Door Courtesy Lights

[Woorlord]

I have one of the first B6 chassis SPORTS models reg. Sept 2001 - has the door red lights.

I did not have the Int. Light Pack but have retro-fitted the footwell lights front and rear (VAG-COM required) along with Ambient red LED lights in front roof light cluster.

I also noticed that my vent "white" icons and cup holder and coin tray icons did not light up. The vents had the leds but no wiring - simply remedied with a custom loom wired into dash illumination circuit. Purchased a newer Cup holder and coin tray off fleabay with the back illumination already present - with a couple more wires joined into dash illumination circuit.

Lit up like a Xmas tree now!

[kiptaylor]

These came standard on the SE and Sport models i thought?

Cheers

Rick

mine is one of the last sport-spec ones and annoyingly doesn't have them,my old '97 celica even had them and it was only the 1.8 st model

[kiptaylor]

I have one of the first B6 chassis SPORTS models reg. Sept 2001 - has the door red lights.

I did not have the Int. Light Pack but have retro-fitted the footwell lights front and rear (VAG-COM required) along with Ambient red LED lights in front roof light cluster.

I also noticed that my vent "white" icons and cup holder and coin tray icons did not light up. The vents had the leds but no wiring - simply remedied with a custom loom wired into dash illumination circuit. Purchased a newer Cup holder and coin tray off fleabay with the back illumination already present - with a couple more wires joined into dash illumination circuit.

Lit up like a Xmas tree now!

hey woorlord,
was this relatively simple to do?i wouldn't mind hooking up my vent icons.not so worried about the cupholder and cointray.any pointers on how to do it would be appreciated.
cheers, kip

[Woorlord]

hey woorlord,
was this relatively simple to do?i wouldn't mind hooking up my vent icons.not so worried about the cupholder and cointray.any pointers on how to do it would be appreciated.
cheers, kip

For easy access I took the glove box out (6 bolts), and cover between the steering wheel and pedals (2 bolts).

The Dash illumination uses a +12v variable voltage (dimmable) feed, I sourced this off the main light switch, pin 10 (brown) is 0v and pin 17 (grey/blue) is the var. 12v fedding all dash led lights.

The vents have a 2 pin male pin connector located on them which are 0.1" pitch. Now I could have sourced the correct polarised connector from Audi but this did seem a little bit unnecessary. I actually used a computer type connector typically used on PC motherboards which was very small and would fit in the existing Audi vent connector. The only caution was that it was not polarised - i.e. if connected the the wrong way round the illumination led would not light - remedy change the connector to the correct orinentation - leds should not be damaged.

I sourced parts from http://www.farnell.com
The connector housings (10x part no. 865606) and female pin inserts (100x part no, 1022219)
Approx. £6.60 plus P&P
I soldered the wires to the crimp pins.
1 housing per vent and 2 pins per vent.

Then it was just a simple case of feeding the wires to the 3 vent connection points, passenger side, twin vents above radio and drivers side and back to the light switch.

Now the centre vent connection when I did it was easier since I did this when I had the complete centre console out - I was doing a single to double din change at that time. Take a look first from the glovebox aperture as I seem to recall you can see the wires to the left side vent icon? The connector may have been above the radio between the two vents??

At each vent, I checked each connection as I made it for correct polarisation - lights on/off. If no illumination turn connector through 180 degrees. Best to use colour wires for connector to gauge orientation, i.e. black = 0v, Blue = +12v(var.)

I would recommend putting in a couple of spare illumination wires behind the coin holder and cup holder - you may have the illumination there ready to connect should you come across a replacement part off fleabay at a later date - that's what I did for these two later items.

Hope this helps.

[kiptaylor]

PHEW!
i know i asked for a few pointers, but you've practically done the job for me.............

nice one mate, sounds like i could tackle it no probs......

thanks again, kip

[tony_anon]

Woorlord,

Dare I ask: How did you do the footwell lights? Was the wiring already there?

Cheers,

Tony.

[Woorlord]

Woorlord,

Dare I ask: How did you do the footwell lights? Was the wiring already there?

Cheers,

Tony.

Now this is not as straight forward as the vent lights but very satisfying!
On my car there was nothing but the front FW light cut out holes!!

***Requires VAG-COM to recode the Convenience Module***

(FW=Footwell)

Misc. Parts used:

• light duty flexible Twin speaker cable (feed for each FW light)
• Misc. connection wire
• 4mm female crimp spade connectors (red)
• Misc. Male & Felmale crimp connectors (Blue type)
• Heat shrink (various sizes)
• Self Amalgamating Tape
• Electrical Test Meter DVM (Volts / Ohms / Diode Check / etc.)

Audi parts required:
8E0 947 113 A6 PS Rear Reatainer (x2) @ £6.42ea
8E0 947 101 Rear FW Light (x2) @ £6.35ea
3B0 947 415 B Front FW Light (x2) @ £5.90ea

I used the following Maplin parts to enable me to disconnect the FW lights at the various connection points near to the lights - again I could have sourced the correct Audi plugs and wires but this seemed an easier option at the time. These Maplin battery race plugs do the job fine and I positioned them close to exisiting Audi connectors and out of site. For the seat connections they are next to the airbag / heated seat connectors in the floor, for the glovebox panel it is adjacent to the glovebox wire connector, and the drivers side panel is near the diagnostic port connector.

Maplin Parts:
Part Description Qty.
===================================
JG05F Race Pk Lead Female 4
JG04E Race Pk Lead Male 4
Maplin Total £22.06

Car Items to remove.......

• Take the front seats out (Various trims + 4 bolts each)
• Take the glove box out (6 bolts)
• Take out the panel under the steering wheel above the pedals.

+12V Supply from Fuse box
The lights require a permanent +12v fused supply.
I managed to utilise a spare fuse slot in the fusebox and provide a dedicated feed using a larger physical fuse size - but still 5A.
(The wiring diagrams indicate S2(5A) as the correct fuse location but this is the small style fuse which I could not work out how to make a coonection too since the load side had no connector.)
This feed was routed back to the passenger side left kick panel

Front Seat lights for Rear Footwell lights:
Note - Airbag light will come on if you switch on ignition with seats disconnected - requires reset through VAG-COM.
Fit the retainer clips to the back of the seats. Make up a custom two wire loom and cable tie to under seat back to a Male Race lead connector. I integrated the new wires into exisiting hosing and utilised black heat shrink to make the cabling look factory fit. I used 4mm red female spade connectors to connec to the light units.Tip - normally you would crimp the connector parallel to the spade - rotate through 90 degrees and then crimp - you will then have room to slide this particular connector into the light male pins. I also heatshrunk the exposed metal of the spade connector for extra electrical safety.

At each seat connection point I positioned a female race pack connector and then routed this back to the passenger side left kick panel.

Front Footwell lights:
The light apertures are there to fit the lights in the Glove box panel and the under steering wheel cover. You may have to punch out the panel blank to expose the full rectangular hole and it may require a quick edge clean with a metal file.
Mount the lights and make up a wire loom utilising a race pack connector to enable panel removal - put the inline connector near the other panel connectors.

NOTE: The front Footwell lights are polarised with a diode so will only work one way - check which pin requires the 12V and 0V signals.

Route all footwell lights back to the passenger side left kick panel - you can make all your FINAL connections here behind the plastic connector mount panel.

TIP: once all the wires from all 4x FW lights are here - check they work with a battery - I used my 9.6v drill battery noting the (+) & (-) terminals for the front FW lights.

Convenience Module Connection:
(BE CAREFUL THIS IS A £220 module)
The convenience module (J393) is located under the front of the front left side of the passenger seat - getting access to this is the hardest part. You need to prop back the carpet. The Convenience module is located in a water tight box - pry the retaining clips open to gain access. You need to get four wires through the water tight seal to connect to the following connector pins of the convenience module. Pick out the rubber sealant and carefully push a small screwdriver through the wire seal - you should be able to push your 4 wires through - I pre-shrunk them as a loom with black heat shrink. Re-insert the rubber compund you picked out and then tape with self amalgamating tape to make water tight again.

Convenience Module J393 - Connector II
Pin 13 Front Right FW light
Pin 6 Front Left FW light
Pin 5 Rear Right FW light
Pin 14 Rear Left FW Light

The convenience module provides the switched 0v connection to your lights as and when each door is opened individually.

I used a 4mm red female spade connector with heatshrink over the exposed metal spade to connect to the convenience module Connector II for the 4 wires.

Final Connections: @ Left passenger Kick Panel
All the wires are routed to here.
Connect the relevant 0v side of the FW light to the above 4 wires in turn.
Connect the other side of the FW light to the new +12v supply.

VAG-COM Coding:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/...Comfort_System

Convenience Module: 46

Channel 061: Variant Reduction

• +1 = Mechanical Window Regulators in Rear (PR-4R5)
• +2 = Footwell Lights (PR-QQ1)

Note: Adaptation value is the sum of the individual options.

That should be it - Footwell lights - Close all doors and then check by opening each door in turn!

[tony_anon]

Wow! You certainly know your stuff!! Car electrician by any chance? I think I'll need quite a lot of time to attempt this. Thanks for the walk-through and list of materials needed. Think I'll get assistance from a mate whose into electronics. How long did it take you to do the FWs?

Cheers,

Tony

[Turbokiisseli]

Wow, thanks for an excellent guide! Pics would have been great, but I'll see about doing this soon and try to take some pics.

Probably the easier way to install FW lights is to take the feed from the roof lights, but the way you described is definitely very close to OEM and less "ghetto".

[Woorlord]

Wow, thanks for an excellent guide! Pics would have been great, but I'll see about doing this soon and try to take some pics.

Probably the easier way to install FW lights is to take the feed from the roof lights, but the way you described is definitely very close to OEM and less "ghetto".

Pictures.......
1. Convenience Module
2. Convenience Module close up - Connector II 2nd from right - vacant here
3. Kick Panel where I made all my connections in behind
4. Rear FW fitted to seat with seat out of car
5. Seat Connection showing male battery pack connector integrated into seat wiring loom

Took my time doing this retro-fit - over a weekend.