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Thread: To Forge 007P or not to Forge 007P

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  1. To Forge 007P or not to Forge 007P 
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    Hi,

    I thought this info might me of interest to a few people.

    I have a MK4 Golf GTi T (AGU/KO3). It had a Forge 007P and relocation kit, N75J and remap.

    I started having a load of problems where the car would cut out, and my ECU was logging a "low input/signal too low" MAF fault. Clear the fault, take it out, car would die again, and the same fault was logged.

    I had a load of stuff done at several garages (including new MAF, new breather hoses, new standard ECU, 4 new coilpacks, new ignition amp, cam timing, several throttle body cleans and adaptation, new N75J & N75F - and all VERY costly) and none of it made any difference. I contacted Forge saying I suspected the DV was the cause of the problem as I could hear a faint whistling (and this was now the only thing that stopped the car being completely standard), and to be fair, their customer service was very good. The sent me out a service kit. I serviced my DV, and still the problem persisted.

    Eventually, I had the Forge 007P and relocation kit removed, and the original standard diverter valve fitted back in the original location, and voila, the problem seems to have been resolved so far (thanks Crasher!). This indicates to me (even though yes, I know, the Forge007P is a very simple part and there's littled that can go wrong) that the fault MUST have been down to either the 007P itself or the relocation kit.

    So for anyone out there considering recirc valves, my personal opinion would be to advise folk not to bother, because it would seem as if it can somehow confuse the MAF and create problems. Whether this is down to the Forge part specifically or just recirc valves with the relocation kit in general, I don't know. Maybe the delay of air from the dv travelling back across the engine bay to the standard dv location could have something to do with it? (as it has to travel SO much further tan it would originally). Who knows. All I know is my problems were resolved by removing the valve and relocation kit.

    As i understand it, the valves are covered by a lifetime guarantee, so I will be contacting Forge in an attempt to get my money back.

    Many thanks

    Twign
     
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  2. Re: To Forge 007P or not to Forge 007P 
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    I am not sure it was the valve itself. When we bench tested it , it stuck on me one out of twenty odd times I tested it, but that is enough to upset the ECU. I think it is the relocation of the valve. I am looking forward to the re-read of the codes in two weeks to see if that AMM code comes back.
     
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  3. Re: To Forge 007P or not to Forge 007P 
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    Ayup mate!

    I had it in at VW yesterday for a free 1 hour diagnostic (long story - I was trying to get my MAF replaced under parts warranty - but they wouldn't have it until they saw for themselves that it was logging a MAF fault) and no fault was logged! And the car has been behaving itself since we took the DV off so.

    Thanks

    Twign
     
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  4. Re: To Forge 007P or not to Forge 007P 
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    Excellent, now you can start to think about getting some power back.
     
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  5. Re: To Forge 007P or not to Forge 007P 
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    Yes hopefully!

    I've also had the airbox replaced (it'd been drilled by a previous owner), as I could still here 'that whistling'... and it "seems" to be have cured it fingers crossed.

    So I'm going to run it all week to make sure all is well, and then I could possibly get my remap back on at the weekend. Only problem with that I won't be able to put my N75J back on after the work you did. =(

    There's definately a performance difference between the two valves. Whether the J gives you more boost at low revs but doesn't hold as long or something I don't know, but it takes definatley takes off noticeably quicker with the J valve fitted.

    Do you think you could re-do these wires for me crasher so I've got the extra length again in order to fit the J properly? Then with the remap I'll be back to somewhere like where I was before I started having all these problems.

    Thanks again

    Twign
     
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  6. Re: To Forge 007P or not to Forge 007P 
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    I can extend the cables (I will have to dig out some correct colour code cabling) so that it will easily reach the new position and then refit your old ECU and code it in, it will need to be coded in, as the immobiliser is now matched to the replacement ECU, you can’t just swap it over.
     
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