Golf mk2 16v (1990)

**paramananthamd** · 18-07-2008,11:14 AM

Hi everyone,
I have just bought a Golf mk2 16v and i am having an initial startup/ idle problem. I will try to explain the problem the best I can.

When i start the car in the morning, its start fine and idles ok. When i start driving and then dip the clutch or slow downor come to a stop the revs plummet to aroung 500 and the car sometimes stalls. Then when i try to restart it sometimes it takes a bit of time as it does not really want to start. The car idles pretty bad and the car shudders as if it wants to stall and the revs are low. But after just 2-3 minutes of driving everything is fine and drives/idles/revs like a dream.
This also happens if the car has been sitting around for over 5 hours, but its ok if the car has only been sitting around for a few hours. I thought it might be the cold start valve, but i have changed this and there was no improvement. I have also changed the ISV, and the temp sensors on the side of the head. but still no improvement. I have checked all vacumm hoses and everthing seems ok. Check all earth points/strap and they seem fine as well.
All the spark plugs/leads/rotor arm and dizzy cap are new(ish). I have noticed there is no dust cap or suppression cap on the dizzp cap. Will this cause a problem???
I am thinking about changing the WUR (warmup valve/regultor).
Will a naff ECU cause this problem.

I am sort of running out of ideas, all i can say is that i think its related when the car is coldish.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

**paramananthamd** · 18-07-2008,12:57 PM

Forgot to mention, the warm air hose that comes out of the bottom of the air filter box has a split at the end joining to the exaust manifold. Will this cause the problem I am having?

**Crasher** · 18-07-2008,01:08 PM

It just needs setting up to start with. I wrote an article for The Golf+ a few years ago on how to set up a KR engine. I have sent you a PM with my email so if you want a copy I can mail it to you.

**16v mad** · 23-07-2008,12:41 AM

dont replace the wur till you check it....take the h.t lead out the dizzy and earth it,disconect the plug from the wur and put a multimeter accross the wires,set to 20 on the dcv side of the multi meter,crank the engine and you should get 11.5v or more
then put the multi meter across the two terminals of the wur in resistance mode ( the setting with the dioed pic,from cold the wur should read between 20 and 26 ohms

having said all that i think the acumilator is at fault

**Crasher** · 23-07-2008,11:04 AM

That is only for the heater circuit of the Control Pressure Regulator (or Warm up Valve as VAG refer to it on their parts system, part number 035 133 403 G) but at £427.70 for a new VAG sourced unit (it is very difficult to source these elsewhere) I would certainly not suggest changing it without testing it. The test you mention is only for the heater circuit and that has very little effect on its function. The correct test is carried out with fuel pressure testing equipment where the control pressure is monitored from cold and the pressures noted plotted against time from start over temperature and the increase in pressure checked against a graph of how it should be. I find CPR failure is very rare but occasionally I find some suffering a vacuum leak internally.

Accumulator failure is almost unheard of and the accumulator only functions for starting. The only time I have to change accumulators is when they rust through or it is impossible to release the fuel pipes when overhauling the fuel delivery unit.

**16v mad** · 23-07-2008,04:30 PM

ok ill clear things up a bit,when i said how to check the wur,as crasher says thats just the heater side of it,to test properly yes you need a fuel guage,system pressure usually around 5.2 bar and wur at 3.2 bar,,and the accumilater holds pressuere to the fuel system i mentioned these as the first line on you post was initial start up and idle problem,and when you leave it for a few hours you have bad starting,thats what drew me to the two things i mentioned as mine did the same.fine on cld and then get the car warm after leaving it for 5 hours it was a swine to start and these were the two problems i had fixed and car was fine after that

**paramananthamd** · 26-07-2008,08:26 PM

Hi everyone,

I am still having this same problem. I did change the WUR for another one, but this made no improvement. I also changed the ECU and yet again no change.

I am starting to pull my hair out at the moment. :-(

I will try to explain the symptoms again.

When the car is cold (first thing in the morning) or being sitting around for over 5 hours, the car starts up fine with no problems and idles ok, but then after about 30 seconds the revs drop to about 600 and the car starts to misfire and idle bad. Its like if the car wants to cut out. If i drive and dip the clutch the revs plummet to about 150revs and then comes up to about 700. the car also shudders. While driving it, its like the car sort of lacks power and bogs down, but then after only a few minutes (once the engine is a tiny bit warm) all these symptons go away.

Crasher sent me a article on setting up/tuning a KR 16v engine. I have read all this but i am not to sure if its needs a tune up cuz it runs perfect when its warmed up.

I have noticed that there is no dust cap or suppression cap on the distributor cap. Does this matter?
I also looked at the plug to the hall sender and it looks a bit oily. Will this cause the problems.

What do you guys recommend i should do/look at next. Do you think a tune up will be good idea. Obviously I cannot do a tune up myself as for one i do not have the right equipment. Do you think any garage will be able to do this. I Would love to take it to Crashers place but its in Nottingham and i live near bath so thats out of the question. Does anyone know any good garages around the Bath area that know about these cars.

Thanks a lot guys for your help so far.

**16v mad** · 26-07-2008,09:19 PM

if money is no issue then yes for definate have it set up and explain this to the person who will be tuning it,chances are he'll fix it in the tuning sesion
i think to me tho it doesnt sound like an ign problem,i think its still something to do with wur, csv, or ttv,if it was the isv it would do it all the time so its realy just on initial start up,did you do the wur test i showd you,its ok replacing things but you need to check the wiring too,are all the pars you fit i.e csv and wur all new or second hand,i very much doubt the fei or what most ppl call an ecu(which is ifact not an ecu on 16v's as it only controles the spark rate and timing rate)will have anything to do with it

**Crasher** · 26-07-2008,10:42 PM

It strikes me that you may have a problem with the engine ECU coolant temperature sender on the side of the head. Do you own a multimeter? Refer to my article on page 5 for the checking procedure.

**paramananthamd** · 27-07-2008,03:27 PM

Where is the ECU temp sensor, there are 3/4 sensors on the side of the head. One nearest to the front at the top or the one nearest to the back at the top. I have noticed that one of these sensors coolant comes out when you undo it. The other one doesnt. Which one of these is it?
cheers guys