My gearbox has lost 1 and 2 gears :(

[mumutley]

Hi all,

Recentky puchased a Audi TT 1.8 225bhp cabrolet for the wife.

I was out driving the other night and its lost 1 and 2 gear

The gear lever seems to move ok (ish) in to these gears, doesn't seem quiet as positive as before, selects all other gears with no problems.

I have checked the selector cable and all seems ok (plus the fact all other gears select ok)

After a internet hunt it appears my gearbox may have failed!!

I am therefore looking to replace the gearbox and I am wondering how hard is it to remove the gearbox?

I have access to a two post ramp and workshop full of kit.

How long should the job take and are there any major pit falls I need to be aware of?

Thanks all in advance for your help

[Crasher]

It is likely one of the shift lever rivets has failed, very common on the 01M box. The box in this car is absolutely evil to get out. The main step is to release the steering column shaft from the rack and drop the subframe down and then use a ratchet strap from the back suspension to pull the subframe rearwards and out of the way. the use of a double hanger inner wing cross brace to lower the engine and box down and then tilt it down is vital and due to the considerable weight of the box, a gearbox jack is mandatory unless you have at least three people getting it out. The worst part is getting the rear propshaft drive bevel box section out of its little hiding space around the back of the block under the turbo and I find it best to pull the box back, rotate it clockwise (viewed from above) and roll it over forward and out . As I said though, bloody heavy and oddly balanced, I dropped one once as there were only the two of us and it slipped off of the gearbox stand and hit the deck, smashing the case! With the box out you would be well advised to fit a new three piece LUK or Sachs clutch kit and if there is the slightest cause for concern over the turbo, get it off with the box out rather than the absolute misery of trying to do it later with the box in.

[mumutley]

Hi Crasher

Thank you for the detailed reply.
I have got a engine support beam with 2 adjustable points/chains on it.
I also have the use of a transmission stand and 3 blokes, hanging around ready to help - make tea and laugh at me struggling

Once the box is out and cleaned up I will begin stripping it, I will post my findings and hopefully pictures on the task.

[Rob69]

I saw an episode of wheeler dealers where mr china sorted one of these rivets and kept himself nice and clean! Maybe on youtube.

[grant19841]

Yes I still that episode too lol, it could be the folk on the gear selector that had sheared off,
In which all that you have to do is clear the two rivets from the gear box and make sure they haven't worn any teeth on your gears, then replace the rivits with two bolts and nylon nuts.
YouTube

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[mumutley]

Hi All,

WOW what a job!! 4 hours in and the gearbox is still in the car!!
Both front drive shafts stuck in the hubs, looks like there are stuck in the splines!
Removing propshaft drive to rear wheels, those multi spline bolts sure are a pain in the ****!
Removing the O/S/F driveshaft flange from the transfer box, How deep is the 6mm Allen Key?!
A34-0248.jpg
Searching on Google turn this up 'V.A.G 1669' a 210mm 6mm long hex socket!
I used a 6mm Allen key in a 6mm socket in 1/4 drive and long extension, came undone in the end and transfer box out
Gearbox will be out tomorrow, then refit subframe as my mate needs the ramp clear for work Monday
I will then wash the outside of the gearbox ready to strip and see what lurks inside

[grant19841]

Great stuff, try a breaker bar on the drive shaft bolts makes a big difference and cake all the bolts in wd40 a minute before you try to unbolt them.
Good luck

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[grant19841]

Oh and your better of using a socket Allen key with an extension for the flange bolts

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[Crasher]

You can do it without removing the bevel box. The 6-mm headed bolt is so deep down inside that I have to use my longest 3/8" extension bar and this twists up under the load and then goes twang! The CV joints are put into the hubs with a locking compound and added to that they get corroded in, we normally have to remove the disc and use a 3 legged hydraulic puller, two legged can distort the wheel bearing hub and even them Mr 3lb has to come out to play... If you resort to ******** them, use a brass bar to avoid ruining the end of the joint.

[mumutley]

Managed to undo the drive shaft nuts, but the CV joint will not move in the splines!!
Now I have Crashers explanation that they put in to the hubs with locking compound, it's not surprising they will no come out!
Undid the spline bolts on the inner CV joints, this gives room to remove the transfer box
Today engine support beam in place
support.jpg

The gearbox:
offending.jpg
Gearbox was then removed
Subframe refitted
Inserted 2 long gearbox bolt and using couple of old seat belts the engine is supported by the top strut bar
Car removed from the workshop
Engine jacked up and placed on wooden block, to relieve the tension the seat belts.
Gearbox is now sitting at home waiting for me to clean and strip it
I will up date the posting when the gearbox is stripped down, I have fingers and toes crossed
Does anyone have a schematic drawing, pictures of the gearbox internal layout?
Anything will be useful
Am I correct in that I support the gearbox on the bench, with suitable blocks and pull the bell houseing upwards away from the gearbox?
gearbox.jpg
Will anything drop out that I need to be aware of?