Dash warning llights

[Grover2000]

Severe Warning Symbols

If one of these red symbols lights up while you are driving, stop the car, switch off the engine, and refer to the Owner's Manual.
Fault in brake system Fault in cooling system Engine oil pressure too low Tire pressure too low Other Warning Symbols

No faults detected Brake light faulty Bulb failure: dipped headlights or rear lights Brake pads worn Washer fluid level low Fuel level low Battery voltage too high or too low Check engine oil level Engine oil sensor faulty Speed warning 1 or 2 (km/h or mph) Dynamic headlight range control faulty Check tire pressure Door or tailgate open
This is just for information. (This is not my work its from another website)

Admin - If this is not usefull please delete this.

Thank you

Grover

[lucianus]

hi. thanx for the info. what do you do when the engine oil pressure lights up but the oil level is correct? i just got the engine oil changed at a garage and now i get that warning every 5-6 miles. the light comes on for about 5-6 seconds and then it goes off. this is really annoying!

[darkhorse1001]

lucianus, you need to get that checked out pronto, your looking at blowing a turbo if not. see https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...pressure+turbo

[lucianus]

thanx for the advice. i took the car to a local audi dealer and they told me that i need a new oil pump ! the price was astronomical so i said no thank you. i don't understand how or why i need a new oil pump because 1 week ago the car was working just fine. hmm maybe it has something to do with the oil change that was done 4 days ago... now i have to find a good and cheap oil pump. can you or someone please help me find one at a decent price? i will gladly get you all guys a couple of beers



oh and another thing... what can i do if i put too much oil in by mistake... i mean the oil level is above max with like 3mm
.
.
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[darkhorse1001]

the excess oil:drain it out of the sump, or get a pump to suck it up through the dipstick guide tube.

the other issue, i have not dealt with this directly but read up a great deal on the subject as i was in the market for a 1.8T a few weeks ago.

Do you know if when the oil was changed, whether the garage drained it through the base of the sump, or whether they sucked it out of the dipstick? i believe with this engine it is essential to drain from the sump as this removes the most of the foreign debris in the old oil. (worth checking next time you take it in for an oil change)

the problem with the oil pressure is this, (or at least in the most common cases it is) the pump sucks the oil form the sump, and pumps it up to the top of the engine where it drains past the components it needs to lubricate, and then back down to the sump. cycle complete.

the part of the pump that first sucks the oil from the sump (the 'pick up') has a crude filter (really a coarse wire mesh) to stop any foreign debris being picked up and pumped to the top of the engine, where it could cause damage to the more delicate components in the cylinder head.

the problem is if the old oil is always pumped out through the dipstick, debris collects in the sump and blocks the pickup, hence the drop in oil pressure. OR, that the pickup gets blocked with carbon deposits from infrequent oil changes, or using the wrong grade oil. Either way, the pick up is the problem, not nesecarily the whole pump.

replacing the pump is a time consuming process, the whole sump has to come off, new gaskets, the engine subframe has to be partially removed.... this is where the cost of the job lies. as you a re paying for so much labour it makes sense to replace the pump, rather than just clean out the pickup only to find the pump fails later.

however, frequent oil changes and engine flushing can reverse the problem, although using flushing agents has its critics, and has been known to cause problems such as oil seals leaking.

once the problem is solved (either way) start changing your oil every 5000 miles instead of at every 10000 mile service and make sure that the oil you use is a good quality synthetic that meets or exceeds the audi spec.

i hope this helps you get to grips with the problem, and as for the price you were quoted from audi, well thats the most expensive path you could have chosen. try finding a good local independant and you should see a sharp drop in the price of getting a new pump fitted. if you really cant go down that route, have a look at flushing it out.....

[lucianus]

thank you very much for your reply and i do hope i will find an independent garage with some decent prices. i hope it's not a big problem because i realy love my car and i would like to keep her for as much time as i can. i spoke with a friend that has a friend who's a mechanic and he said that he would take a look at the car next week. now i don't know the exact condition of the car but i will have to drive it like 30 mins to that guy's house. do you think it's safe to drive it without risking to kill the engine or other parts?
thanx alot for your info. much appreciate

[darkhorse1001]

well your not looking at an immediate failure, but its not advised to go on using the car when you know it has a fault. you may not suffer immediate problems, but you will more than likely take 10s of 000s of miles off the life of the turbo/rings/bearings if they are not being lubricated properly.

[jkay2008]

I would get a decent oil filter and the proper grade oil and change it again, to make sure what the garage used was correct.

[mitchellni]

Severe Warning Symbols

If one of these red symbols lights up while you are driving, stop the car, switch off the engine, and refer to the Owner's Manual.
Fault in brake system Fault in cooling system Engine oil pressure too low Tire pressure too low Other Warning Symbols

No faults detected Brake light faulty Bulb failure: dipped headlights or rear lights Brake pads worn Washer fluid level low Fuel level low Battery voltage too high or too low Check engine oil level Engine oil sensor faulty Speed warning 1 or 2 (km/h or mph) Dynamic headlight range control faulty Check tire pressure Door or tailgate open
This is just for information. (This is not my work its from another website)

Admin - If this is not usefull please delete this.

Thank you

Grover

Excellent info

Anyone have an idea why I'd get the brake light fault flash up every now and then ? not looked but could it be as simple as a loose connection/bulb all bulbs are working ok

Cheers

[Grover2000]

If its the orange light that looks like the brake light its you pads which are either worn (if so get them changed) or there is a fault with the wiring on the pads (when you turn either left or right might cause the brake pad warming light to illuminate intermitantly).


Hope this helps

Grover