having problems with matching keys on ecu / tacho

[turbobugger]

I tryed using vag tacho 2.2

I read my ecu pin code
Then I tryed to write my tacho pin code but I get response INVALID CODE
I do not get the option to read my tacho pin code

I am positive the 2 do not match.

I have ross-tech software and dongle too.

Please help if you know how to match up the keys

[ini]

To match the 'remote' for central locking on a delocked 00 Beetle. (not matching the immob)

You may also want to clear any existing keys first by:
(from Rosstech) http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...-matching.html

[Select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car)

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter channel "00"

[Read]

[Save]

When the prompt asks if you are sure you want to save a value of 0 to Channel 00, click [Yes]

After doing so, no remotes will be matched. You'll need to follow the appropriate procedure to match all of the remotes.



Then match your remotes


Procedure for matching radio-frequency remote controls to many VW & Audi vehicles:

Check the Ross-Tech Wiki under Diagnostic Procedures for instructions specific to your vehicle.

Gather ALL the remotes you would like to match. Insert one key in the ignition and turn it ON.

[Select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter channel "01" (May be channel "21" in some Audi models).

[Read]

This will display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value".

Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4(including any existing keys) in "New Value"

[Test]

Verify that the number in "Test Value" is correct.

[Save]

Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob, at which time it will be learned. If you're programming more than one fob press and hold the UNLOCK button on the second fob for one second, press and hold the UNLOCK button on the third fob for one second, etc. You have a total of 15 seconds to do them all.

The car may give you some sort of acknowledgement as each key is learned (lights flash, horn beep, etc.)

If the above procedure does not work (neither Channel 01 nor Channel 21 are available), follow this procedure:

Insert a working (old) key in the ignition and turn to the ON position (do not start car).

[Select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)

[Meas. Blocks - 08]

Enter group "003" (may be group "007" in some vehicles)

[Go!]

The value in field 2 shows how many remotes have been matched and in which memory positions (for example, "0001" indicates 1 transmitter in position 1).

Lock the car from outside using the new, unmatched key in the driver-side door lock.

Press the UNLOCK button on the new key within 5 seconds often enough to reach next memory position (so, if the value in field 2 was 0001, you should press the new key's unlock button twice, to put the new key in memory position 2)..

The car may give you some sort of acknowledgement as the button is pressed (lights flash, horn beep, etc.)

Wait 5 seconds and press the unlock button on the new key to unlock the door.

Turn the ignition key to OFF and remove the old key.

Press LOCK and UNLOCK with the new key.

Insert the new key in the ignition and turn to the ON position (do not start car).

[Select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)

[Meas. Blocks - 08]

Enter group "003"

[Go!]

The value in field 2 should now indicate 0011 in the example used, showing the old key still matched in position 1 and the new key matched in position 2.

Make sure that new keys are always coded into free memory positions (where there is a zero in Group 003, field 2). If occupied positions (distinguishable by a "1") are used, the transmitter previously coded to this position will no longer work.

[turbobugger]

Wow Thanks! I will try that! I bet that was all on the Ross-Tech website wasn't IT? I need to read read read read read.

[Uwe@Ross-Tech]

Indeed, that does look rather like it was copied and pasted directly from our site.

In fact, common courtesy would indicate citing the source. In fact, posting a link back to the source would have the practical advantage of allowing people who read that at some point in the future to see if the source information has been updated, something we do with some regularity.

-Uwe-

[ini]

It does state at the top of the post that it is (from Ross-tech) with the link to the page?

[turbobugger]

Thanks INI for the post!

Obviously, I think you were just trying to help!

[Uwe@Ross-Tech]

And apparently I should read more carefully myself sometimes. Not sure how I overlooked the link. I suppose I was looking for it at the bottom (which is a more usual place for source citation).

Sorry about that.

-Uwe-

[ini]

No problem Uwe.

[turbobugger]

I finally got mine fixed. I sent my ecu and cluster in to this guy. mrfixitfast777@yahoo.com
When I got them back, I plugged the ecu and cluster back in and it works perfect now