BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator?

[Nicu82]

Hello
I have the same problem. Audi a6 bitdi actuator stuck. I order g83 and when i try to mount i found my actuator was g90. Look the same. Did anyone know if is any problem if i install this one? Thank you

[Pabloguan]

I forgot to add:

There is also some 'noise' as the engine slows down on the overrun when revved at standstill; it sounds like it's releasing air/boost and it's coming from under the air filter/intake area.
I heard the noise before I plugged the VCDS in and I assumed that the problem was just a leaking boost hose.

finally what caused that sound? I have no faults and it drives fine but I have that annoying noise

[Riki90]

Hi guys bumping this thread, I somewhat have the same problem, The engine management light have not showed up in about 2500km now, my car, An SQ5 Biturbo 2014, driven 218.000 by now, Car works great, but have had 4x times the car has had the engine management light show, goes in limp mode, and had to turn off the car and on, worked fine after that. Now 2500km later has not happend again, i still managed to find one original part G 83 from an A6 driven 120.000km from Germany, was told this one was fully functional before it was taken of. Should arrive in a few days to me. Will deliver it to my local garage, and will be fitted, Hopefully this should be fine. I dont have alot of knowledge when it comes to these type of stuffi have no clue if calibration will be needed. tips would be appreciated, thanks.

[nordic_b]

I think before replacing the actuator someone could've checked if turbo geometry is actually not stuck. If it is, further investigation needs to be carried out why it got stuck - like, is it a wear, excess carbon build up, coolant contamination, etc. Functioning geometry even on high mileage cars moves freely throughout the whole range without any resistance.

[Riki90]

I have checked on VCDS got Turboactuator 1 - stuck

I dont mind replacing it as i got the part for a good price, Also been told that this is the main problem from a guy that i know, his friend, that lives pretty far away from where i live, told us that it is common and that he replaces these a couple of times every month or so at his garage.. Was also told that its very common on the biturbo models thats reached 200k kms or more…

[Elektroman]

So i spent a weekend by this topic because my regulator was damaged too. And i belieee i figure it out, so here it is for you:

Official audi procedure is:
To put special bracket end stop to the regulator, connect dedicated VAS machine and note actuator volatage when end stop is reach. Then replace the regulator, change bolts, and position it in the way so the volatage on the VAS display is exactly the same with tolerance 0.02V.

I studied the procedure and one think was cleare since begining if i remove old actuator nobody (maybe only Garett) will be able to setup new actuator as there will be no voltage end stop records. So i recomend to give this job somebody who owns the VAS device and who know the procedure...

Anyway i removed the old actuator because as mentioned from other members there is almost no free space in bolt holes so there is it seem there no way to position the new actuator incorrectly. Which you will see later is not true

So i order new actuator from Audi, cost about 500EUR. First difference i found as other mentioned old marking was G83 and new is G98.
I assembly everything together and voala.... Car was jerking around 1.100 rpms exactly as other mentioned.

Long story short i start to investigate where can be the problem and i found that with the new actuator as a part of repair kit you will get new bolts. If you go on the begining of my text where the audi procedure is mentioned there is point "change bolts for new' and it seems to be important point because new bolts are tapered close to the bolt head so you can move the actuator up and down little bit even the holes are circular.....

So i put new bolts, loose them and move whole actuator up, tight the screws going to test drive and car sems to runs fine since then. No jerking.

So hope it will help others. I recomend to change it properly with VAS device and end stop gauge.

[a.daniel]

Hello, everyone! Recently, my 2013 Audi A6 3.0 Bi-tdi has been experiencing an issue with the EML ( fix) and the coil light flashing on the dashboard. The error code is P2564 00 (167), indicating a problem with the “Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit - Signal too Low.” Sometimes, both lights appear simultaneously, but I can only reset the EML is with VCDS. However, if I attempt to drive with the coil light flashing, the car goes into limp mode.

When the coil light is flashing, the only way to cancel it is by turning the engine off and on again. Have any of you encountered this issue, and do you happen to know the location of this sensor?

However, approximately once or twice a week, these two error it reappear. Besides this issue, the car performs exceptionally well with 260,000 kilometers on it.

Thanks a lot in advance,
Dan

[Gabryel87]

Hello everyone! Recently, my 2015 audi a7 3.0 bitdi has been experiencing an issue sometimes when turn off and turn on the engine or accelerate the vehicle in bord appear intermittently spiral and the vehicle being slowly and it doesn't allow me to accelerate anymore
over 3000. If someone have any information about that I deeply appreciate it! Down i will upload the code that i found it.

IMG_1925.jpeg and 1 other file | Files.fm.

[BenJones1]

Dear All,

I hnow have the same problem with turbo actuator on my 2014 SQ5 3.0 diesel biturbo.

Please can someone letr me know if it is possible to change this without the removal of the heatshield?

Many thanks,

Ben

[BenJones1]

Hi RanjT,

Thank you for your pointers on how to remove the Audi actuator.

I read somewhere that someone said you had to remove the heatshield too. Is that correct? I'm hoping to remove from my 3.0 tdi SQ5 without having to do this. Do you know if any calibration or activation is required of new actuator? I've just bought a new Hella one on Ebay for £173. Says its 'not activated' so I'm hoping I can activate with VCDS. Maybe you know?


Cheers,

Ben

You can buy from TPS for around £252 plus vat or source a recon unit from ebay. Wouldnt consider 2nd hand as the internals are prone to wearing away.

Easiest way to get it off is follow the workshop manual for removal of the scuttle panel, bulkhead divider plate between engine and where wiper motor is.

Once thats removed its 3 bolts to remove the actuator and the circlip on the vanes rod. Remove the electrical plug and replacement is the opposite of removal.

You have to remove the bulkhead divider and heatshield to get the unit out and get the harness connector off, this is minimum u must remove to get the unit out.