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Thread: Turbo problem

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  1. Re: Turbo problem 
    #91
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    Great read. I'm having similiar problems but at higher revs / under heavier load. This thread helps to try and identify some of the areas of possible concern. My EGR valuve was very oily like the OP's. I replaced this along with the elbow intercooler pipe in the back of it, plus the main front intercooler pipe as that was perished and startting to split (but not right through yet). Also replaced most vacuum hoses, but slil have an overboost issue resulting in limp mode. I'm not sure if I should have flushed the intercooler, or if this is a sign the turbo seals are going. I also don't know if vacuum line to the EGR actuator is supposed to hold vacuum at idle, as it currently does not. If I operate the actuator rod by hand, the engine starts to stall. I therfore think the internal flap is supposed to be open at idle / lower revs and then clsed later in the rev range, but how do I tell? And how do I know if the solenoid telling it to apply cvacuum is actually working? I currently don't know if these all count to the same problem or are misleading in the overboost issue. Any ideas chaps?
    Mauritius Blue TDI Sport GmbH Avant | 35% Tint | Custom Remap by Awesome GTI - 180BHP - 450NM - Gone! | RS6's | Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics | RS 4 RARB | RS 4 Pedals | B7 Black Optic CatBack Twin Exhaust | HIDS
     
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  2. Re: Turbo problem 
    #92
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    Check the egr actuator by watching it when the engine is shut down - it should shut the flap off for a second then open it. If not, the diaphragm in the actuator is split (common) and leaking vacuum. Can't be bought seperately!! £144 odd for a new EGR. You can also attach a 3mm pipe to it - if you can blow/suck then the diaphragm is split. For a temp' fix until your wallet can stretch to a new egr remove the tube to the plastic actuator and blank it off with a bolt or similar. Now test drive and see if it was the problem.
    Some oil in the pipes/intercooler is normal.
    MAP sensor is a more common fault than the MAFF due to the oily air that blows past it.
    HTH.
     
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  3. Re: Turbo problem 
    #93
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    i have switched my egr off pretty much with vag com, think its running just enough to enable anti shudder to still work, as no decent system does a partial by pass without totally blocking off i saw it as the only option, passed my emmisions test today anyway it does smoke under full throttle but not a lot, can see a haze in whichever car thought he was quickers headlights at night anyway
    only things ive done to mine is replaced all vacuum pipes bar the larger n75 valve 4mm pipe and replaced/aquired new jubilee stainless hose clamps courtesy of perkins gas spec eninges water pump to thermo pipe clips, wider than normal and better quality aint a chance they are popping off, use them on 2000+hp 60 litre v16's
    Subaru broken, sold, Silver Seat Leon Cupra 180 '02' no cupra badge?
     
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  4. Re: Turbo problem 
    #94
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    Cheers for the advise guys. I'll check the EGR tonight when shutting down. EGR has been replaced now - damn tricky getting that last hex bolt off the inlet maniford, lol.

    I've checked the N75 hose? (the rubber one going to the tubro actuator) but that holds vacuum so didn't replace. Replaced most of the small rope covered ones, as some seemed a bit warn but not all the way through.
    Mauritius Blue TDI Sport GmbH Avant | 35% Tint | Custom Remap by Awesome GTI - 180BHP - 450NM - Gone! | RS6's | Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics | RS 4 RARB | RS 4 Pedals | B7 Black Optic CatBack Twin Exhaust | HIDS
     
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  5. Re: Turbo problem 
    #95
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    EGR actuator did suck in on shut down 2 seconds later popped back out, so I think it's all working as it should now. Thanks for the info
    Mauritius Blue TDI Sport GmbH Avant | 35% Tint | Custom Remap by Awesome GTI - 180BHP - 450NM - Gone! | RS6's | Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics | RS 4 RARB | RS 4 Pedals | B7 Black Optic CatBack Twin Exhaust | HIDS
     
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  6. Re: Turbo problem 
    #96
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    Thats working then. Must be either the MAP / sticky turbo vanes (can be cleaned) or a hidden vacuum leak then.
     
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  7. Re: Turbo problem 
    #97
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    Cheers CrazyP, I'll get there in the end. It's an annopying process in one respect. On the other hand I'm learning loads about the car
    Mauritius Blue TDI Sport GmbH Avant | 35% Tint | Custom Remap by Awesome GTI - 180BHP - 450NM - Gone! | RS6's | Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics | RS 4 RARB | RS 4 Pedals | B7 Black Optic CatBack Twin Exhaust | HIDS
     
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  8. Re: I have hiss too! 
    #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_bot View Post
    I have a 52 plate 130 TDI Sport Estate with 141,000 mile on it.

    I have had it from new and only had one problem previously. All sorted lurking here (Wet rear foot well from crap by pollen filter)

    Anyway, two days ago I had the whooshing of air that has been described here with the lack of power also. It happens about 1500-2000 RPM and has got louder and worse over the past few days (and 800 miles). It is constant when using the turbo not intermittent.

    Now when I drive it (with the turbo in) I get the noise (very loud with the window open) and it hesitates to deliver the power - almost like it is cutting out for a brief moment. Then loads of grey/black smoke out of the back and then off. The smoke disappears then.

    Anyway after reading this and a few other posts I tried to find the leak and the illusive L-pipe that always has the 4" split in it (where exactly is it!) as I am convinced it is an air leak.

    I took off the inter cooler's 90 degree pipe (the small one at the top) to look at the pipes below and they all looked OK. However the inside of the pipe was pretty oily/sludgy and around the housing that it goes into (whatever that is but chrisvrscrx has some pictures of it in an earlier post), that was oily too. As too was the connection down at the front bottom.

    As it is very loud I am assuming it is coming from a BIG pipe rather than the little vacuum hoses. Sound reasonable?

    Anyone fixed theirs yet?

    Maybe not related but when I start the car I get a lot of smoke out the back for about 20 seconds, then it is fine (well used to be before the whooshing/hiss). Sometimes it revs at about 1200 RPM when starting too before settling down and does it occasionally when idling (normal engine temp) too. Thought that might be the air flow meter.

    I service every 10,000 rather than variable by the way. I will read out the codes later and post them if they are of use.

    Thanks
    You have just described to the T what is happening to my own car...2003 audi a4 130 brake
     
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  9. Re: I have hiss too! 
    #99
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    Bodferret you need to put up the codes if you have them.
     
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  10. Re: Turbo problem 
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    Guys, my overboost problem has now been rectified .
    Took the car to 'a8 tech' from this forum on Saturday. Really nice chap and know's a great deal about the VW/ Audi's. My actuator was sticking a little and there was some play in the turbine. Wipped my turbo off, showed me the problem areas, put one of his spare turbos on (a very low mileage part) and all was well. Talked him through all the other niggles I had around the car and got loads of great advise. Even made me a cup of coffee . I won't say how much it cost me but it was an abolute steal.

    Really couldn't get the level of service, advise, reassurance, diagnostics, labour or parts individually for the price. Really top bloke and my motor has a new lease of life. I know he has another spare turbo and can offer a great deal of expertise and experience, so if any of you are quick enough you may be able to benefit as I did - send him a PM.
    Mauritius Blue TDI Sport GmbH Avant | 35% Tint | Custom Remap by Awesome GTI - 180BHP - 450NM - Gone! | RS6's | Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics | RS 4 RARB | RS 4 Pedals | B7 Black Optic CatBack Twin Exhaust | HIDS
     
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