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Thread: Golf Mk4 GT TDI Rear Wheel Bearing

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  1. Golf Mk4 GT TDI Rear Wheel Bearing 
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    Morning guys

    How easy is it to change the rear wheel bearing on a MK4 GT TDI ? I've heard horror stories about the inner race getting stuck??

    Also, what sort of price are they and how much would it cost to get it done?

    Thnaks, all the best
    Tommi
     
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  2. Re: Golf Mk4 GT TDI Rear Wheel Bearing 
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    Tommi,

    On a Golf MK4/Bora the rear wheel bearing is a combined hub and bearing.

    Replacement is fairly straightforward, and as you pointed out removing the old bearing and inner race can pose a challenge.
    To tackle this I used a Clarke Bearing puller (for the hub) and separator (for the inner race) which removed the inner race quickly, simply and without any issues.

    This job is quite achievable for a competent DIY mechanic, but I would recommend a few tools;

    Main Tools required

    • 30mm 12 point Deep socket (e.g. Laser 3379)
    • Hub/Bearing puller and separator (e.g. Clarke CHT 249)
    • Brake calliper piston rewind tool (e.g. Laser 1314)
    • Impact screw driver (e.g. Clarke CHT 101)
    • Torque wrench capable of 175Nm
    • 1/2" driver breaker bar (i.e. 600 mm)


    Parts

    • Golf MK4 Rear wheel bearing kit [VW part number: 1J0.598.477] (must include ABS ring, 30mm 12 point hub nut, dust cap). Price ~£80 from Main dealer, ~£50 from ECP
    • Rear disc brake to hub nut [VW part number: N.106.483.01]
    • Guide pin bolts: 4 required [VW part number: WHT.003.250] (if removing guide pin bolts)


    Outline

    In outline (refer to a service manual for the exact procedure) the steps involved are;

    1) Jack up rear of car, support on axle stand(s), chock the rear and front wheel on the opposite side to the bearing being replaced.
    2) Remove rear wheel
    3) Remove the wheel bearing dust cap using a screw driver
    4) Using a 30mm 12 point deep socket and a long 1/2" drive breaker bar, slightly loosen (but do not remove) the hub nut, being careful not to topple the car.

    If the hub nut loosens without any danger of toppling the car proceed to step (5). Otherwise, if you have concerns about the car toppling try the following;

    4a) Put the rear wheel back on (with the wheel bearing dust cap still removed)
    4b) Lower the car fully back onto the ground.
    4c) Apply the handbrake
    4d) Chocks the rear wheels
    4e) Now try loosening (but not removing) the hub nut. A small (3 inch) extension may be required on the breaker bar.
    4f) Restart from step (1), but skipping step (4) now.

    At this point the hub nut should be loosened (but not removed).
    5) Release/lower the handbrake and remove handbrake cable from the rear brake (for improved access to the calliper).
    6) Remove brake calliper, brake pads (labelling the inner and outer pad upon removal) and calliper bracket.
    If necessary remove or loosen the guide pins (13mm and 15mm spanners).

    7) Remove brake disc (disc is screwed into the hub using a cross head screw/hex screw, and is likely to be seized, so an impact driver is useful at this point).

    8) Using the 1/2" breaker bar, then a 1/2" ratchet completely remove the hub nut.
    9) Setup the puller with arms configured to the hub diameter. If the puller is screw based (i.e. not hydraulic), oil the screw. Securely position a puller onto the hub, slowly and carefully wind in the puller, to pull the hub out.
    10) The inner race is likely to remain on the stub axle , perhaps also with the ABS ring.
    11) Remove the ABS ring if necessary
    12) Now setup the puller, with a bearing separator installed, and place the separator around the inner race, then tighten the separator securely around the inner race.
    13) Finally, using the puller and separator, pull out the inner race.
    14) You should be left with a bare stub axle.

    Installing the a new wheel bearing
    15) Clean the stub axle
    16) Mount the new wheel bearing on the stub axle, ensuring that it is centralised. Lubricate with a very small amount of grease.
    17) Gently tap the bearing onto the stub axle, covering the bearing with a small wooden block and using a hammer.
    18) Use VW tool 3420 (ordered from a main dealer), press the new bearing into the stub axle, taking care not to tilt the wheel bearing.
    If VW 3420 is not available, re-use the old 30mm hub nut to press the wheel bearing onto the stub axle.

    Remove VW 3420 or the old 30mm hub nut.

    19) Using the new 30mm 12 point hub nut (supplied in the bearing kit), tighten the hub nut to 175 Nm.
    DO NOT REUSE THE OLD 30mm HUB NUT. It is self locking and MUST be replaced

    20) Gently tap in the new dust cap supplied with the wheel bearing kit (again a small block of wood and a hammer), ensuring a water tight seal around the edges.
    21) Spin the bearing, ensuring that there are no unusual sounds or any roughness.

    Reinstalling brakes and wheel
    22) Replace the disc brake onto the hub, ideally replace the old disc to hub screw with N.106.483.01.

    23) Slowly open the rear calliper bleed nipple, (11mm spanner or 6 point deep socket). Using the calliper piston rewind tool, screw in the brake piston taking care with any brake fluid forced out from the bleed nipple, and ensure brake fluid level doesn't drop below min level.

    Close the bleed nipple, and top up brake fluid as required.

    24) Clean the brake pads and pad retaining springs. Replace the brake pads into their original inner/outer configuration.
    If the guide pin bolts were removed/loosened, apply thread lock to the bolts and tighten to 35 Nm. Strictly speaking the guide pin bolts should be replaced.

    25) Install the calliper bracket/brake carrier (8mm Allen key): 80 Nm
    26) Reattach the rear handbrake cable.
    27) Press the brake pedal a few time to ensure that the brake pads have settled back into the correct position and are operating correctly.
    28) Verify that the handbrake operates correctly.
    29) Mount the rear wheel, tightening wheel bolts to 110 Nm.
    30) Spin rear wheel to cross check smooth rotation, verifying bearing and brakes.

    31) Finally, remove axle stand(s), chocks and lower car.

    Before driving ensure that the brakes are sharp and responsive. If the brake pedal requires pumping, or requires more effort than normal the (rear) brakes require bleeding. Do not drive the car, until the (rear) brakes have been bled properly.

    TR7
     
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  3. Re: Golf Mk4 GT TDI Rear Wheel Bearing 
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    Brilliant post, will be very useful to follow when I need to change my bearings. Many thanks.
    2003 VW Golf Est 1.9 TDI 130 (gone but not forgotten after 379,000 miles)
    2006 Audi A3 2.0 TDI Sport 140
    2015 Audi A6 Avant 2.0 TDI ultra 190
     
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  4. Thumbs up Re: Golf Mk4 GT TDI Rear Wheel Bearing 
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    Herby,

    You're welcome, and I appreciate your thanks. .
    The previous post is an outline procedure of the steps involved, so I would still recommend a Golf MK4 service manual for full details.

    Regards,
    TR7
     
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  5. Thumbs up Re: Golf Mk4 GT TDI Rear Wheel Bearing 
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    Quote Originally Posted by tornadored7 View Post
    Herby,

    You're welcome, and I appreciate your thanks. .
    The previous post is an outline procedure of the steps involved, so I would still recommend a Golf MK4 service manual for full details.

    Regards,
    TR7
    TR7 - wow, what a post... many, many thanks. Quickly reading through it I'm sure I'm competent enough to do the bearing change but i'm questioning myself wether it's worth the hassle!!! (lazy I know...)

    One last point, is it worth doing both rears together??

    Thanks again
    Tommi
     
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