Buying a 2015 biTdi allroad!

[JN52]

As has been mentioned already the fuel flap lock will fail and with it being a 2015 with 100k I would say it’s been replaced already.
Ive had the Egr valve/cooler replaced last year as it got absolutely clogged up with soot mainly from doing short journeys.The EGR cooler is also known to leak coolant in the V of the engine so try and shine a torch light under the intake manifold a look for any pink residue as well the coolant level in the expansion tank.
Brake discs and pads aren’t cheap to replace either so do check you still have some meat on the pads and not much of a lip on the discs.
If the one you’re looking at has 20’alloys beware that a decent set of tyres will set you back at least £700 or more if you’re after a set of PS4’s.Also being a heavy car don’t expect mega mileage from the tyres.Had to replace mine after 4 years and 30000 miles.
Considering the mileage I would personally look at replacing the injector seals as they can overtime cost you a new engine if diesel gets mixed with the oil in the sump.
As for oil changes I wouldn’t go with anything over 5000 miles as with these Euro6 engines and all the emission control systems on the car that oil gets quickly diluted especially if driven in town.Engine oil capacity is around 6.4 litres and uses the fully synthetic 5W-30.Fuel,oil,air and pollen filters can be bought from either Audi’s parts department or better yet Eurocarparts.Try and go for the MAHLE branded ones as that’s the make the main dealer uses to service the cars.
DPF is never happy on short journeys and the light will come on if not driven hard at least once a week.By hard I mean keeping the revs steady at 2500rpm or more for at least 20 minutes or so.You will need the car in manual mode for this.
Gearbox should be smooth although does suffer from an annoying delay when flooring it.
Ideally try and get the car scanned with VCDS to check for any faults.
I could go on forever but most important is if you’re getting a diesel make sure you’re using it for longer journeys as the DPF/EGR will soon start costing you money otherwise.
The one you’re looking at being an Allroad check to make sure the air suspension is working as it should as this has been known to fail also.Check it raises and lowers itself without one side falling behind.
If it’s been on long life service intervals up to 100k and has a different tyre on each corner I would personally walk away as there will be plenty more that have been well looked after.
Good luck with your purchase and once you find the wright one I am sure you won’t be disappointed.

Thanks very much for that detailed post, very helpful! Do you know the rough cost of replacing the injector seals? Most of my miles are motorway miles thankfully with very little 'town' driving at all really.

[OVI82]

Had mine replaced by a garage in November last year and the cost was £450(London prices)which is very expensive for what it is to be honest.Thats labour, new bolts for each injector plus the rubber and copper washer.Mine didn’t look bad at all as the car has only done 47000 but I’ve done it mainly for peace of mind.
As the others have mentioned try and start the car from cold and listen up for any strange noises with the bonnet up and the engine cover removed.The chain tensioners and in particular plastic guides can allow for some slack in the chain over time especially with cars that have been on a long life service regime with oil changes once in a full moon.The chain could make a bit of noise on a cold start up if the car hasn’t been looked after.
As long as you start with a good base and keep on top of servicing/ maintenance you should be Ok.The fact it’s had the gearbox serviced is a good sign as Audi will tell the ZF gearbox is sealed for life and doesn’t need servicing which is a load of….
If you haven’t got VCDS I suggest you invest in one as it’s great bit of kit.
And once you’ve picked one up if you really want to know what the condition of your engine is like just send a sample of engine oil to a lab for analysis and that will be a good indication as to whether you’ve got yourself a healthy engine or one that’s going to cost you money in the long run.
Good luck with your search and let us know what you end up getting in the end.

[JN52]

Had mine replaced by a garage in November last year and the cost was £450(London prices)which is very expensive for what it is to be honest.Thats labour, new bolts for each injector plus the rubber and copper washer.Mine didn’t look bad at all as the car has only done 47000 but I’ve done it mainly for peace of mind.
As the others have mentioned try and start the car from cold and listen up for any strange noises with the bonnet up and the engine cover removed.The chain tensioners and in particular plastic guides can allow for some slack in the chain over time especially with cars that have been on a long life service regime with oil changes once in a full moon.The chain could make a bit of noise on a cold start up if the car hasn’t been looked after.
As long as you start with a good base and keep on top of servicing/ maintenance you should be Ok.The fact it’s had the gearbox serviced is a good sign as Audi will tell the ZF gearbox is sealed for life and doesn’t need servicing which is a load of….
If you haven’t got VCDS I suggest you invest in one as it’s great bit of kit.
And once you’ve picked one up if you really want to know what the condition of your engine is like just send a sample of engine oil to a lab for analysis and that will be a good indication as to whether you’ve got yourself a healthy engine or one that’s going to cost you money in the long run.
Good luck with your search and let us know what you end up getting in the end.

Thanks again! Injector replacement doesn't seem as expensive as I thought it might be then! Good advice on the cold start, hopefully if I go see it they won't have started it up before I get there haha! Not got a VCDS, would this VCDS with HEX-V2 Enthusiast | Ross-Tech</title><link rel="profile" href="http://gmpg.org/xfn/11" /><link rel="pingback" href="https://store.ross-tech.com/xmlrpc.php" /><base href="https://store.ross-tech.com/"><title>VCDS with HEX-V2 Enthusiast – Ross-Tech be the right one, and then I can just hook it up to my laptop? Is there a UK store for them?

[MFGF]

Thanks again! Injector replacement doesn't seem as expensive as I thought it might be then! Good advice on the cold start, hopefully if I go see it they won't have started it up before I get there haha! Not got a VCDS, would this VCDS with HEX-V2 Enthusiast | Ross-Tech</title><link rel="profile" href="http://gmpg.org/xfn/11" /><link rel="pingback" href="https://store.ross-tech.com/xmlrpc.php" /><base href="https://store.ross-tech.com/"><title>VCDS with HEX-V2 Enthusiast – Ross-Tech be the right one, and then I can just hook it up to my laptop? Is there a UK store for them?

The big two distributors for Ross Tech in the UK are Gendan and Ilexa

Ross-Tech VCDS (VAG-COM) Packages :: Gendan Automotive Products

Ross-Tech VCDS - Diagnostics tools from ilexa onboarddiagnostcs Ltd

Cheers!

MF.

[OVI82]

As suggested by MFGF those are two of the places you can get your cable and software from.I got mine from Gendan and yes you will need to download the software on a laptop.The kit will have all the instructions you need to get this up and running.
If you do end up getting VCDS try and enable oil engine temperature which comes with lap timer and other stuff that you probably won’t need.Its very handy to be able to see the oil getting up to temperature before you decide to push the car a bit.For myself once it’s hit 90 degrees it’s go time��.Theres a sticky at the top of the front page with all sorts of mods that you can activate with VCDS so make sure to check that out also.
If you’re willing to get under the car and service it yourself I wouldn’t advise to go for more than 5000 miles without new oil and filter and all other filters renewed every year.
Oh and as soon as you get your hands on the car lower the window,rip that stupid Stop-Start button off and throw it out the window.Does nothing but help reduce your engines and battery life for the sake of a few pennies it may save you in fuel.I believe it can be coded out with VCDS so please don’t go ripping anything off the car…
Fuel wise,try some normal diesel first and than fill her up with some Shell V Power.I find this allways makes
a difference,although I run it only on V Power as I couldn’t care less about fuel costs����

[dean warren]

The BiTDi suffer from failure of the electronic small turbo actuator too, parts aren’t too bad as vw/Audi sell a repair kit, but there is a lot of labour.


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