CVT /Multitronic confusion

[norbet]

Hey guys new hear so please be gentle if it's repeatedly been answered.
I've seen a lot of bad press about the CVT box and I'm confused as to whether an ATF change is recommended or not. I've seen posts that suggest change every 40k - others stating the box is an oil for life set up. Question is what should I do - leave it or change it?

The car drives fine once going, but 1st thing in the morning when cold it takes some revving to get moving and occasionally rolls forward before picking up the slack. No dashboard errors as such and as I say other than initial 1st thing it drives great.
Does this sound like something a fluid change could sort?
I'm normally capable of straightforward DIY and basic servicing, but I suspect a change of transmission fluid on this type of box is a little more involved - as such can anyone recommend a suitable place in North/West Yorks that knows what they're doing? What sort of money should I be expecting to part with?

Cheers
Norbet

A6 119k 2.5 V6 TDi Multichronic 2003

[fruitbat]

It's likely it's not the actual box. You need to search on here for Dual Mass Flywheel as you have described its classic failure symptoms. I believe Audi have paid for 7-plate clutch mods in some cases, but your age of car and mileage it would be an optimistic hope.

Unfortunately this will only help the next DMF, if this is your problem it is on the way out. What happens is that the heat generated by the unmodded clutch damages the bonding agent holding the DMF together and I'm afraid the only solution is a new one and I have seen bills for £1500 mentioned. Sorry.

So it's not the oil but if you haven't changed it before 119k miles I think you should be thinking about it, IMO it's not a diy task as you need special kit and (I think) run it in hot, at pressure, or a certain speed.

An independent audi service centre would cut a lot of cost out your situation since there is a significant amount of labour in there, and at Audi's £100 per hour it starts to mount.

[norbet]

It's likely it's not the actual box. You need to search on here for Dual Mass Flywheel as you have described its classic failure symptoms. I believe Audi have paid for 7-plate clutch mods in some cases, but your age of car and mileage it would be an optimistic hope.

Unfortunately this will only help the next DMF, if this is your problem it is on the way out. What happens is that the heat generated by the unmodded clutch damages the bonding agent holding the DMF together and I'm afraid the only solution is a new one and I have seen bills for £1500 mentioned. Sorry.

So it's not the oil but if you haven't changed it before 119k miles I think you should be thinking about it, IMO it's not a diy task as you need special kit and (I think) run it in hot, at pressure, or a certain speed.

An independent audi service centre would cut a lot of cost out your situation since there is a significant amount of labour in there, and at Audi's £100 per hour it starts to mount.

Thanks for the advice fruitbat - it has a FSH and it appears that the fluid has been changed in the past - last time at 83k - sounds like it could do with another soon. I've searched on the DMF problem which appear to be mainly concerned with manuals and incurring vibrations and judder on acceleration - I'm not getting that just yet - it's more like the engine is having to work that little bit harder to get the car moving at 1st start up in the morning - esp as it's reversing on a slight incline - does that indicate a DMF problem if there's no vibrations or judder?

If as you fear the worst - can anyone recommend a good place to take it to in North/West Yorks?

Norbet

[fruitbat]

Of course your right. I'm a ****. looked at the problem and forgot about the crucial Multitronic keyword.

[paul b]

I would reccommend you change the ATF and the ATF filter. I haven't done this myself, my car is a manual. However, from past experience I would reccommend you send it somewhere reputable to have the job done, because you only need the slightest bit of muck in the ATF and you have ruined your gearbox. Then it would be worse than before!

Paul

[norbet]

Thanks for the replies folks - as per previous threads, recommendations for somewhere reputable for the fluid change. I'd like to avoid main dealer prices if possible but from the research I've done so far the costly part is the fluid itself.
Can anyone recommend a good independent in the North (Yorkshire if possible)?

[norbet]

The confusion continues - have spoken to two places in Yorkshire - one said yup £120 +VAT for fluid change - the other said changing the fluid would result in problems (juddering) and recommended I not have it done (well actually said they'd prefer not to touch it).

Any thoughts?

[Crasher]

I would recommend a fluid change and also the filter but the bad news is that to correctly purge the system and change the filter can cost around £450 as a purged system requires 7 litres of the special CVT fluid at £10 a litre and the filter is around £200 and is very time consuming to fit. Those that say changing the fluid causes problems are the ones who don’t know how to do it and who don’t have the equipment to pump the fluid in. If changing the fluid doesn’t help, you are looking at an exchange box. A quick fluid change takes about five litres of fluid and (once it has cooled right down) takes about an hour.