Lack of power on 1.8 turbo petrol

[minty0_10]

take the outlet pipe off the turbo think you,l have to remove the air box stick your finger inside and see if theres any play in the impeller shaft.
also leave the car run for a while when hot and see if theres any smoke when reved

[md1980]

but dont put your fingers in when its running

[minty0_10]

but dont put your fingers in when its running

or lol

[The Stagg]

...Hi, I haven't been able to check the impeller shaft yet, but i'm pretty sure there is no smoke when i rev the engine when it is warm, My friend seemed suprised that when we removed an air pipe from the front of the turbo the car stalled. He didn't think it should. There was also quite a lot of oil in this pipe. I spoke to someone today who implied that even if it were a problem with the wastegate, I may still need a new turbo, as the fault may be at the wastegate end which would mean it wouldn't make any difference replacing the actuator ( I believe you can buy this seperately?)
Surely the wastegate should only open under load?...just revving it slightly shouldn't cause the shaft to move and vibrate should it? I'm not keen to take it anywhere yet, as I've already spent £400 following the main dealers advice and this has got me nowhere!

[minty0_10]

i think im right in saying that if theres is oil in the pipes then the chances are the seals in the turbo are leeking. but there again there is quiet a bit of oil in the turbo inlet pipe on my tdi and that still go,s well.

onther way of finding out is to find a long steep hill and keep it in say 3rd/4th gear when you get to the bottem put your foot down hard and see if theres any excessive smoke for a few seconds this will be the oil burning off thats leaked past the turbo seals.

it could also be worn valve stem seals coman on old fords.

[dc1]

Hi, I've got a 100k 1998 1.8t 20v and these are the problems I,ve had and the solutions,

1. Cambelt snapped, what I did:- re-con head using exsisting cams and chain and tensioner, lifters etc (exc old valves), the rattle which sounds the same as yours is the tensioner, they get a little slacker in there old age but it's not been a problem just i bit noisy.
2. Turbo seal and shaft bearing gone (turbine and shaft knackerd and it took 2 weeks to burn the oil out of the cat converter), more smoke than a steam engine when engine was running, what i did:- re-con turbo and gasket etc and act'er set at 7 psi (£250). One problem that I had was the actuator vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold was perished at differanat places along the pipe, so completely replaced, this might be a problem on yours to.
3. Oil pressure light coming on every now and then, what i did:- This is a common fault on this model around 80k onwards. did a couple of engine flushes and 5 oil changes and the problem went away for a week after the oil changes but then came back again, happened about once/twice (some times more) a journey. On this model the pressure reg valve inside the pump sticks and you lose oil pressure (there is still some there and you can drive gently but time is not on your side) the best thing to do is, pull over and switch off the engine wait a couple of seconds and restart this normal unsticks the valve and you will/should get the pressure back. the only fix is to change the pump (£100+ for the pump and £100+ for the fitting, it's a couple of hours job). this is a cheaper option that replacing the engine went it siezes.

Hope this helps.

[dc1]

See above, the tensioner being the rear chain tensioner.

The dump valves on these can leak too, causing a lack of boost pressure.

[passat boy]

some early passats suffered siezed engines from using(vw recommended)standard oil,synthetic must be used with all audi/passat engines with turbo's and as a rule all standard non turbo engines.failure to do so leads the oil to harden into a greasy paste(remove your oilcap and put your finger in and feelaround for greasy gritty blackish gunk).if your oil light has been on once then it sounds like trouble on the way.if the oil was not synthetic at service intervals or the car was driven hard your problem could be worn turbo or slack internal timing chain(twin cam).vw lt35's ive known do what you describe with a horrid screech and after a steady idle for 3 minutes it would go away, poor oil change intervals was the problem.only checks to do are:2 vacuum pipes on front right top of engine(one goes to dump valve) remove throttlebody intake pipe(thick bugger)and check it's all clean(never spray carb or injector cleaner into throttle body as fluid washes factory grease out of throttle bushes accelerating wear rapidly) wipe out with a lint free rag.replace your petrol filter as suggested earlier.lastly,remove the undertray and with the car idling listen for the source of the noise you hear and use caution and keep someone nearby to assist you.

[The Stagg]

..Apologies for being a timewaster. It turns out that the warning light which looks like a flashing red thermometer (which is the same as the water temp gauge above it) is actually a water temp gauge ! I don't have an owners manual, but I can't think why i'd got it in to my head that this was an oil pressure gauge, I MUST have seen something somewhere to make me think that. TW*T! ...Still, its good news tho, a coolant top up will solve that. It also explains why its only been coming on on cold mornings...

[passat boy]

..Apologies for being a timewaster. It turns out that the warning light which looks like a flashing red thermometer (which is the same as the water temp gauge above it) is actually a water temp gauge ! I don't have an owners manual, but I can't think why i'd got it in to my head that this was an oil pressure gauge, I MUST have seen something somewhere to make me think that. TW*T! ...Still, its good news tho, a coolant top up will solve that. It also explains why its only been coming on on cold mornings...

Do you require a user manual Stagg? i got one from a american site for free but as it's 300 pages it's best to download and some little bits differ but it's mainly cosmetic bits like swithches or the keyfob.

Passat boy