Alleviating low rpm multitronic clutch slip symptoms

[The Norwegian]

Since I've had this problem for a long while, I've read most of the threads I could find about it on here, Audiworld and other places. Figured I'd try to dig around in VagCom in order for it to give me some clues to what's the problem.
Through an Audi TSB document, I did manage to find a criteria for whether the clutch pack should be replaced through measurement. I used that information with another procedure in order to gain results.

From the TSB

If the difference between MVB 12 position 1 and MVB 12 position 2 is below 65 mA, or a negativevalue, and ifMVB 10, position 1 is below 300 mA (2005 and later model years - below 350 mA):




Replace the 6-plate clutch pack with a new 7-plate clutch pack.

This refers to measurement blocks on the auto. trans module in Vagcom. Mine was 750mA - 675mA = 75mA difference. Just above the threshold. My block 10 pos 1 value was 235. So, close to what would be a replaced clutch pack.

I then noticed that some of the blocks showed ADP Run. I know those should normally only be there if adaption isn't complete, and the instructions specify it shouldn't normally be run without changing components in the tranny. So I tried following the Ross Tech guide for adaption. Kinda panicked a bit when the RPM went wild, but after doing the stated procedure all blocks showed ADP OK after a couple of iterations.
I then happened to look again at the values I measured earlier, and block 12 pos 1 was now showing 1.0A, with pos 2 showing 0.75 or so. I'm not really sure what exactly these currents represent, there isn't any readily available documentation. But it made a huge difference in throttle response. The car pulled away much more easily and behaves much more seamless between the throttle stages. I also didn't have any juddering on the test drive.
Now, other than that some kind of learning mode has been completed, I'm not sure precisely what has happened, and it will probably not make your worn out parts like nw. Maybe it won't last - I don't know. But there was a definite improvement for me, it felt much more like what I can imagine being the intended feeling of driving this car.
I'm going to re-measure these values after a week of driving, but for in order to remember what I did and for any other who might be interested, I decided to write it down here.

[seninha]

Great info. I think I will do the same test to check if problems that i have is related to the clutch.

Before I can do this, can you please advise where exactly you need to do those measurement with VAGCOM?
My problem is moving from standstill (80% of the time) and judder between 1200 and 1300 rpm (i really hope this is not an wear pully, but I am afraid it is)

[The Norwegian]

Hi. Does it happen when your car is cold, hot, or both?
You should inspect all air intake lines and vacuum lines for any kind of leak. It will affect low performance situations.
Also consider cleaning your throttle body and resetting it. I used carb cleaner and a lint free cloth and cleaned the edge of the plate with the tb still on the car.
The adaption I did is under measurement blocks when you select automatic transmission in vag com. Go to block 010.


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[seninha]

Issue from standstill happens both on cold and warm. Sometime car moves without any issue but next time it jumps forward at around 11/1200 rpm (with a kick in the back).
Juddering always is around 12 and 1300 rpm. Hot or cold. To not feel this judder I need to keep the revs above the 1200 while accelerating

Also when cruising below 2000 rpm rev needle jumps up and down about 500 rpm. Not always but for sure most of the time.

My car is a 2.5 TDI, and I have no idea if the throttle body as been cleaned.

Thanks for adaptation info, but what about measuring the mA's. Where can I do this?

[The Norwegian]

It's through vagcom. Unfortunately your engine/transmission combination and symptoms you describe would point towards you probably needing a new clutch basket. However, doing the aforementioned procedure is part of diagnosing it. I'll try to link the full document. Which year is it?


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[seninha]

Thanks ... It;s a 2.5 TDI avant from 2002

[The Norwegian]

http://uberlame.com/a6_tsb/Transmiss...standstill.pdf


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[The Norwegian]

You can first try what I outlined at this post and do one test; pull your MAF sensor (it should be between the air filter and intake hose) and see if it runs better.

It's an expensive repair, I would guess 2k €. But people have reported that its good as new after it. I know there's this guy in England that's pretty cheap, you can also consider going to Poland. I see you're NL.


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[seninha]

Thanks again..
I know it's expansive. here in Holland it's around € 1500 just for clutch replacement.
To expensive if you take count that in the UK you can have the same job done plus upgrade valve body for the same money.

Audi A4 A6 2.4 L 01J multitronic auto automatic gearbox Remanufactured | eBay

Did a lot of reading and watched a lot of youtube video's and as far as I can see, changing the clutch is not that difficult. Only issue is upgrading the ECU wen going from 6 to 7 plates.
Also found a polish site offering the needed clutches plus all other parts

http://www.aupetshop.cz/01j0an-kat-10878/

Normally I not scare to take a job I never done before, and for sure I would do this myself but ECU upgrade is the thing keeping me from doing this.

Idea to go to Poland also crossed my mind, but until know I could not find any information about where and how much it will cost.

[The Norwegian]

I think the eBay link you have found is by far the cheapest I've seen. In Poland, I only know of TEO motors, it's a company specialising in rebuilding engines and auto trans, they are very professional, but you probably have to pay 1800 euro for it.

I'd rather go to the UK than do it myself, it seems like a terrible job to do yourself, and speaking for myself, it would take a long time to just get the box out, and I would have spent considerable time doing the job done right. The fluid alone is gonna run you a couple of hundred euros.