Squeeling brakes!!!!

[Marco34]

I hope someone can help. I replaced my discs and pads in September. I had some issues with one disc hotter than the other. I had to take the car to a specialist to change calipers. Anyway, now after some 1000 miles the brakes will screech awfully when light pressure is applied whilst coming to a stop. Just like a bus and as loud!!! They seem fine when cold! Only when they've warmed up do they squeel.

The brakes are EBC discs and pads. The pads have a 'so-called' anti squeel back on them. Is the squeel caused by the disc and pad contact or the seating of the pads in the caliper? I did use some copper grease on the parts the contact the caliper.

Any help appreciated as the noise is awful!

Cheers
Markco

[Marco34]

Looking on EBC site this could be the cause... I havn't braked hard for some time!!!!

NOISE - Light whistling/squeaking (at walking pace)
This noise usually happens as the vehicle is coming to rest and is again typical of a pad that is just bedding in or has been under used. Again the remedy is to allow a few hundred miles for the pads to properly seat and have 100% contact surface against the disc. If the problem occurs intermittently, one good cure is to use the brake severely every day now and again on a safe secluded low traffic piece of road to “de-glaze” the surface of the brake pad.

[Dave Avant]

After reading you initial post I was going to suggest some heavy stops. Do a few braking actions to put some warmth in the brakes then do 3 heavy (consecutive if possible) stops from about 70-80mph down to about 20mph but don't stop and drive to let them cool ans see what this does.

I had a set of Mintex racing pads on my last car and whilst they were bedding in they did some squeeking.

EBC can be good and I used them on track and they were good, but on road they seemed to have off days and do like a good thrashing every now and again. I did have one set of Red Stuff which lasted 40 mins on a track from brand new!!! Some corners it didn't stop and had to take the cross country route.

[RickT]

or you could just have a stone stuck in the pad, ensure the discs are not been scored...

Rick

[Marco34]

After reading you initial post I was going to suggest some heavy stops. Do a few braking actions to put some warmth in the brakes then do 3 heavy (consecutive if possible) stops from about 70-80mph down to about 20mph but don't stop and drive to let them cool ans see what this does.

I had a set of Mintex racing pads on my last car and whilst they were bedding in they did some squeeking.

EBC can be good and I used them on track and they were good, but on road they seemed to have off days and do like a good thrashing every now and again. I did have one set of Red Stuff which lasted 40 mins on a track from brand new!!! Some corners it didn't stop and had to take the cross country route.

Dave, thanks for the advise. Interesting to note how the red stuff behaved!! I think your spot on with the green stuff. These days I find I'm always stuck behind someone slow and there's rarely enough space to drive with some spirit and get brakes hot!!!! I'll give it a go though!

[Marco34]

or you could just have a stone stuck in the pad, ensure the discs are not been scored...

Rick

It's both fronts Rick and sometims the rears! Good shout though, I have heard this from time to time!!

[Marco34]

Dave

Am I right in thinking that glazing is caused by resins from the pad becoming stuck to the disc? Is it the heat build, from heavy brakeing, up that removes the resins?

Cheers

[Dave Avant]

Dave

Am I right in thinking that glazing is caused by resins from the pad becoming stuck to the disc? Is it the heat build, from heavy brakeing, up that removes the resins?

Cheers

Yes, in t'old days they used animal products to make and stick the friction part to the backing plate, now more modern substances are available and glazing isn't as common also a by product from this was a gas which made the pads 'float' over the disc - more commonly known as fade, but there is still some substances that cause glazing. I remember years ago coming down from the Snake Pass I had used the brakes heavily and I got some fade, I stopped and the (solid) discs were glowing bright red!!! This is why scored discs are used so any gases can escape in the grooves, drilled discs do the same but also offer additional cooling - only down side to dilled discs is cheaper discs with too bigger holes can crack - I've found that out!!!

Which Greenstuff pads do you have, I've not bought any for a good few years and not up to date on the compound. When the V4 compound was released it had copper bits in the friction material to help dissipate heat, but this copper when hot melted onto the disc giving a blue black patches on the disc and a warped feeling from the brakes.

But yes a good heavy braking sesh can remove glazing. It depends, you could if the heavy braking doesn't work, try removing the pads and sand paper the friction surface to get a matt surface and basically re bed them in and see if this helps. It has been said when replacing brakes to get the best future problem proof brakes was to use either old pads with new discs or vice versa.

Also when bedding in where most pads manuf. say drive carefully for the first 200miles, this can cause a bit of glazing as if some will say, do 3x light stops 30-0, then 3x 70-20 medium stops, after this use the brakes as normal - depends on the pad make up. The later bedding procedure is more for sports pads, but would use it for normal pads.

[RickT]

It's both fronts Rick and sometims the rears! Good shout though, I have heard this from time to time!!

I see.... not good.. as above, ensure these have bedded in ok.. but they should

be ok..

Rick

[RickT]

It's both fronts Rick and sometims the rears! Good shout though, I have heard this from time to time!!

I see.... not good.. as above, ensure these have bedded in ok.. but they should

be ok..

Rick