2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0 TDi Quattro Special Edition

Afternoon! I have owned this car since Feb 2015, and thought I'd stick a thread up here so I can share my ownership experiences and costs for anyone that might be interested. I have a thread on Pistonheads but thought there may be a bit more love for the car on here.

http://thumbsnap.com/s/8N46oKVw.jpg

I'm the 2nd owner of the car, and I bought it with just under 68k on the clock. I bought it as I'd just accepted a new job, and the client site is 94 miles away each way, which I go to 3 days a week at the most. Previously I had a company car.

From what i can tell, there aren't any additional options over above the special edition spec, so that means I have Milano leather embossed with the S-Line logo, Xenon headlights, 19 inch wheels, MMI 3G with DVD/HDD, and Bluetooth. The only options I really wish it had are DAB, and AMI.

Initially I had problems finding the right seating position for me, so I was quite uncomfortable. But after playing around with it for a few weeks I have it just right.

I booked the car in for a major service in June at Audi, and got a service plan which included a 2nd service for a total of £399. I also had the brake fluid flushed at the same time for £59.

As soon as the car had been serviced, I took it to a good friend of mine, who is an approved dealer for Viezu, and had the car remapped. This meant the ECU had to come out to be upgraded on the bench, as the ECU is tricore and could not be flashed via the OBD port. I asked for a blend of performance and economy, and am happy that the result feels completely factory. Whilst the trip computer shows an improvement in economy, there has been no improvement when I measure fill-to-fill. Whilst I was at my friends garage, I used his VCDS to enable needle sweep on startup, the lap timer/oil temp/boost gauge, visual rear parking aid, and passenger mirror dip when the car is put in reverse.

A week or so later I booked my car in to a local Audi specialist to replace the tiptronic gearbox oil and filter. I bought a kit for this from Bristol Transmissions, which came with filter, gaskets, and 6 litres of ZF Lifeguard 6. This cost £157. And then the specialist charged me £165 in labour. I did notice a slight improvement in the shift change quality, although it wasn't bad at all.

At the end of July, I had all 4 tyres replaced at 80k. The old ones were the OEM Pirello P Zero Rosso's, and I changed them for Michelin Pilot Sport 3's (255/35/19) in AO fitment. This cost me £639.77.

Then in August we took a family camping trip for 2 weeks in Devon & Cornwall - complete with roof bars, box and bike carriers...

http://thumbsnap.com/i/sg7nmIIB.jpg

In October, with the car at 86k, I took the car for an oil and filter change at the local specialist. This cost me £112.99, but included a litre bottle of Castrol Edge 5W30 for top ups.

And following that, I took the car for a Hunter wheel alignment which cost £78.

http://thumbsnap.com/i/5UwwUoXA.jpg

Which brings me up to today. I was speaking to a mate on Friday about MOT's, and realising I didn't know when it was due on my car, I checked on the DVLA website. It expired on November 6th!!! So I rang Audi who got me in today, and did the MOT whilst I drank their coffee and sat in their cars. The problem is I now want an RS6. :drive:

Total cost was £50.31 - £49.99 for the MOT, and 32p for a number plate bulb. No advisories, and a clean bill of health on the health check. All my tyres are at 5.0mm with even wear across the tread.

As of today, the car has done 89,900 miles. The cost of running the car, including fuel, tax, servicing, remap, tyres etc (but not including insurance or depreciation) is 25p per mile, which I am really happy with.

Thanks for reading.

Welcome to the forum.
Nice car.
Don't forget the power steering fluid change as well.
May I suggest that you put your car details in your signature to help members to answer any future questions.

Hi & thanks,

I haven't read anything about changing power steering fluid before - can it cause issues?

And I will try and sort the signature out.

The AMI is an easy retrofit on your car its just fitting the cable to the back of the MMI unit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jones_g

Hi & thanks,

I haven't read anything about changing power steering fluid before - can it cause issues?

And I will try and sort the signature out.

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The PS fluid should be a clear green colour, if its brownish, it wants changing. Like any other fluid, it gets dirty & worn out. I've changed mine twice and I am only on 38k miles. (But car is 7 years old this year)

Engine coolant should be changed every 5 years too.

Brake fluid every 2 to 3 years. I alternate my brake fluid between Blue & Gold so that I can see when all the fluid is changed.

Keep oil & filter changes to 10k miles tops. (Don't go for the Audi long life option)

Ok, AMI retrofit sounds good. Is it really that simple? Any idea on cost?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by royclark

The PS fluid should be a clear green colour, if its brownish, it wants changing. Like any other fluid, it gets dirty & worn out. I've changed mine twice and I am only on 38k miles. (But car is 7 years old this year)

Engine coolant should be changed every 5 years too.

Brake fluid every 2 to 3 years. I alternate my brake fluid between Blue & Gold so that I can see when all the fluid is changed.

Keep oil & filter changes to 10k miles tops. (Don't go for the Audi long life option)

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Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can check the ps fluid tomorrow.

The car is only 4 years old at the moment but it has done plenty of miles. I will most likely get the coolant flush done at the next major service.

Brake fluid has recently been done and I won't ever go past 10k for an oil change anyway.

DAB and AMI are both retrofits I've done which shows how simple they are.

I got a used AMI from ebay for £175 + £25 for the retrofit cables from ebay

DAB I got the module for £100 from ebay and agin £25 for the retrofit cables + £20 for the Ariel.

There are plenty of threads on here telling you how to fit them.

I just wish folding mirrors was as simple (and cheap) as those were.

Just realised you have 3G MMI where I just have 2G so I'm not sure how much difference that makes to the retrofit.

The 3G MMI is just a lead for the AMI and an enable in the hidden menu.

You just drop the glovebox and plug the 2 cables and just push out the pre cut hole in the top of the glove box for the main socket.

AUDI AMI + iPod iPhone adapter - MMI 3G & 4G - Retrofit -

With the mileaage you are doing, you will be having 5 oil changes a year which is probably excessive. If you want to do that, you should do the interim ones yourself. Only about £40 for filter and oil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott K

With the mileaage you are doing, you will be having 5 oil changes a year which is probably excessive. If you want to do that, you should do the interim ones yourself. Only about £40 for filter and oil.

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Hi,

I'm doing about 30k, so only 3 oil changes a year. I priced up the oil recently and it was just over £80 for the same oil that the garage use, so for me it made sense to use them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dan2485

The 3G MMI is just a lead for the AMI and an enable in the hidden menu.

You just drop the glovebox and plug the 2 cables and just push out the pre cut hole in the top of the glove box for the main socket.

AUDI AMI + iPod iPhone adapter - MMI 3G & 4G - Retrofit -

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Thanks for the link - no price on there for that item at the moment as it's unavailable.

I do 30k miles a year look at new brake pads each year and two sets of tyres.

Discs will need changing every 2 years.

I found this post on another thread ref the DAB retrofit - too expensve really...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Westyfield2

That is correct.

To retrofit DAB to a non-DAB MMI 3G+ car there are two options:

1. Buy the Fistune module. It fits in the boot rack and will need its own set of power/fibre connectors (you can tee off from the existing modules). If your rack is already full of other modules, then you're stuffed. Note that whilst the Fistune properly integrates into the MMI, it doesn't have autotuning or multiple DAB tuners like the Audi one does. Cost is about £380
2. Replace the original Audi AM/FM tuner (bottom row of the rack) with the AM/FM/DAB version that Audi would have fitted if you'd ticked the option. Cost new is about €1200 from Audi. This is actually what the Kufatec OEM kit (£530) and Hazzydayz (£714 fitted) kits are. Presumably they are both cheaper than Audi parts because they're using refurbished equipment or they're factoring in resale value of your original AM/FM tuner.

Note that either way, you also need a couple more pieces than just the tuner. You need the short cable that connects from the antenna in the window to the antenna amplifier. You need the antenna amplifier that gets hidden in the C-pillar (€75 from Audi). You need the Fakra coaxial cable from the antenna amplifier to the DAB tuner. The Kufatec and Hazzydayz kits include all that.

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Try eBay and kuftec for the leads they cost around £100.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dan2485

I do 30k miles a year look at new brake pads each year and two sets of tyres.

Discs will need changing every 2 years.

---

Yeah maybe, although I'm hoping I'm quite light on brakes and tyres - 90% of my mileage is motorway.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jones_g

Hi,

I'm doing about 30k, so only 3 oil changes a year. I priced up the oil recently and it was just over £80 for the same oil that the garage use, so for me it made sense to use them.

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Ok. I took the mileage from your original post when you stated your commute was 96 miles each way. Big difference! What ok are you paying £80 for 6 l? Opie oils has Mobil 1 (Audi use it for long life) for £33 for 5 litres or £130 for 20l. I have Fuchs Titan GT1 which was about £100 delivered for 20l and is Audi approved (507.00)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott K

Ok. I took the mileage from your original post when you stated your commute was 96 miles each way. Big difference! What ok are you paying £80 for 6 l? Opie oils has Mobil 1 (Audi use it for long life) for £33 for 5 litres or £130 for 20l. I have Fuchs Titan GT1 which was about £100 delivered for 20l and is Audi approved (507.00)

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My commute is only 3 days a week, sometimes less. I think it was castrol edge - 2 x 4L bottles.

Glad it's only 3 days. Must be murder sometimes! I do my own interim oil changes and only takes 20-30 minutes as I use a vacuum. Also lucky that I can use the warehouse at work and we have waste oil containers!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott K

Glad it's only 3 days. Must be murder sometimes! I do my own interim oil changes and only takes 20-30 minutes as I use a vacuum. Also lucky that I can use the warehouse at work and we have waste oil containers!

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Yeah coming home tonight wasn't fun, but it's usually not too bad. The job is great though - the commute is the only negative.

How do you find the C7? Bi-tdi must be a great motor.

It's great. My 3rd A6 and the best by far. Really comfortable, very quick and good road holding. Bit big for booting it up in corners but surprisingly good considering. The cabin was a step up from my last one but I did spec this well-probably too much in all honesty but I want to keep this a good while. My mileage has dropped to about 20k from 30 so between that and the improved economy, I am saving about £2500 a year which was a surprise. Servicing so far has been good - first was £323 and this one was £513. Not bad for 38000 miles. I am also changing oil in between. Long term average is just under 40mpg, probably because we do quite a few long journeys at motorway speeds. You need to get a test drive of one. Trouble is you probably won't want to give it back.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jones_g

The cost of running the car, including fuel, tax, servicing, remap, tyres etc (but not including insurance or depreciation) is 25p, which I am really happy with.

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Do you mean 25p per mile?

As has been stated oil changes are quick, and usually gets out 7.5l (7 if I vacuum it) typically it costs me less than £24 for 5l (which I buy in batches of 7 to enable 5 changes) oil filters are circa £5 and a new sump plug and washer £2 (as bought a few). So each change costs me £40, albeit I do a 3rd of your mileage so change the filter every 5k and oil every 10k.

If you plan to keep the car for another 2yrs I would buy VCDS as (if you can't use a friend for scanning) it will pay for itself in the first 12 months.

I gave up the company car over 10yrs ago, at that time I was doing in excess of 30k business miles, I used my profile pic car which I had LPG converted, and despite being a 4.0 V8 I could manage 350 miles for £18, in today's money that would equate to around 70mpg. The 'fun' thing was that my company had no facility to claim for LPG so on 300 miles I would reclaim £54 (on top of my £9k cash-in-lieu) which paid for road tax, insurance, servicing, MOT and tyres...RESULT!

Welcome and thanks for your great post :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott K

It's great. My 3rd A6 and the best by far. Really comfortable, very quick and good road holding. Bit big for booting it up in corners but surprisingly good considering. The cabin was a step up from my last one but I did spec this well-probably too much in all honesty but I want to keep this a good while. My mileage has dropped to about 20k from 30 so between that and the improved economy, I am saving about £2500 a year which was a surprise. Servicing so far has been good - first was £323 and this one was £513. Not bad for 38000 miles. I am also changing oil in between. Long term average is just under 40mpg, probably because we do quite a few long journeys at motorway speeds. You need to get a test drive of one. Trouble is you probably won't want to give it back.

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Sounds great. It was my original plan to get a new C7 but I thought I might be better getting a used car with my mileage. I do really like them and hope to get one in a few years time. Impressed with the economy too - is that trip computer or measured?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MarkTM

Do you mean 25p per mile?

As has been stated oil changes are quick, and usually gets out 7.5l (7 if I vacuum it) typically it costs me less than £24 for 5l (which I buy in batches of 7 to enable 5 changes) oil filters are circa £5 and a new sump plug and washer £2 (as bought a few). So each change costs me £40, albeit I do a 3rd of your mileage so change the filter every 5k and oil every 10k.

If you plan to keep the car for another 2yrs I would buy VCDS as (if you can't use a friend for scanning) it will pay for itself in the first 12 months.

I gave up the company car over 10yrs ago, at that time I was doing in excess of 30k business miles, I used my profile pic car which I had LPG converted, and despite being a 4.0 V8 I could manage 350 miles for £18, in today's money that would equate to around 70mpg. The 'fun' thing was that my company had no facility to claim for LPG so on 300 miles I would reclaim £54 (on top of my £9k cash-in-lieu) which paid for road tax, insurance, servicing, MOT and tyres...RESULT!

Welcome and thanks for your great post :)

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Yes I did mean 25p per mile - thanks for noticing, I've edited it now.

I love XK8's, great looking cars. I did think about an LPG converted car for the work trips.

A good mate of mine builds VW campers and has VCDS, and he lets me use it when it's needed.

Thanks to those who mentioned the vacuum oil change idea - has me intrigued now so I'll look into that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jones_g

Yes I did mean 25p per mile - thanks for noticing, I've edited it now.

I love XK8's, great looking cars. I did think about an LPG converted car for the work trips.

A good mate of mine builds VW campers and has VCDS, and he lets me use it when it's needed.

Thanks to those who mentioned the vacuum oil change idea - has me intrigued now so I'll look into that.

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They were voted in the worlds top 5 most beautiful cars from launch in 96 until 2002, mine was the 23rd off the production line and in launch colour of Antigua Blue...so am holding onto it, as a Summer car and insured for 6k miles it only costs me £109 per annum :)

As to the vacuum method I have tried both and own a Pela pump, but found that it consistently removed half a liter less than draining via the sump, so decided to not have half a liter of that old crud affecting the new oil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MarkTM

As to the vacuum method I have tried both and own a Pela pump, but found that it consistently removed half a liter less than draining via the sump, so decided to not have half a liter of that old crud affecting the new oil.

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Like you Mark, I too have the Pela pump but have opted not to use it for changing my oil for the same reason as you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by royclark

Like you Mark, I too have the Pela pump but have opted not to use it for changing my oil for the same reason as you.

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It seemed like 'a good idea at the time' for both of us then Roy? :) & :(

I realised I hadn't update this in a while, so will bring it up to date, may be a bit long so apologies for that.

The car had an oil and filter change on 26th of October 2015, at 86,006 miles. This cost me £112.99, and included a 1L bottle of Castrol Edge 5W30 in case I needed a top up.

On the 11th of Jan this year i took the car for its MOT. I thought the car came with a 12 month MOT when I bought it in Feb last year, but after talking to a friend, I checked online, and it had expired on November 6th!! I took the car in to Derby Audi and it passed with no advisories. They replaced a number plate bulb which I told them was faulty, and the total cost was £50.31 - £49.99 for the MOT with MOT protection insurance for next year, and 32p for the bulb.

In March a couple of our friends got married, and asked if they could use the car for their wedding. So I detailed the car and this is how it looked for their wedding day...

Attachment 31418

On the 21st of March I took the car in for an oil and filter change at Audi - there was no charge as this was part of the earlier service package I bought from Audi. Car was still fault free after just over a year and 27k miles. The mileage at this point was coming up to 95k.

In July a van driver drove in to the back of me on the M1, albeit at low speed so there was only minor cosmetic damage. The bumper was replaced by Inchcape Toyota in Burton and I have to say they have done a fantastic job, and I am VERY fussy. However, they charged the insurance company £1182 so it wasn't a cheap job. I have never ever been 100% happy with the work of a bodyshop before now but this was great. The hire car I was given, a Volvo V70 D4, cost the insurance company £387.10 per day. Ridiculous.

To bring it up to date, earlier this month I took the car in for another oil and filter change, diff oil change, air con service, and 4 new tyres. I went for Goodyear Eagle F1's this time. The old tyres, Michelin PS3's, lasted 25k. The total cost was £881. I did ask for the transfer box oil to be done at the same time but apparently there is only a fill hole, no drain point. This was all done at 104,508 miles.

I have now gone over 107k, and the car has still been completely faultless during my ownership, in which I have covered just under 40k.

Over 39k it has cost the following:


£6,079.39 in diesel
£3,717.09 in other expenses - servicing, preventative maintenance, insurance, remap, MOT's etc.


So that works out as 25p per mile, not including depreciation. Most of my mileage is covered by expenses (45ppm for first 10k, 25ppm thereafter) so even with depreciation the car isn't costing me a great deal at all to run, especially if I factor in the company car tax I used to pay in my old job.

I am now again considering DAB/AMI retrofits. I think I have found the DAB bits but am trying to find out where I can get the component protection sorted. For AMI I have read so many threads and I still am not sure exactly what I need. Some say you need to fit a module, others say just a cable.

Thanks for reading if you've got this far.

Also forgot to mention, I have the car booked in to have the wheels refurbished on September 5th. Full strip and powder coat at the wheel specialist. The wheels had previously been sprayed, and were starting to flake slightly, there is also a little corrosion behind a couple of the spokes. And when I had the tyres replaced, all 4 wheels were scratched by the machine.

Thanks to a couple of really good posts on here, and B5NUT answering a couple of questions for me, I decided to go for the AMI and DAB retrofit.

I bought a DAB radio module 4F0 035 061 B for ebay.de for £140, then bought the amplifier (4F9 035 225 S), 3 pin connector (1C0 983 119 B), captive nut (WHT 000 011) and screw (N 106 569 01) from Audi, along with a couple of repair wires, all of which cost me £55.91. I then bought a 6m cable with Fakra connectors to connect the radio module to the amplifier from Car Electronics on Ebay for £10.

I bought the AMI wiring loom from Kufatec in the end, for £175, and got the glovebox trim from Audi for around £5. I still need to get the AMI iphone cable yet, so looking round for a good deal.

Following this thread - VW Audi Forum - The #1 VW Group Community - I started by removing the interior trim I need to take out in order to run the cabling, and install the amplifier. As I didn't fancy soldering the wiring to the window, I bought some conductive paint but I just couldn't get on with it at all, too thin and was taking way too long to dry. So for the time being I have gaffer taped the cable conductors to just test that everything works, and will look for another solution.

I then took out my old radio unit, fitted the DAB radio unit, and connected up the 3 existing connectors and the new DAB amplifier connection. I turned the ignition on to see whether it had worked. I could now select DAB, and there was a huge list of DAB stations, but no audio. So I took the car to my friends garage as he has VCDS and borrowed his laptop. I enabled digital radio in the application list, but still no joy. I did a full scan and got the following:

hursday,08,September,2016,16:50:54:55487
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 16.8.1.3 (x64)
Data version: 20160902 DS256
Ross-Tech: Home




VIN: WAUZZZ4F7BN071876 License Plate:




Chassis Type: 4F (4F0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 08 09 0E 0F 15 16 17 19 42 46 4F 52 53 55 56 5F
62 72 76


VIN: WAUZZZ4F7BN071876 Mileage: 174060km-108155miles


01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
0E-Media Player 1 -- Status: OK 0000
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
4F-Centr. Electr. II -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
5F-Information Electr. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
76-Park Assist -- Status: OK 0000

And the relevant fault codes:

Address 0F: Digital Radio
Cannot be reached



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels: 4F0-907-468.clb
Part No SW: 4F0 907 468 M HW: 4F0 907 468 F
Component: GW-BEM 4CAN-M H06 0035
Revision: LB100029 Serial number: 2900L113058029
Coding: 000303
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 3979D9BEB0812D8AA9-806C


Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8K0 915 181 C HW: 8K0 915 181 C
Component: J367-BDM H07 0125
Serial number: 00000000002790711947


2 Faults Found:
02095 - Component Protection Active
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 180
Mileage: 174061 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.08
Time: 15:03:49


Freeze Frame:
Bin. Bits: 10111
Voltage: 11.60 V
Count: 7
Text: FF30746C20023100
Text: FF30746C20023100
(no units): 29688.0
(no units): 49.0


02230 - Digital Radio (DAB) (R147)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 180
Mileage: 174066 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.08
Time: 16:36:11


Freeze Frame:
Bin. Bits: 10111
Voltage: 11.90 V
Count: 7
Bin. Bits: 10011

Address 56: Radio (R) Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No SW: 4F0 035 061 H HW: 4F0 035 061
Component: Radio U DAB H45 0048
Revision: AB001007 Serial number: 343H$097527664
Coding: 010105010000000002
Shop #: WSC 06443 128 28888
VCID: 214911DE3811554A81-8074


2 Faults Found:
02095 - Component Protection Active
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 179
Mileage: 174061 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.08
Time: 15:02:56


02095 - Component Protection Active
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 219
Mileage: 174061 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.08
Time: 15:02:56

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels: 4E0-035-6xx-5F.clb
Part No SW: 4E0 035 666 H HW: 4E0 035 666 C
Component: H-BN-EU H51 0174
Revision: -------- Serial number: 454CX0B7583260
Coding: 010101010002C3ED01000315EF6300030001
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 2B55F3F64ADD8F1A2B-807E


Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8R0 060 884 N
Component: EUR 2011 1205


Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 8F0 919 604 HW: 8F0 919 604
Component: DU7 High H43 0098
Serial number: 9466C-0B0546169


Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 4F0 910 609 E HW: 4F2 919 611 M
Component: Bedienteil MM H01 0060
Serial number: 00000001804936


Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8R0 060 961 A
Component: CD-Database 2712


3 Faults Found:
03276 - Please Check Software Version Management
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 180
Mileage: 174066 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.08
Time: 16:35:21


Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 12.40 V


00384 - Optical Databus
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 220
Mileage: 174066 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.08
Time: 16:33:17


Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 12.70 V


00822 - Connection DSP to Radio
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 180
Mileage: 174066 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.08
Time: 16:35:24


Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 12.60 V






So for the time being I have connected the old radio unit up until I can try and work out what's going on. The component protection codes I was expecting, but not the others, so I need to do a bit of research.

The AMI I have still yet to fit.

Thanks for reading.

The coding on the AMP is wrong the internal amplifier is disabled so you won't get any sound, try this coding 01010302010000000000. Also component protect is enabled this could also cause problems, if it does then you need to visit your local Audi dealer and get it removed.

Also remove 0F from the gateway, that is the old DAB 2G module.

Use this page to help remove the "03276 - Please Check Software Version Management " on the 5F module

Once you have done all that clear all the fault codes and you should be all fixed.

I've got an AMI cable if you want. It's got the Lightning connector and a white collar. I'll try and remember and get the part number from it or PM me for details and photos.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by B5NUT

The coding on the AMP is wrong the internal amplifier is disabled so you won't get any sound, try this coding 01010302010000000000. Also component protect is enabled this could also cause problems, if it does then you need to visit your local Audi dealer and get it removed.

Also remove 0F from the gateway, that is the old DAB 2G module.

Use this page to help remove the "03276 - Please Check Software Version Management " on the 5F module

Once you have done all that clear all the fault codes and you should be all fixed.

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Thanks, I was planning on visiting the dealer today to see if they would help with the CP - spoke to the service desk on the phone who didn't have a clue what I was talking about. I will remove 0F later this morning. Do I need to enable digital radio anywhere else?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott K

I've got an AMI cable if you want. It's got the Lightning connector and a white collar. I'll try and remember and get the part number from it or PM me for details and photos.

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That would be great, thanks - I think the part number I need is 4F0 051 510 AE which I am told is the white collar cable with lightening connector.

No. Just code the radio module correctly. You may have to power cycle the radio to enable the AMP.

Thanks - I put the coding in as you suggested and now I have audio that intermittently cuts out. I guess this is down to the component protections and explains the fault codes which have intermittent against them.

I have contacted my local Audi dealership today who have told me they will have nothing to do with removing component protection from 2nd hand units, so I have booked the car in to my local specialist, but I couldn't get it in until next Friday unfortunately.

Get a set of firmware disc and perform an update if the DAB needs an update then this will get the DAB working correctly, the CP code will be still there but everything will work.

If the DAB cannot be updated then you need an authorized specialist to remove the CP.

i have just upgraded my radio to OEM 3G DAB and the firmware trick worked for me.

Thought I better update this...

I managed to complete the DAB install and everything is working as it should now. The local Audi dealer would have nothing to do with removing the CP, but fortunately the local specialist was able to do it.

As I wasn't comfortable soldering the wires from the amplifier to the antenna contact points on the window, I used a conductive paint, which I found really good to use. It's called bare conductive and came in a squeezy tube.

I did a scan today and I still have a couple of fault codes.

2 Faults Found:
02877 - Digital Radio Antenna (R183)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 222
Mileage: 176566 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.24
Time: 17:01:05


Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 11.40 V


03175 - Invalid Data Set
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 222
Mileage: 176566 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.24
Time: 17:00:55


Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 11.40 V
Bin. Bits: 00000000 00001110

I have cabled between the amp and antenna as detailed in this thread - VW Audi Forum - The #1 VW Group Community

If I clear the codes and check again the codes return. Has anybody else seen this?

Thanks,