1994 Coupe 2.8 Quattro Ignition Fault

[Cornish_AL]

Hi all, I have just got hold of a 94 2.8 Coupe Quattro thats been stored and off-road for about 6 months.
The problem is when starting, nothing happens. Not even the usual rapid clicking of coil. Tested starter motor and it spins fine. Battery has been changed. Towed it up to 30mph and tried bumping - nothing!
I have noticed the ignition switch barrel doesn't feel quite right. Positions are not clearly defined and it's a bit sloppy and not much movement on the ignition click. But i thought the car should have bump started, even if this was at fault.
Looking for ideas as I dont have a clue what it could be, not even sure how immobiliser works or if this could be at fault. Any help greatly appreciated as i'm desperate to try this car on the road!
Thanks for your time, Alan

[kenney]

You need to have a fault code read

[scotty33]

Hi all, I have just got hold of a 94 2.8 Coupe Quattro thats been stored and off-road for about 6 months.
The problem is when starting, nothing happens. Not even the usual rapid clicking of coil. Tested starter motor and it spins fine. Battery has been changed. Towed it up to 30mph and tried bumping - nothing!
I have noticed the ignition switch barrel doesn't feel quite right. Positions are not clearly defined and it's a bit sloppy and not much movement on the ignition click. But i thought the car should have bump started, even if this was at fault.
Looking for ideas as I dont have a clue what it could be, not even sure how immobiliser works or if this could be at fault. Any help greatly appreciated as i'm desperate to try this car on the road!
Thanks for your time, Alan

Hi,

Sounds to me like the ignition barrel or switch is faulty. There is a 'blade' at the back of the barrel that engages into a slot on the switch itself. The return spring is on the switch. The vague feel to the switch suggests they are not engaged properly?
If you want to access the switch, it can be done by removing the shelf/panel under the dash, it may also help if you remove the instrument cluster for access from above.
The wiring plug pulls off with a firm tug, the switch unit has two 'wings' which slide into two forks on the lock carrier casting. these forks have two grub screws which secure the 'wings' in place, the screw heads have paint blobbed onto them so this needs to be scraped off before the screws can be undone. The switch should then slide out of the forks for you to check out the blade/slot arrangement.
The whole casting can be removed from the steering column, there is a rectangular 'hatch' on the opposite side of the column, if you remove the blanking plate from the hole there is a security torx screw that releases the casting from the column
If the blade is broken, the barrel can be removed by drilling a small hole in a specific place on the casting, this allows a retaining clip to be released. If you need these details let me know, I'll dig them out!?

[Cornish_AL]

Ok, update. Fit new ignition barrel and switch - same problem. Solenoid and starter motor definitely work, tested these. Its as if it's immobillised. Fuel pump doesn't sound like it runs, and no cranking and ignition. Does this model have an immobilliser? If so, how do you get around it? Lack of Haynes manual making this a real headache!
Thanks for your time, Alan.

[kenney]

Do you have an after market alarm fitted? and is it an auto gearbox?

[Cornish_AL]

it's manual, and there is a old clifford alarm system fit that "has never worked" to quote last owner. In-line fuses to that system were pulled which lead me to believe last owner. It's been joined into the wiring around ignition switch

[kenney]

Then that would be the first thing i would do,get rid of it, and connect the wires as they should be connected.