2006 Polo 9N front brake discs and pads Identity.

[midge6]

Hi, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I'm trying to gather all the parts necessary for a full service on my Son's 2006 Polo 9N 1.2 petrol car. I managed to identify most of what I'll need, but I'm uncertain what make of front discs and pads to order. I know that the discs are internally vented with a 256mm diameter and very worn with a thickness of 19mm. The callipers have FS III stamped on them, but I can't find anything on line that refers to that information. When I look, most sites state various Brake systems, Lucas Girling, ATE Teves etc. Has anyone come across this before and If so, what did you order? Obviously, I don't want to order the wrong thing and have to send it back.
Many thanks,
Midge

[niall campbell]

Go to Eurocarparts and put in your Reg number.

It worked for my car.

Don't worry about the make of the cars brakes, its the quality of discs and pads you put on, 19mm is the minimum thickness the disc should be.

My boys car stops really well after new pads and discs, try Bosch as I got or Ferodo .

The pads have different positions for fitting, one for piston and the other side. Put some copper grease on the outside of the pads for squealing & clean the guide rails for the pads to slide along.

I put Mann filters on from Euro , NGK sparkplugs and Bosch ignition coils ................... but I had to replace my ignition coils............... hopefully you don't have to. The plugs at £3 each should be done every 10,000 miles.

I did put in 5w/40, however I am going to drain it and put in 10w/40 Semi Castrol Magnatec. My boys car is drinking the stuff so putting in slightly thicker oil and I believe the magnatec is better for some engines that are using oil........................... however that's just a personal opinion.

[midge6]

Hi Niall, thanks for the comprehensive reply.I had put the registration number in to acouple of web sites, but it came up with different options for the brake system,hence the request for help.After a bitmore detective work, I was 99.99% certain what I needed to order and so I bitthe bullet and ordered the set.For therecord and in case anyone else has this dilemma in the future the FS 111calliper is the Teves system, which is internally vented 22mm thick and 256mmdiameter - I fitted them yesterday and they work a treat.I have a couple more jobs to do, (fuelfilter, spark plugs and replace rear door lock) and that will be me done untilsomething else needs doing.
Once again, many thanks,
Midge

[niall campbell]

The doors I would leave alone. You take off the panel and you are confronted with a metal panel with numerous bolts.

And a rivet or two.

If you buy the Haynes manual, it describes it better. I left my boys car alone and told him to live with it.

He has to pull the interior handle twice to open the front passenger. The first unlocks it, then the 2nd time allows opening.

As far as I could see, there was no way to adjust the tightness of the rods

[midge6]

Hi Niall,
It's too late! I've already stripped the rear door down and had a look at the internal mechanism of the lock - I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with it. There are 3 microswitches, a printed circuit board and a motor, the 3 micro switches appeared to be working okay and the motor will unlock the door but mostly it won't lock it again, which obviously has security implications if you forget to check the lock when leaving the car. I've ordered a replacement lock and it's on its way from Germany as we speak - it's about £37 delivered and hopefully it will be a good quality one. Seemingly, the soldering on the PCB can deteriorate over time, which can cause this problem but I couldn't see anything wrong with it - I will re-solder all the joints when i get at it again just to see if that was the problem.
You're right about accessing the lock, it's not straight forward, the main things to be aware of are taking care to pull out each of the 7 trim clips from the metal door frame without breaking them - if you haven't got the right tool, then 2 flat bladed screwdrivers pushed under opposite sides of each clip followed by a careful bit of levering should get them out intact. The next awkward task is to detach the window glass from the winding mechanism, this entails removing a nylon barrel and plug from a round hole in the glass - the window needs to be wound down to a certain position to access them, you will need two threaded bolts of different diameter to screw in to the plug and barrel in order to pull them out.When you done that, the glass needs to be manually pulled up and taped to the frame so it doesn't drop down. The next stage is to remove the cable connecting the lock to the door handle you'll need a Torque T30 driver to loosen the screw that holds the barrel of the lock (The bit of the handle that doesn't move).The screw is inside the door behind a rubber bung near the handle on the side of the door - you only need to undo it a few turns and the barrel will pull out, you then simply pry out the cable from the handle.
You're nearly there now, unbolt the 2 bolts holding the lock to the door frame and all those bolts you mentioned on the metal panel and the whole assembly will slide out, detach the electrical connector and internal lock cable and rod and that's it.
I've had to put it all back together (Except the trim - too risky to mess with that again!) while I wait for the lock to arrive. with hindsight, If I had known I could get a lock at that price, I would have got one and swapped it straight away - we live and learn.
Anyway, give it a go...
Best of luck.
Midge
PS: there are rivets but I think they're what holds the window regulator on to the metal frame - you don't need to touch them.

[niall campbell]

that's brilliant detail. Feel as if I have done it.

I presumed that the cable on my boys car had stretched, with no way of tightening it.

He has a 3 door with no central locking. I think with the 5 door and central locking, you would have to do it as its too easy to leave open.

[midge6]

Hi Niall, I didn't see any way of adjusting the cable either, I find it hard to believe that the cable would have stretched, but maybe it has. Having just looked at our cable and door handle assembly, I'm wondering has the little black plastic retaining fixing on the end of the bowden cable at the handle end loosened and slid back along the external surface and consequently reduced the travel of the inner cable? If you could slide it towards the end and somehow secure it in position it might fix your problem - at least you could try it without dismantling the whole door and window mechanism.
Food for thought...
Midge

[niall campbell]

Any cable will stretch, clutch cable , even a bicycle brake cable.

I think a rod would have been better.

I am going to try in a few weeks time to sort it.