Golf mk5 boot release fuse?

[cmi23]

Hi everyone,

The boot on my 2004 Golf MK5 won't open from the outside (works fine using the emergency release lever inside).

it looks like an electrical issue - the release latch isn't firing when the badge/handle is lifted - i've taken the reat trim away from the inside of the boot lid and the handle and latch both seem ok.

Does anyone know which fuse is used for the boot release mechanism and which panel it would be on?

BTW - the rear wiper and heated rear screen both still work fine.

thanks!

Mike

[Flash2]

I don't know what fuse supplies the actuator off the top of my head, but since you've already got the trim off, I'd check for 12Volts on the red wire at the actuator first. If there is 12V there then the fuse is OK.

Regards - Jim.

[Crasher]

The rear lid release motor is not fused as such, it is powered by the central convenience system which is itself fused so I would suggest a fault code read of the convenience system and if there are no appropriate codes, check the operation of the rear lid switch in Measuring Blocks and the release motor using Output Tests.

[Flash2]

The rear lid release motor is not fused as such, it is powered by the central convenience system which is itself fused.

In that case, we can assume that since all the other convenience functions are working correctly, the fuse is OK. I'd still check that your getting the 12V supply to the actuator since it wont work without it. And you've already got the tailgate trim off anyway. You don't need any fancy VW diagnostic equipment to test the actuator. Simply get a length of wire, connect one end to the vehicle body and touch the other end to the brown wire at the actuator. If it moves, it's OK. If not, I think you've just found your problem.

Jim.

[Crasher]

The release motor is a permanent earth (brown wire to pin 3 of the four pin connector) and a switched live (red/blue wire at pin 4)

[Flash2]

Thanks for the info, Crasher. I must admit to never having tested this circuit on a MK5 Golf. I know, you would never have known if I hadn't said.

So Mike wants to connect one end of his wire to a positive supply then and touch the other end to the red wire at the actuator. If it moves it's good, if not it's faulty. It's the same circuit, just the polarity is reversed.
He can pick up a positive supply at the rear wiper motor. What pin will that be on? I suspect that will be an ignition supply too, so he will need the ign. on to carry out the actuator test.

Jim.

[obs]

Flash you are Awesome!
I with this guide managed to remove the glovebox. Volkswagen Golf GTI Mk V Glove Box Removal (2006-2009) - Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

And your 12v trick pops the trunk open.
So CCM busted or wrong coded, that’s a putty.

Then I saw your picture. The person that had worked on this before had by force connected the trunk opening in the wrong port. Put it in the right port and, voila I got a working trunk.

The keyfob trunk button don’t work or does not work or what should it do? This is my first Golf so how should it work?

If you ever come to Stockholm, Sweden I owe you several cold ones!

Best regards to you and this awesome forum that helped me out!

// Johan

[Flash2]

Flash you are Awesome!

Wait 'til I go get the wife and show her that...LOL

your 12v trick pops the trunk open.

Excellent! Glad that worked for you.

Then I saw your picture. The person that had worked on this before had by force connected the trunk opening in the wrong port. Put it in the right port and, voila I got a working trunk.

RESULT!!

The keyfob trunk button don’t work or does not work or what should it do? This is my first Golf so how should it work?

It is probably working OK actually. That button doesn't release the tailgate, it just unlocks it so you can open it with the handle.

If you ever come to Stockholm, Sweden I owe you several cold ones!

If I'm ever heading there I'll be sure to let you know

Best regards to you and this awesome forum that helped me out!

Happy to help. That's why us techs hang out here.

All the best.
Jim.

[cyberboblouth]

Great thread and certainly helped me.

My issue seemed to be with the wiring between the rear pillar and boot latch, it doesn't help that the wires change colour when they go through the hidden connectors in the pillar either. Even stranger I had continuity according to the multi meter but I ended up running a new wire from the connector to the boot latch - I just patched it in and also left the original wire in place.

My steps:
1. Test latch by applying 12V to it on PIN 4 - she works!
2. Check for 12V signal being sent to PIN 4 when boot opened - NO Signal
3. Access the control module behind glove box and force a signal but putting the 12V down the cable - NO Signal at the latch
4. Run a temp. wire from control module output to the PIN 4 of the latch - she works!
5. Access the wiring loom the full length of the car, remove sheeth at certain points and try the latch (2 person job) - found it worked until I hit those connectors behind the rear pillar
6. Ran a single new wire from just before this connector the the PIN 4 of the latch connector - all working
7. Apply tape to new joints, put car back together, etc.

Hope this helps someone else.

[MPHTexas]

This thread is great. It helped me figure out that my daughter's latch works (it was getting current, sort of) and that I have a problem I haven't seen discussed anywhere on this thread or others. I started with the latch to see if it was getting a signal. At first, I saw no signal when I pushed in the outer handle. But since it was awkward to keep reaching over the hatch, I got lazy and just pushed down the metal contact plate from the inside. Bingo - I got a signal. And when I hooked everything up right, my latch opened. Then I had to figure out why it worked from the inside but not the outside.

When you push in the lift gate handle, it rotates a white plastic lever that pushes down on a thin metal contact plate that in turn pushes down a little plunger piece (sorry, I'm not a tech guy) into the micro-switch that fires a short electrical single that causes the latch to release. There are some videos online that show that the white plastic piece can get gunked up and stop rotating. The fix there is to just clean it up. Mine, however, is clean and rotates just fine. Sadly, I discovered that after 135k miles, the end of the little white plastic lever has worn away just enough so that the plunger doesn't go down far enough to activate the micro-switch. As far as I can tell, that white plastic piece is a $200+ part because it only comes as an integrated part of the liftgate handle mechanism.

Solution? I put a small nail under the metal contact plate and bent the end down so now the middle bows up slightly - right at the end of the white plastic lever's travel when you pull the liftgate handle open. In other words, the metal contact plate now goes down further near the end point, which is where the plunger is located.

Of course, as with any DIY solution, this did not come without a problem. It originally worked a couple of times and then stopped. I discovered that in creating the up-bow in the middle of the metal plate, I had bent the end too far down so it wasn't letting the plunger return to the fully open position. Apparently, once you open the latch, to trigger the switch again the plunger on the switch must first go back to the fully open position. It's a pretty delicate balance, so I'm hoping I won't have to remove the panel to fiddle with it every couple weeks.