Golf 1.6 AKL Compression Results

**mike199025q** · 22-07-2015,12:40 PM

**zollaf** · 22-07-2015,12:58 PM

the head is full of oil and water. as you lift it off that oil and water has to go somewhere and into a cylinder it will go, so perfectly normal.

**Crasher** · 22-07-2015,01:15 PM

This is the main pressure oil feed to the head, when you remove the head, all the oil in the cam and lifter gallery will pour out of the adjacent cylinder head bolt hole which is where the oil goes into the head, all perfectly normal. Those bores are scratched and need a light hone. How much money shall I put on you not having put running in oil through first like I advised?

Due to the use of a MLS head gasket, the surface finish of the head and block must not be less than that given by 100 grit emery cloth.

**mike199025q** · 22-07-2015,01:29 PM

I'm guilty of the oil situation, no I didn't. So the head gasket hasn't failed? would like to know whats wrong with the car lol just want it sold.. at the moment i'm thinking head gasket, valve stem seals or oil control rings

**Crasher** · 22-07-2015,03:12 PM

Originally Posted by Crasher

Sometimes this oil burning can be the valve oil seals due to worn guides but mostly it is due to worn piston rings

Unless you have X ray vision taking the head off is no more use than not removing it in the first place, you need to remove the exhaust valves to check the seals and guides for wear and you need to remove the pistons to see if the oil rings have any tension but that is a subjective analysis that requires you knowing how they should feel. Placing an old oil ring in the bore, squaring it up with a piston and then seeing how it moves can give you a clue.

**mike199025q** · 22-07-2015,03:42 PM

Okay I'll check them, there's two piston ring kits available. One normal size the other is .05mm over sized. Which should I get if need be?

**Crasher** · 22-07-2015,03:56 PM

You would need to measure the bores to determine that and to do that you need a proper bore micrometer which is £75. If there is no wear gap left at the top of the bore after honing (a small unhoned shiny ring about 10-mm down) then I would stick to standard size. Which make of ring are you looking at?

**mike199025q** · 22-07-2015,08:11 PM

Should I get the head skimmed or just use some of that cloth you mentioned? Also, I'm going to take the pistons out remove the rings except the oil control ring, put the piston in upside down and check the tension, if there is a fair bit of tension will that mean the oil control rings are okay?

**Crasher** · 23-07-2015,10:13 AM

I would strongly recommend that the head is given just a little tickle across the face by an engineering shop, just to make sure it has the right surface finish for an MLS gasket (what they call RA for Roughness Average) and to make sure it is 100% flat. This is an AGU head after rebuild and it shows a typical machine shop surface finish.

If the block was out and apart I would even suggest that was done but the combination of ally and iron can be tricky to re-finish. I tap the dowel pins out through the other side with a drift and then use a big block of steel I had machined up with a piece of 80 grit to give the top deck a clean flat finish that again will bite into an MLS gasket. Make sure you block off all the openings with cloth or paper towel as you do not want grit getting down into oil and water areas and don't forget the oil feed drilling BUT don't forget to remove the bungs after, do a count of them as you fit them and count them back out. This is the ready to assemble finish on a BUD that was having a head rebuild only.

You need to take the rings off of the piston to check them and then use a piston to push them back into the block square. Hopefully the ones you buy will not need gapping but you should always check the gap, especially on the top ring. This is a Total Seal top ring out of the packet for a 2 litre BAM conversion I did last year, way way too tight for a mental turbo nutter engine...

**mike199025q** · 23-07-2015,03:00 PM

Took the valves out, intake and exhaust valves on cylinder 4, the exhaust valve had oil on the valve seat. The bottom of the valve near the valve head was wet too, so the problem was worn valve seals, replacing them all. Also, when pulling the valve out, it didn't give a little tension like it did with the new seals in. Also, took number 4 piston out, the oil control ring was completely flush with the piston, so the oil ring had gone too going to check the others soon