Engine mounts

**flat4fanatic** · 27-02-2015,11:23 PM

After it warms up the project Touran engine starts wobbling a lot. A lot more on the gearbox side. Thought I'd take advantage of the gsf money off offer this weekend but they only list a RH, (box shaped) rear (which seems fine) and lower mount which is circular. Is there another box shaped one hiding under the battery box etc that they don't list or is it just these three on the engine/box. It an 06 1.9 bxe.
cheers

**WillUK** · 28-02-2015,06:48 PM

touran mounts.jpg

round one is subframe bush, and two gearbox mounts either side

**Crasher** · 28-02-2015,08:30 PM

Side gearbox or engine mount failure is almost unheard of on this platform. I get a lot of PQ35 platform cars with engine wobble due to poor valve timing setting and dual mass flywheel failure. We had a Octavia 2 in last week where the engine has had a really bad case of the shakes at idle since we started looking after it around two years ago but there was nothing obvious and the owner never even mentioned it, I only noticed because I pick it up and take it back. Last week we did the cam belt and when I took it back that evening, the idle was perfect. I am waiting for her to ring up and say something.

**boomboomer** · 01-03-2015,09:58 AM

@Crasher my BKD 2009 Touran idled perfectly until recently, when the cambelt was replaced -when it's hot the idle is now very lumpy.

Can the valve timing be easily tested? I'd hate to take the cambelt off then find out it was actually the flywheel on the way out.

**Crasher** · 01-03-2015,10:51 PM

Checking the timing with the locking plate and pin is very easy. Once the V belt and lower pulley are off there is a slot in the lower tin where you can slide the tool through and lock the bottom and then remove the upper plastic cover and try the pin. As long as the tension looks OK down in the depths of the lower tin, you can undo the the cam pulley adjuster bolts, tweak the cam using the centre cam bolt but beware it MAY come undone if you turn it anti-clock (then it will have to be replaced after, no big deal) or you can use grips on the bolt heads to turn it anticlockwise. The setting is super fine, so much so that when I use my genuine VAG setting pin it is a much tighter and awkward fit than my Klann pin so I use the Klann one to get a feel for where it is and the genuine pin to fine tune it. The difference in OD of the two pins is less than 0.1-mm! We get seriously obsessive about this setting, so much so that we can spend an hour checking it and turning the engine over and over and re-checking so that without any compromises, the plate slides into the lower pulley teeth and into its receiver hole hole and the genuine pin just slides in perfectly.

**boomboomer** · 02-03-2015,11:59 AM

Wow, thanks for all the information but the cambelt kit was done by the dealer -can I assume they've taken the same care in setting mine?

I was hoping it was something they could test for without dismantling, as I've already got doubts about my flywheel.

**Crasher** · 02-03-2015,02:28 PM

You would hope they have done it as obsessively as we do but the dealer chaps are under time based bonus pressure and so.......

Only the poly V belt, wheel arch liner, upper cam belt cover and lower pulley have to be removed.

**flat4fanatic** · 02-03-2015,05:17 PM

Thanks Crasher, that's interesting. the cambelt was done in the last year. wonder if they didn't get it quite right.
DMF is a possibility too - there's a bit of a grinding every so often from the gearbox at idle which goes away when the clutch is pressed.
The perv owner had a recon gbox fitted and says she thinks they did the clutch and dmf at the same time but she's hopelessly disorganised with receipts etc
could the noise be due to rust build up on the surfaces as its been stood a while?
Thanks