Replacing the timing belt on a Golf Mk4 Tdi pd 130

[Capability]

How to change the timing belt on a Golf MK4 130 pd (engine code ASZ).
After a lot of umming and arrhing I decided to change the timing belt on my Golf MK4 130 pd (engine code ASZ).
I was told that it would be a pig of a job – and it was. It took me 2 days but I was probably over cautious and was in no hurry – that my excuse…
If anyone else is thinking of doing it then you might want to read about my experiences and observations.
1. Ensure that you remove the stabilizing ‘rod’ between the transmission and the body on the underside of the car – it runs back to front. During the belt change you’ll need to move the engine up and down and you’ll break this ‘rod’ if you don’t remove it.
2. Be warned that if you have A/C it’ll make the job harder as the pipes get in way big time especially when trying to undo the bolts to the inner engine mount.
3. The inner engine mount cannot be removed unless you remove the engine from the car or you remove the engine mount from the gear box end under the air filter which would allow you to move the engine laterally. Because of this engine mount you have to manipulate the old and new belt around the mount – a real knuckle rasper but it can be done with patients and care.

Whilst changing the timing belt and whilst in the general area it is well worth while changing the timing belt tensioner; the water pump; and the auxiliary drivebelt. You’ll also need to collect the coolant or replace with new. Make sure it is the genuine VW silicon based article (pink).

I bought a crankshaft locking tool (Laser tools 3241) which I was told was the right one – it wasn’t – at least it wasn’t right for my engine so don’t get that one for ASZ engines. I have yet to find the right one, so if know what the right one is please let me know for next time. It did fit and lock the crankshaft sprocket but not that well.

I used a Haynes Manual which was pretty good. When it says (on reassembly) make sure the camshaft locking pin (6mm drill bit) fits easily into the camshaft hub it means EASILY; nearly fitting is not good enough as your timing will be out (as I found out).

Oh yes, make sure you use a block of wood between the sump and your jack. You will be pumping the engine up and down like a yo-yo so make sure the wood fits well and won’t budge.
Hope this helps

[Rexer]

Hi mate, just thought id add my tupence worth

You can remove the whole engine mount from the car without taking out the engine BUT you do have to remove the water pump as i found out today on a 150 BORA

and i guarantee that your locking tool looks like it was half a tooth out at one end, to fit it slide it on do not try to put it on from the top of the pully, push it in and it will fit (again i found out this today lol)

The pin for the cam pulley does indeed need to be a good fit, i used the one that came with the kit (laser) but it needed a little fettle with some 1200 wet and dry as it was a little rough on the end and wouldn't fit, fits nice and tight now and when you torque the pulley bolt to 100/nm you dont want the bugger snapping off in the hole like a badly fitting drill bit would.......

Rex

[Crasher]

Firstly I must point out that tightening the pulley hub centre nut to 100Nm is only required when changing the cam or hub, not when changing the cam belt. Secondly I MUST point out a VW quote regarding the VW3359 (or its Laser equivalent) cam pulley locking pin

“Tighten hub securing bolt -1- to prescribed torque: 100 Nm, To do this, use counterhold -T10051”

In other words, the locking pin 3359 MUST NOT be used to counter hold the hub whilst tightening the bolt to 100Nm.

[Rexer]

Crasher, i know the way i did it was not ideal but sometimes you have to improvise. i could have used a screwdriver to jam the cam pulley but that would be a proper bodge

[Crasher]

The reason I warned was because if you snap the setting pin off in the head you are in a very poor situation. It was only a VAG recommendation I was quoting.

[Rexer]

Mate I was joking hence the massive smiley face, like I said not ideal but didn't have the fancy Vw tool job done an all's well

[Capability]

Rexer,
Thanks for the tip. It was a while ago now when I did the belt change. One of the biggest problems was not just the engine mount but the pipes associated with the A/C. From what I can remember you would have to lift the engine quite high in order to get access to the necessary bolts to remove the mount. You are exactly right about the locking tool - just about half a tooth out! Next time I do a belt change I will take your advise. Cheers.

[WOT]

There are two different crank pulley designs. One is round and one is slightly egg shaped. They both need different locking tools.

And always undo the 13mms on the cam pulley.

[Crasher]

I have never encountered the oval pulley on an ASZ engine, only on the later engines such as a BKC in a Golf 5. It is easy to tell if you have the wrong locking tool, they will not interchange.

[denz]

I have never encountered the oval pulley on an ASZ engine, only on the later engines such as a BKC in a Golf 5. It is easy to tell if you have the wrong locking tool, they will not interchange.

i agree its only the later 1,9 and 2.0 that have the "oval" crank locking tool cam belt replacement should take MAX 2 hrs, job with water pump ( which i recommend u replace ) 3 hrs max inc coolant bleeding .