Sticky Gunge on the inside of the widscreen

**Crasher** · 13-06-2009,07:32 PM

Chill out lad!

I was telling you what I do, not having a go. I don’t use leak stoppers as they are a bodge and I don’t bodge anything, there is a market for illegal drugs, doesn’t mean you should use them!

**NickPicks** · 15-06-2009,09:06 AM

I've used bars leaks to fix radiator leaks before, but if the matrix tends to burst catastrophically like Crasher says, then I'd also go with the genuine part option.

**DropKickMurphy** · 24-08-2009,08:19 PM

Mine is doing what Tsam's was and blowing oily watery stuff over the screen and in the footwells.

any idea on how long the dash removal job would take a pro? i assume this will cost a fortune to sort?

DKM

**Crasher** · 24-08-2009,08:59 PM

VW quote just under 4 and a half hours for the job which is hysterical, it takes about double that especially on a car with air con and if someone has been in there fitting alarms and stereos the whole job becomes deep joy.

**DropKickMurphy** · 25-08-2009,08:11 AM

thanks Crasher!

on the plus side its not got air con and the stereo falls out without any provocation but i dont fancy 8 or 9 hours labour charges and i know it'll take even longer for me to do it.

i'm going to try rad-weld tonight just in case (and i did read the bit about a 103 degree hand, foot and face wash!) and if there is no joy i will bypass the whole lot with copper pipe and jubilee clips. hopefully that'll do until i can afford the mechanic's labour charges to sort it properly.

i know its a bodge fix, but will the bypass idea work? obviously it will keep blowing gunk out until the HM is empty and i wont have any hot air come winter but is there anything i'm missing here?

thanks

DKM

**zollaf** · 25-08-2009,08:14 AM

bypassing will work. just remove the 2 pipes where they go into the bulkhead and join them. this will instantly cure it as the matrix will no longer be under pressure.

**DropKickMurphy** · 25-08-2009,08:22 AM

thanks Zollaf!

*runs down to the plumbing shop*

shoestring budgets ftw

**Crasher** · 25-08-2009,09:11 AM

Bridging it out will just make you cold but it must be a flow through bypass, not just blocked off, being cold is better than breathing antifreeze fumes. If the system is running blue antifreeze you will be breathing Ethylene glycol vapour and that is not a good thing,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol_poisoning

**jet** · 25-08-2009,09:37 AM

....just make sure the bypass is up to the job of the pressures in the system. (I'm sure you'll be well aware of this, but it's worth re-emphasising in case someone else reads it and decides to try the same fix).

**DropKickMurphy** · 25-08-2009,10:24 AM

i'm thinking of detaching the bottom rad hose and draining the coolant which is rank anyway, then detaching the two hoses from the heater matrix and feeding a 6" long copper pipe down the hoses to join them before securing the whole thing with jubilee clips - do you guys think this will be up to the job?

does anyone know the interior diameter of the heater matrix feed pipes? from looking at the outside i would guess at them being about 1 inch on the inside - does that sound about right?

and yes, the fumes are very unpleasant! i have had a sore throat for about a week from driving and my other half was complaining about feeling car sick on the way home from suffolk - that explains that one then... we did have the windows down and the sun roof open so hopefully it wont be too detrimental to our health.

once again, thankyou for all your help on this one guys

DKM