Damaged Passat 1.9TDI PD 130bhp Engine Block. A Long'ish Post.

[Studio54]

Hello all, my first post and it’s a costly one :0(

I’m not a mechanic in any sense of the word so I’ll describe my problem as best as I can.

I have a Passat 1.9 TDI 130bhp PD, 51 Plate.
I bought the car 2nd hand 3 years ago with 66K on the clock, the clock now reads 80K, and I’ve hardly used the car.

The trader I bought the car off had just changed the timing belt and I did a full AA inspection before buying it just to be on the safe side.
The AA engineer passed the car with flying colours.

On Thursday, the engine started making a ‘tapping’ sound.
The higher the revs, the more noticeable the ‘tapping’, when idle or driving.

I knew the engine was seriously ill.

I took the car to my mechanic the next morning.
To cut a long story short, my mechanic had in idea as to what was wrong and opened the engine up.

On opening it, it became apparent the one of the hydraulic tappets had shattered.
(I looked in my Haynes manual to confirm the name of the part that has broken).
The part that shattered is slightly larger than a 10p coin in diameter and slightly thicker in depth, but it was heavier than it looks and was surprised it had broken due to the weight of it.
Above this disk sits the camshaft….I think.

The broken part fits onto on top of a cylinder about 3 to 4 cm in depth that is buried into a bore in the top part of the engine block, I counted 8 bores in total.
This cylinder part has now become stuck in the block and my mechanic was not able to pull it out and it looked like there was damage around the bore
circumference.

I have been told that I need a new head at a cost of £1300 ex VAT from VW which includes new injectors, tappets etc.
With all the new parts involved with the repair, new gaskets, water pump, timing belt, labour etc, my mechanic has warned me that the bill is likely to reach just below £2500.

VW are surprised with this engine fault and have told my mechanic that they’ve never had to sell this top engine block before and have not heard of such a failure.

I am just curious to see weather anybody else has had or known of a same failure or is it simply down to bad luck?

Is this block repairable in anyway or should I simply get a brand new block?
Although cost is a major issue, I would like the job done properly and wouldn’t welcome future surprises like this again if possible.
I have been told that the lower, piston area of the engine is fine.

I also read an article stating poor quality fuel could cause a problem.
All can say is that I generally fill up at my local Morrison’s, probably the cheapest fuel you can get.
Saying that, when I’m on the motorway and accelerate, I can see a puff of black smoke in my rear view mirror, not sure if this is connected in anyway or if this is normal for a diesel car. My town driving mpg had detiorited recently also.

Regarding oil, I give it in for service when warned on the dashboard to an old retired mechanic down the road. What oil he uses, I have no idea.

Any feedback gratefully welcomed.

[adamss24]

Thats the problem, that "old retired mechanic down the road" just costed you an engine. Did he ever heard about PUMP DEUSE engines and the special oil they need ? I bet he does not know what the vw oil spec is for the PD engines. Your engine suffered of what is called "hydrolock", because of different oil speck, the tappets are hydraulic and need oil to keep the clearance between the valves and camshafts. If incorect grade of oil is used the tapets doesnt work properly(hence the loud noise you heard before the engine stopped !) and leads to dropping valves, scored pistons, etc. I have seen an PD audi who some idiot mechanic put ordinary(mineral) oil into it and the engine would not run at all, he's been told to put the right spec straight away and there wasnt no harm done to it ! Call the car breakers maybe they will be able to find a second hand head and have the valve seals replaced and new tappets fitted and check the valve seats as well while you are at it or source an similar engine and just keep yours for spares. If you decide to swap the head have a good mecanic look at the conrods and piston bores for scorring/damage. It may work cheaper than a engine rebuild. Just remember to get the engine ECU and keys so you could start the car or else you may have to pay dealer a visit for matching the ecu to your engine and keys ! As regarding the fuel, the first thing that will go would be the injectors and the engine would perform noticeably poor. Usually the ECU retards/advance the timing as the knock sensors listen for engine pinking/detonation. Also a puff of black smoke when shifting/start-up or at wide throttle its normal. Good luck to you.

[Studio54]

Just thought I'd give you an update as I got my car back on Tuesday.

Well the difference in overall driving is much noticeable.
It feels and sounds much, much smoother and it definitely feels like it has got more power but I have been warned to take it easy on the engine for the first 500 miles or so which I am doing. The car feels livelier than before, that’s the only way I can describe it.

It cost me £2400 in total for the repair.
In the end we decided to go with the VW block as it came as a full complete unit, new injectors etc and it gives me peace of mind over a recon head.
Timing belt, tensioners, water pump, all new, amongst many other things....oh and 4 litres of Castrol SLX engine oil, I have 2 litres spare for top ups.

A lesson learnt, no more retired mechanic down the road from now on.

[adamss24]

Auuuuchhh !