Parking brake motor?

**Straight6DOHC** · 30-07-2016,05:09 PM

Hi guys, I have a 02433 code which is a 'Supply Voltage for Right Parking Brake Motor'. Can I assume that I need a new motor or should I investigate further? The problem was highlighted when one of the motors stuck on/wouldn't release. The switch operated fine by winding the other motor on and off. These are expensive items so I don't want to buy something if the problem lies elsewhere.
Also, I've heard these motors are a nightmare to get off, if it turns out to be the problem, does anyone have advice on removal?
Thanks in advance.

**RichardSEL** · 30-07-2016,06:14 PM

Difficult, apart from sierra tango echo alpha lima echo romeo, to buy the motor separately. Get the whole caliper which comes with motor on it.

Get a copy of my help .doc that I put together in case it ever happened to me again. It hasn't

PM me an email address for return attach. Remind me what it's for.

You don't say what car you've got. Do not continue to operate EPB in fault condition. That can take the controller module out too
Disconnect EPB plug and put up with the dings and any error messages meantime.

If you've freed the EPB by manually winding and it's working again now, it will fail again at the most inopportune place

**martin1810** · 31-07-2016,07:38 AM

Not sure why you think motor is hard to get off. They usually come off easy. Replace the motor in half an hour and job done, unless the controller is upset.

**DMitch16** · 31-07-2016,11:33 AM

As Martin states easy enough job providing you use Basic Setting in the VCDS brake controller to cycle the motors to the Off position as the replacements come in the wound off position. Forcing back the caliper pistons if the car thinks the parking brake is still on may fry your expensive brake modules.

Always wait at least 30 seconds after the Basic Settings have completed before closing the controller (there is a bug in some brake module versions and coming out too soon damages them).

TRW units are a direct replacement and usually on an exchange basis (as they remanufacture them using better motor housings). Make sure you have the right unit as there are 2 of them for certain years, one being aluminium and the other cast iron. They are not interchangeable as they have different piston sizes and different electrical connectors. Price you should pay is £145 to £175 for a preassembled caliper and motor unit. Any more and you've not looked hard enough.

Bolt on, plug in, a quick bleed to remove any air in the rear circuit and then use VCDS Basic Settings again to cycle brakes on and run the brake function test which cycles them on and off for a short while.

Done it myself (twice as both sides failed) and for a take your time DIYer would be a couple of hours start to finish.

Tripletrouble · 03-08-2016,04:58 PM

The O/S failed on ours today. I haven't been able to find one for under £177, not including exchange allowance. Any ideas where I can find one for £145?
I was thinking about just changing the motor. A good idea or not? Incidentally, ours is bloody jammed on FFS.

**DMitch16** · 03-08-2016,06:10 PM

Originally Posted by Tripletrouble

The O/S failed on ours today. I haven't been able to find one for under £177, not including exchange allowance. Any ideas where I can find one for £145?
I was thinking about just changing the motor. A good idea or not? Incidentally, ours is bloody jammed on FFS.

The £145 was as a result of a hefty discount code some time ago on Euro Car Parts of 35% which they have not matched recently. Other motor factors do surprising discounts every so often but sadly the £145 price will be a rarity. Depending on which version you need, cast iron with 41mm piston (cars to 12/2007) or aluminium with a 38mm piston (cars from 01/2008), the current ECP discount code is 20% giving £43 off the price of the £214.99 aluminium version. This means a price taking into consideration the surcharge of £53.99 which you get back, of £171.99. A week ago the discount would have been 25% i.e. £53 as there was a different promo code in force, forcing the price down to around £161. If you are in a hurry the choice is limited and the earlier cast iron unit more expensive (they are not interchangeable).

**Straight6DOHC** · 03-08-2016,08:41 PM

I managed to replace the motor yesterday. Got it from eBay for £86 and it appears to be a TRW unit. Old one came off fine. I have an ebp tool so it was fortunately an easy job. Hope that helps.

**zilspeed** · 03-08-2016,10:19 PM

I stripped mine off, dismantled and rebuilt them cleaning all the crud out and greasing all of the mechanisms.
This was after they had become a bit lazy and unwilling.

The housing had cracks in them.
I glued them back together using two pack epoxy and all of the above worked perfectly.

When I refitted them, I operated the parking brake by pressing the button.
The motors cycled a couple of times and settled down.

That was it.

I didn't use any sort of plug in tool.

It cost me £1 for the glue from poundland and I already had the grease.

You should not follow my example. It may have all worked out perfectly for me. It may not for you.

**RichardSEL** · 04-08-2016,08:54 AM

Originally Posted by Straight6DOHC

I managed to replace the motor yesterday. Got it from eBay for £86 and it appears to be a TRW unit. Old one came off fine. I have an ebp tool so it was fortunately an easy job. Hope that helps.

What's an "epb tool" please?

Tripletrouble · 11-08-2016,07:58 AM

Just a quick update. I replaced the caliper entirely as the splines had stripped in the housing.
To remove the caliper which was jammed with the pads on, I removed the motor and housing and hammered a T45 into the caliper socket. I could then wind it off. It unwinds in an anti-clockwise directing, not the clockwise you'd expect.
Changed for a new one and back on the road in 45 minutes. Happy days.