Audi 80 wheel bearings

[diamondbrit73]

i have a 1993 audi 80 2.0e
i need to replace the front wheel bearing, does anyone have an expoled diagram of th efront end showing location etc.

or has anyone got a goos method or tips?

mucho appreciated.

[scotty33]

Remove CV joint centre bolt, wheel, brake caliper, carrier and disc,

Unplug the ABS sensor plug from the wiring loom and feed the wire through into the wheelarch side, do not move the sensor itself at all, it's position in relation to the toothed ring, is critical and must be the same as the other sensors.

Seperate track rod end, bottom ball joint and strut top nut. This method removes the strut complete, which means no need to get the alignment done after, 9unless it needs doing anyway!)
You could seperate the wheel bearing housing from the bottom of the strut instead, which makes the next bit easier, but the suspension geometry will be disturbed.


You should now be in a position to tackle the bearing, This is best left to a garage or engineering shop as it should be done with a press. It is possible to DIY if you have a large vice and a suitable selection of spacers etc.

If so, support the housing and drive/press the hub out from the rear.

There may be Circlips at the back and front of the bearing, these will need removing.

Support the front face of the wheelbearing housing, and drive/press the old bearing out, using suitable spacers/drifts.

Clean out the bore in the wheelbearing housing and apply some grease or oil. Refit the front circlip if applicable.

Press in the new bearing until it comes into contact with the front circlip or reaches its correct position. Fit the rear circlip if applicable.

If half of the inner race is still attached to the hub, this will need removing, either use a knife edge bearing puller, (on the off chance you have one?) or carefully angle grind the bearing race away, in one spot,until it goes paper thin, it should then be possible to crack it with the vice, and remove.

Support the rear of the bearing, and press the hub back into position. Do not hammer it in, the bearing would be damaged by this.

Reassembly is, as they say, the reverse of the above procedure..

n.b. you should use a new CV centre bolt, as it's a stretch bolt.

[diamondbrit73]

Thanks for the reply, i took of the wheel and had a look but decided to get my local garage to do it instead!

£39 to do saves me the time i dont have!

if i had more time id do it myself! but thanks anyway

[m4xmw]

With the amount of faff invloved, I always get a local garage to replace front wheel bearings...its just not worth the hassle to DIY.

Mark

[leighhyde]

[QUOTE=scotty33;93168]Remove CV joint centre bolt, wheel, brake caliper, carrier and disc,

Unplug the ABS sensor plug from the wiring loom and feed the wire through into the wheelarch side, do not move the sensor itself at all, it's position in relation to the toothed ring, is critical and must be the same as the other sensors.

I have been trying to take what appeared to be a plug off the actual sensor - i take it this is not a good plan (i could not remove it but i could rotate it...might be broken now?) i will try for the wiring loom method tomorrow? i could not see where the plug in the wiring loom was is it under the wheel arch?
Do you know what torque to tighten the new centre stretch bolt to after i have changed the bearing - i was going for somewhere around 500Nm...
Thanks Leigh - not sure if anyone will see this old thread...

[scotty33]

Hi

from memory, the ABS sensors unplug inside the engine bay either behind the airbox area or expansion tank depending which side. try metering the sensor, should read approx 1200 ohms if it is still good?

The Bolts come in 2 sizes, M14 thread or M16 should be tightened to a torque value of:

M 14 = 89 lbf/ft then agle tighten a further 90 degrees
M 16 = 148 lbf/ft then angle tighten a further 90 degrees