing well following the above guide, no significant issues at all.

I spent more time fabricating the special tools taking your comments into account (next door has a little machine shop in his shed - I'll post some piccies later) than I did on changing the belt, so facturing in my time it would have been far, far more cost effective to take to the garage. But feeling of satisfaction......priceless!

Many Thanks to everyone above.