Need to remove caliper carrier to change rear discs?

[squowse]

Is it necessary to remove the caliper carrier frame to change the rear discs?
The carrier bolts seem completely seized (loctite).

Also have not been able to turn the bolt in the hub as seen in this video How to change rear brake discs / rear brake rotors on VW PASSAT B6 (3C5) [TUTORIAL *******] - YouTube
Is this bolt a normal right hand thread on both wheels?

Passat B6 Estate 2009 CAYC 1.6 TDI

[Crasher]

Sometimes you can just get them off, others you can't and there is no obvious reason. We (that's the royal we) are just doing the rears on a Yeti which uses the same 282x12 discs as yours BUT the carrier is different, on these you can get the discs off and back on without removing the carrier which is a blessing as the bolts are evil.



The pictures below are of a 3C where the bolts would not come out, we could feel they were going to snap. The bolts rot into the hubs 60mm of their 70mm length, you can see the lower bolt ahead of the lower damper bolt which incidentally had snapped off whilst trying to remove the carrier and the upper in front of the ABS sensor. We had to remove the complete carrier from the car on both sides and every bolt was solid



We had to use a 2Kw induction heater on every bolt through ally and it ended up with new bushes as they all melt



With the carrier off the car we gave them to an engineering shop who made a perfect job of drilling them out. On this hub we didn't even bother trying to remove the carrier bolt as we knew it would be the same.

[squowse]

Thanks a million for the info. Waiting to get it on a ramp to try and loosen either the hub bolt or the carrier bolts. Can't do either 🤦*♂️

[VAG-Abound]

I found the bolt hole passes all the way through the hub carrier. I could see the "blind" side by turning the disc and looking through the holes in it, so was able to give them a squirt or two of PlusGas a couple of days before (continued attempts at) removal (and squirts on the head side).

I was working on trolley jack and axle stands, so far less leverage room than a full height ramp. It took some judicious use of 1/2" breaker bar, universal joints, drive extenders and direct-mount 14mm spline (not spline bit in hex adapter) to get the first sign of movement. After that a more-regular heavy-duty extendable 1/2" ratchet handle (Draper IIRC - useful bit of kit) made fairly quick work of getting them out. You may not need all of those, but worth gathering together various options if you have them.

Access also changes as the suspension extends / compresses. IIRC I had an axle stand to lower some weight onto to "optimise" the balance of access (compressed strut) with leverage (higher vehicle).

Single use bolts IIRC, and given the potential bruising they take coming out having new ones from VAG on hand for refitting makes double sense.

BTW, I give the carriers a run over with angle-grinder wire brush while they're out. The pad slot is prone to corrosion, and the cause of some prior pad binds. Can be done while in situ - but far easier to do a good clean while dismounted.

But hopefully you won't need to remove them

[Crasher]

On the Yeti in the first pic, Matt the mechanic has used a needle descaler gun to rattle the rust off and then burnished with a wire wheel before putting aluminium paste on.