1.8T Carbon Deposits

[perfection]

I posted this question in the wrong place so am reposting it here, apologies if it has been asked before, but I couldn't find it.
I have been told that the 1.8T is prone to carbon deposits in the sump which blocks the oil pump pick up and destroys the engine and turbo. (thanks to Crasher for this )
I have yet to buy the car I'm after, but I've been very impressed by what I've read and heard about the 1.8T so I am really just trying to 'knowledge' up before I go hunting.

Is there any evidence of this prior to the aforementioned destruction?

I will be careful to ensure it has a full service history, which would hopefully mean that the oil changes would have been carried out at the right intervals. Would this be enough to remove any deposits that may have build up over time?

[pgarner]

unfortunately not ive read up on other forums that cars even with 3000mile oil changes are showing up with sludge in the sump.

Advise for the engine was to use high quality oil and check / change it regularly (i do mine every 6000 even using long life oil ) and if the oil light come on stop immediately and get it to a garage for a full flush.

i think the problem with the engine is that the oil in the turbo runs very hot and people are switching the engine off without letting the oil cool down. the oil them just gets too hot and starts to break down causing it to sludge.
Sludge and the carbon deposits are the same thing
have a look at
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_b...tml#blackdeath
for more info

[Crasher]

I am trying to stop this happening again on my VRS (new engine and turbo were required) by using VW Longlife III oil and changing it every 6K. Also, after a run I don't shut the engine down for around a minute, just to let the turbo cool down. It is nowhere near as big a problem on the transverse engine Golf 4/A3/Leon/Octavia etc as it is on the longitudinal engine Passatt/A4.

Unfortunately there is no real clue it is going to happen without the light coming on or pulling the sump and cam cover off to see if the engine is coked up inside.

[perfection]

Thanks for the info, the engine oil bible pages were of particular interest.

I guess its just a case of hoping i get a good'un, and if after I can get a good look into the cams and it's coked up then just give it a flush and cross my fingers!

I vaguely remember reading about letting a turbo engine warm up before driving and cooling down aftwards (although I thought it was more to protect the turbo) - will definitely get into that habit .

[pgarner]

yeah i was told to let all cars run for around 30seconds to allow oil to circulate then drive off. and allow the oil to cool to around 85-90(o)C. hense the reason i fitted the gauges

[pgarner]

I am trying to stop this happening again on my VRS (new engine and turbo were required) by using VW Longlife III oil and changing it every 6K. Also, after a run I don't shut the engine down for around a minute, just to let the turbo cool down. It is nowhere near as big a problem on the transverse engine Golf 4/A3/Leon/Octavia etc as it is on the longitudinal engine Passatt/A4.

Unfortunately there is no real clue it is going to happen without the light coming on or pulling the sump and cam cover off to see if the engine is coked up inside.

how much did the new engine and turbo cost you in total ?

im doing the same using long life, 25k miles. however i did notice some on the back which was interesting reading. it was 25k miles for normal driving or 15k under harsh conditions which included turbo charged cars. but still im aiming to keep it around 5 - 6k for changes

so much for bullet proof engines ehh

[Crasher]

The engine is now £2163.50 and the turbo is £566.50, both including VAT. There were lots of other parts required such as clutch/DMF, AMM, N75 valve, turbo oil and water pipes, filters, gaskets, fasteners, intercooler, fluids etc.

[pgarner]

so looking at around £3k before labour
better keep a closer eye than i originally was going to

[Crasher]

I spent £5k getting the car back on the road but that was including four tyres, front anti roll bar, top mounts, N75 valve and lots more. I have just had to order two front dampers today, genuine as well-no one seems to do VRS front dampers except Monroe and they are out of stock.