VW Golf 54 Front Electric Windows not opening with Door Switches

[rabb5it]

VW Golf 54 1.9Tdi SE 77Kw. Both front windows can no longer be opened with the door switches, the windows had previously started to go down when trying to close them but I always got them closed eventually. NS and OS stopped working at the same time! However, I can open and close both windows simultaneously using the key fob and I can close both windows using the door switches after opening with the key fob. Trying to eliminate friction, I have removed the NS door skin and cleaned all moving surfaces, it made no difference. I've checked for broken wires in the door grommet, but I can still not open the windows with the door switches. Has anyone got a suggestion.

[Flash2]

First, I'd check the voltage supply & ground to the door control unit (electric window motor). It's the heavy red/yellow and heavy brown.

If that checks OK, then I'd next measure the voltage output of the switch. On the driver's door switch connect your voltmeter between the red/white wire (O/S window control wire) and ground. You should have about 5 volts on the control wire with the switch at rest (off). Move the switch to each of the 4 detents and make sure you get 4 different voltage readings. Try the same test on the red/yellow wire (N/S window control wire) and you should get the same results. (image below shows switch voltage tests using oscilloscope)

VW_7L_Electric Window Switch.jpg

[rabb5it]

Thank you for the advice flash2.

I checked the NS motor supply Red/yellow and Brown and I get about 12v

The NS door switch gives 5v on Grey and 2v on Purple/white

The OS drivers door switch gives 2v on Red/yellow NS and 2v Red/white OS

I wasn't able to see different voltage readings on the switch detents but perhaps that was my inability to do that properly.

I'm not sure what my next step is

[Flash2]

The grey wire supplies power to the switch illumination LED. It doesn't have anything to do with making the window go up and down.

2 volts on the window control wires doesn't sound right to me. As you can see in the screen shot I attached to my last post, the voltage should be around 5 volts with the switches at rest. The voltage is then pulled low by different amounts via a series of resistors inside the switch. Each different voltage tells the control unit to perform a different function. I don't know off the top of my head why the voltage would be low on both doors. Is there anything else on the door that doesn't work. The mirror adjustment or the locking button on the inside door panel? Have you checked all the fuses on the dash fusebox...just in case. I'd check them all but fuse 12 in particular.

Mk5_Fuses.jpg

[rabb5it]

The mirror adjustment and the door locking work. All the fuses are ok including fuse 12 (10A).
If I can find a car with a similar door switch I could swap it to see if there is any change, but it will still be getting only 2 Volts supply.

[Flash2]

I've had a rethink and I'm thinking that the 2 Volt on your window control wires can't be the problem if the windows can be closed using the switches. I don't now how I missed that in your original post...apologies.

You should be able to do a bypass test on the switch to confirm if it's the switch that's faulty or not.

If you look back at the scope screen shot I attached you can see that the control voltage is pulled completely to ground to open the windows. So all you need to do is bridge the brown wire on the switch connector to the red/white. That should make the O/S window go down. Bridging the brown to the red/yellow should make the N/S window go down.

If the bypass test makes the windows go down then I think it's safe to say that the switches are faulty.

Jim.

[rabb5it]

Success! Thank you so much for your time Jim.

I bridged the door switch wires and both windows went down. I dismantled the switches and there was corrosion around the contacts. I'm annoyed at myself for not checking this before I spent a lot of time looking at other things. A lot of corrosion there considering that rain can not directly drip into the switch, must keep the door closed in the wet weather in future.

I cleaned the switch copper contacts and haven't regained full functionality, but I'm able to operate drivers window up and down & stop it midway. The passenger switch had no joy but I should be able to solder it to take the window down - it goes up on drivers switch. This is a huge improvement and gives me breathing space until I find a couple of working switches.

I flattened the battery playing with the electric windows. After a jump start the steering amber light came on, it's still on?

The ESP ABS light has also been on the last week, Rear Right according to my diagnostics, I replaced the sensor and hub/reluctor ring 14 months ago. I cleaned the reluctor ring and sensor but the lights still on.

The engine management light has been on since I bought the car 2 years ago, it's the Inlet Manifold flap, I've had the cover off and the mechanism is working free so it must be the motor, if I had another broken one, I'd try to fix it or make one out of the two, but I need it on to run the car. It's hard to justify a new one (copy) at £200 to extinguish a warning light. I seem to be having a lot of these niggly electrical problems with this car.

[Flash2]

I'm glad that bypass test worked for you.
I must apologize again for not fully reading your original post. If I had read that the windows would go up, I would have suggested the bypass test before wasting your time with other stuff.

The ABS/ESP & steering lights normally come on if the battery goes dead or has been disconnected. They usually do off after you drive a few yards. If they don't go off, you might have to run through the basic setting procedure for the steering angle sensor. Unless it's something to do with your ABS sensor fault, of course.

I had to take a look at a 1.9 Touran a few weeks back for a garage I work for. They had a trouble code relating to the manifold runner flap and said the code came back after they replaced the flap actuator. When I went to check it, I found they had replaced the intake flap actuator, not the manifold runner flap...DOOH! £200 for the wrong actuator I left before the gaffer got his hands on the mechanic that done the job.
Be careful with your trouble codes. You wouldn't want to make that mistake

Jim.

[foru2justnv]

Hi any help pls
Vw golf mk5 5 door. Drivers window was smashed and window switch stolen. Installed new window and new switch but can't get switches to respond. The rest of the door (side mirror, lock unlock, fuel cap etc works fine. It doesn't even illuminate. Checking the wiring connector all i can confirm is illumination wire is working and each window makes a click sound when positive side of tester connected. Thats all i can confirm. Any help in diagnosing or confirming what i should be seeing on which wires at the window switch connector

[Crasher]

Check the wiring in the door conduit (as I told you elsewhere) and start your own new thread, you will get a better result than giving CPR to one getting on for a decade old.