Audi A1 2012 will not start after rear pads changed

[aw911]

Having done some more research i can see what an awful design the chain tensioner has...with no detent to prevent it from skipping the chain if there is insufficient oil pressure to maintain chain tension.

I believe that there is a modified chain tensioner available for these engines although it is too late for this particular one.

That is exactly the thought that I had in relation to explaining that to a customer.

Any assistance in relation to compatible engines would be greatly appreciated. It is the manual box and not DSG.

[Crasher]

That is why you must never counter rotate the engine, accountants have a lot to answer for; mind you the EA888 tensioner has an anti return spring on the plunger and they still **** up!

Remind me tomorrow for I don’t think there are any other suitable codes, it is the only one I can think of where the engine is not interchangeable with an auto… apart from the air cooled type 1 semi auto beetle, yes I have one.

[aw911]

Or maybe the accountants have it right...think how much money that companies like audi and BMW make from selling repair items when these engines fail due to the pennies that they save during manufacture/build. As long as it is out of warranty then they are quids in. Not good for us as the end users...but then we aren't their primary concern.

Did you have any chance to look at engine compatibility?

From one of your replies it suggests that even a CAXA engine might not be directly compatible if it comes from a vehicle with a DSG box as opposed to manual transmission.

As always thanks for all the assistance it is greatly appreciated.

[Crasher]

Why would the timing chain cover vary?

[aw911]

Without being at work I can’t tell but I do recall the CAXA being highly specific, even down to there being a major difference between manual and DSG with a brand new genuine engine (no more exchanges thanks to Brexit) being £8254.80 for DSG and £9417.60 for the manual just because the timing chain cover is different… even though the manual part is cheaper

You said in this post that the CAXA engine was highly specific and you weren't sure whether any other 1.4 tfsi engines from the range would be compatible?

Hence I wondered if you had been able to find out any more about compatibility so that there are potentially more options to choose from. It looks like a replacement engine might be the best option for repair at this point. As opposed to a strip down and repair of the existing engine.

[mickeybo]

why are you looking for another engine is your own siezed or is it not just starting

[aw911]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Had a chance to go and look at the vehicle today.

Tried swapping in 2 new starter relays...absolutely no change.

Therefore started pulling the plugs. Went for #2 first as its easiest access. The plug was extremely tight and struggled to undo almost as if it had been cross threaded....managed to get it undone but it still wouldn't come out (not a good sign).
Removed # 3 and #4 no issues
Removed # 1 and spark plug electrode tip has been bent/damaged which confirmed my suspicion about why # 2 won't come out.

In light of this can anyone who has experience confirm what other engine codes would be directly compatible with this vehicle? It currently has the CAXA engine 1.4tfsi fitted.

Unfortunately it doesn't seem possible to post pictures up on here otherwise I would include a picture of the spark plugs. 1 and 2 have been damaged severely. The reason it won't start is because the engine is siezed due to i believe the timing chain skipping as a result of no oil pressure in the chain tensioner and then the subsequent attempts at starting causing internal engine damage. There are some well documented examples on the Internet and some great videos on YouTube showing the chain tensioner on these engines and how easy it is for the chain to skip teeth when there is insufficient oil pressure in the chain tensioner due to their being no detent.

Having done further research as a result of the starting issues it seems like this is the logical conclusion given that the battery, starter relays and starter motor are all functioning normally. The oil level was fine and was changed along with the filter approx 1000 miles ago.

#2 spark plug was so difficult to remove that it felt like it had been cross threaded and even when fully undone it still didn't want to come out due to the damage to the electrode head. Given the likelihood that the head might need machining and the cost of a new timing chain, valves etc....it seems more cost and time effective to get a used engine at this time.