Golf Mark 6 - Passenger Door Rear and Front Not Unlocking from Inside or Outside.

[VAG-Abound]

We've recently had similar trouble on our Touran. In our case it was a mechanical weakness in the lock making passenger door unopenable, so repeated excersising of remote locking with suitable vibration from banging door did eventually get it open for me to work on. As yours is an electrical failure that's unlikely to work...

It needed to be open for non destructive repair as the door card has screws and an edges that "flow" into the cabin shape, so impossible to remove with door closed. Not sure if Golf is same. As I was battling with various parts in the door after getting it open I was idly wondering how the other multiple reports in the last couple of weeks would get on if door couldn't be opened.

As "least worse" options, compared with destruction of door metal, I came up with:

1. Use ~80mm hole saw to make holes in card over electrical connectors if they are suspect. Repeat on other door for aesthetic purposes . Hopefully applying 12V to correct pins (perhaps identifiable by playing with working door and a multimeter?) can activate unlocking. With a bit of luck and suitable colour mastic or painted push-in lid the hole could be quite well hidden.
2. There's a Door Woes thread about how I found the deadlocking works, and being able to flick the right component should then get door handle working for dismantling and repair. Unfortunately many cars have a solid / unperforated "carrier" panel between the door card and outer door workings with window lifter, etc on it. So unless door card and then this carrier can be removed it's impossible to reach lock mechanism from inside for manual flicking of components to open door. Although our door mechanism has some plastic shrouding for weather or thief proofing I think you could get past this if the window was smashed () and removed, plus the strip along top of door that gives it some weather seal. That would give about an inch wide gap to peer into with a torch and tools.

Hopefully it won't come to that though - good luck.

[EDIT: Just had an afterthought that assuming window lifter is working (maybe not if BCM is bust..) then with correct drilling of door card it'd be possible to undo the clamps that secure glass to carrier from inside. Then electrically or manually lifting it, holding it in closed position while mechanism is lowered and finally manually lowering glass into door by hand may allow it to be leaned past carrier so it sits on bottom of door giving access through top edge]

[VAG-Abound]

While wondering if Mk6 had the removable outer door skin which could have helped I found this showing how the internal wiring is laid out: Front Door Trim Removal – Volkswagen MK6 Golf – AutoInstruct.

This link gives you a nice big, zoomable view of the plug into the latch unit: https://mk0autoinstruct25ass.kinstac...6/LJS_4370.jpg. Hopefully access to the 7 wires somewhere along its length will let you feed what is needed to release the deadlock - maybe as simple as bringing across from other door.

Found some wiring diagrams. They label white wire (position 5 on connector) as controlling the SAFELOCK motor (which disables inside handle), yellow (7) for the motor for other locking (when inside handle pull will release door) and violet (6) as common / earth. But looks like there is a bit of mislabeling going on as that picture shows white, yellow, violet as 5, 6, 7. Bit of checking on your driver door to see may be in order.

Wiring diagram for the other side shows position 1, 2, 3 as violet, yellow, white - which would match picture order although all reversed IYSWIM . White is again SAFELOCK motor into violet. Reading how SAFELOCK works if you can get that motor to move then a tug on inside handle should open door.

[NigelMark6]

Hello

Thank you for the detailed reply.

I have just invested in a ANCEL VD500 Diagnostic device. Plugged in and cleared the annoying AirBag Fault I had created by removing fuses etc whilst trying to diagnose issue with left hand aside door locks and Window lift.

So fault codes resident are.

0133
0132

01333 - Door Control Module Rear Left (J388)

01333 - Door Control Module Rear Left (J388): Defective

Possible Causes

• Fuse(s) faulty
• Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Door Control Module Rear Left (J388) faulty
• Door Control Module Rear Left (J388) faulty

Possible Solutions

• Check Fuse(s)
• Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Door Control Module Rear Left (J388)
• Check/Replace Door Control Module Rear Left (J388)

01332 is the sane for the rear passenger side door.

Annoyingly the window lift is not working either.

Very Oddly

I replaced the battery - hard reset to the car and hey presto the left hand side came alive, however by morning it was dead again. I am not sure what this tells me other than possibly not a wiring fault, more a module issue, either with Voltage levels or ??

The info on removing the inner door card was very useful - I have done this on the drivers side and its a pain.

The big trial now is removing the door card whilst the door is closed..

Thank you again for your detailed help.