Another Polo cutting out problem

[confusedvw]

The history.

Seemed to start after having water pump and cam belt changed.

Damp mornings, takes a long time to start, engine turns over but takes maybe a minute to catch and start.
Also temp warning light will flash unless I switch off and start again. Engine will start first time in this case.
Will start first time even if left all day and is damp.

Even in the snow and being left for three days the car started first time?

Today, started this evening and drove 100 yards and engine just cut out and will not start.
Checked, distributor turning, ok. Took HT lead from centre of distributor, turned engine over but no spark when held near engine block.

Any ideas

[kenney]

What is the engine code?

[confusedvw]

Thanks Kenney,

Where do I find this code, engine block or plate in engine bay? What sort of format will it be in, numbers letters?

Sorry for probably stupid question, if it doesn't start this morning I need to walk about a mile to where I left it last night.

[kenney]

The code is on a sticker on the timing belt cover,or a stcker under the spare wheel or in the service booklet,3 letters i.e AKL AZQ BAA you don't say what year so i have no idea what engine is fitted

[confusedvw]

OK,

Service book says
Type 6N1 0B4
Polo L233 GKATSG

Engine code AEV or could be AEW? DCD

Any of this help?

[kenney]

AEV it is then.With out a fault code read it is impossible to diagnose the fault,but the symptoms point to a defekt coil or the hall sender G40 in the distributor

[confusedvw]

Thanks for your help Kenney, I have sorted it!

I found elsewhere on the interweb thingy the reply to someone elses similar problem, I have put it in quotes below, it may help someone else.

How did I fix it?
Took the dis cap off and saw that it looked like the hall effect unit could be unscrewed, but first took the lead off and it was a bit dusty in there, so gave it a spray with DW40 and replaced it.

Then tried to measure the coil but ended up taking it off. Could only find connections 1,2 and 3 not 15 and could not get any ohm reading between the main HT connection and anywhere, so assumed it to be faulty.

For some reason I put it back on the car and tried the engine.
Started first turn of the key!!

My assumption is that the hall sensor connection was the problem, I tried the connection to the coil last night with no effect.

Hope this helps someone else.

Still confusedvw but happier now

Just in front of the distributor cap you will see two coolant temperature sensors. The black one is for the dash gauge, the blue one is for the E.C.U..

Take the plug off the BLUE one and measure the sensor's resistance.
It should read between 2k.ohms and 3 k.ohms when cold (20 deg.C.) and 280 ohms and 370 ohms at normal running temp. (80 deg. C.).
Dont run the car with the plug removed.

A faulty blue C.T.S. causes a lot of starting and running problems on the Polo, but they cost less than £10 from V.W. and are easy to fit yourself.

As Hilts says, next time the car fails to start check for a spark. Carry a spare spark plug to test with and a pair of insulated pliers or , preferably, a timing light or H.T. tester.
If there's no spark get the multi-meter out again and check the ignition coil.
The primary winding resistance ( between the nuts marked 1 and 15 on top of the coil) should be between 0.5 ohms and 1.5 ohms.
Pull the H.T. lead from the coil and measure the resistance between the connector in the coil and either of the nuts 1 or 15. It should be between 3k.ohm and 4k.ohm.

This is not a definitive test as the coil should also be checked under load, but the test would cost as much as a coil.
A new coil costs £20/£30 and is easy to fit


The hall effect sensor Hilts mentions will also cause loss of spark if it fails and yours does seem to have the same symptoms mine had. It seems when the car is stopped the heat rises and everything in the distributor gets baked.When mine started to fail it rapidly got worse.
I dont think there's any easy way to test the hall sensor

Apparently on some dizzies the hall sensor itself can be replaced but on mine ( a '94 Mk.3, 1043 c.c. AAU engine which I'm fairly sure was identical to your '93 model) the entire dizzy had to be replaced.Again an easy job to do but a bit more expensive.
Mine cost £92 'service exchange' four years ago from a V.W. dealership (the motor factors were marginally cheaper but didn't have any in stock and I was fed up going out in the car and coming home on the bus!!) and came complete with rotor arm and the proper screened dizzy cap.
Try GSF, Eurocarparts etc., but remember to allow for the cost of postage and insurance to send your old unit back, and be prepared to wait a while for the return of your surcharge.