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  1. 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Evening all, thought I'd post an update on my fault hunt - trying to resolve surging around 2000rpm, smoking when accelerating, general poor mpg, general lack of power. But runs "dandy" with the maf disconnected in default mode. Having already swapped MAFs and sanity cheked the readings, this has been disregarded, and I've pressure tested the inlet system to check for perished hoses, cracked ICs, etc. Found blocked egr nozzle (thanks Gupsterg!), which I cleaned out. It seriously reduced the maf readings, brought them on-spec at idle, but problems still remain.

    Wanting to rule out the egr, I removed it for inspection. It was actually curiously clean inside, the smallest film of soot/oil fouling - I somehow thought it was gonna be much worse.. tested operation by applying vacuum, and could see that the valve cracked at about 200mmHg, and was fully open at a little over 420mHg. Operated smoothly enough, closed willingly and proportionally to vac pressure as you'd expect. Obviously can't guarantee what it operates like when hot, but it looked A OK. Wasn't that easy to remove actually - don't know if this is unique to BMKs, but the egr was held on with two spline-head set screws. One I needed to use a 1/4" socket as a bit holder to access, because there was no clearance, and the right sized extension bar to be able to use a ratchet. Thought it was gonna shear off one of the 1/4" drive sections.. and that was the easy one. The lower fixing required a knuckle joint in the equation, which made torque harder to transmit, and keep applied squarely..needed to use a spanner for extra leverage on the ratchet, but it came off. Fair play to other posters who found this removal easy - I normally do OK, but thought this one was unexpectedly awkward!

    Obviously the manifold top section had to come off, here's what I could see in the lower sections..
    left bank.jpg100_1505.jpg

    Left side a little worse than the right, but I'm not too worried about this. I might be wrong to be dismissive - somebody tell me if this requires urgent attention =]

    Also, on the right, I found some pooled red stuff ..

    100_1513.jpg

    And I have no idea what this is. Perhaps an old coolant leak that wasn't properly cleaned up after. I'm not loosing any as far as I know..

    But not finding anything obviously wrong with the egr, I put it back on and did some drive testing. With the egr forced shut (control hose blanked), the car drove the same as ever. With it forced open, by applying manual vac pressure and trapping it with a valve, the car drove very differently indeed! Struggled to accelerate, no power at all, no pickup, undriveable! Now I know what a stuck open egr feels like! I partly releived some pressure (but left the egr cracked open) and was able to drive it back. By similar method, I tried forcing open/closed the cooling valve (behind the main egr), and test drove in both positions. No difference - wasn't sure what I was expecting.. But from this I'm concluding that the egr, at least the main valve, is doing what it's supposed to.

    As silly as this may seem, I tried running with the throttle body valve forced open, as I notice that it is left fully open in default running. The car actually had noticeably less power, so assume that this is doing it's job also. Didn't/haven't yet tried disconnecting the link rods on the manifold runners (to leave open) to see if that does anything..

    Changed out the map sensor today. Noticed that it does report back diffrently. At stop, it reports atmospheric pressure (today 100mPa), at idle just about (101/2). When driving, now builds upto 120ish and holds before surge, where it was 130ish before. Don't even think it's related to this sensor, but the intake temp seems to be a little higher also - it was never more than 4/5 degrees above ambient before, whereas within a few minutes of running i'm seeing 7 above.. this might be red herring tho. Took it for a quick test drive, and it did seem to smoke a little less. Still surges at the same engine RPM, takes a little longer to build up there, but no immediate plumes of smoke out the back, where as before there was a trail. On the return part, I tried to make it smoke by going WOT during the build-up to the surge, and I only a little smoke out the back was apparant this time.. Will confirm this with a test drive later by doing a regular trip - I know were it smokes..

    Even if the smoking is partly cured, the surging problem remains.

    One observation I have made is that when running with the maf disconnected, I still seem to register turbo boost. And in fact, it's the same boost pressure-to-engine rpm profile as I see when running with the maf in place. I thought that running in default mode should disable the turbo, yet I am definitly getting a pressure! Perhaps this only applies to vacuum operated turbos, not electric ones. Or is there some default position that the turbo goes into in default mode ? I'm wondering if the turbo mech isn't physically stuck in one operating position - specifically a position which generates boost at around the 2000rpm mark, and not much before.. I think I need to remove the turbo, but it doesn't look easy.. Reviewed the elsawin procedure, but it never tells you the full story =]

    Also got some glow plugs which need doing, numbers 2 and 4. These look to be the most difficult ones to access too, what I think is #2 is below the left bank fuel rail feed pipe, and #4, at the back of the right bank, is occluded by lots of hoses/wires. Elsawin doesn't say about removing pipes or manifolds to do this job - but access does not look easy for most plugs...

    Anyway, the work continues, I'm sure I'll bottom this one out in the end - one way or the other! Starting to run out of steam for car work though - cold weather isn't helping.. I'm still aware that it's been suggested before that one or more of my injectors might be failing, I'm still treating this as last resort! If I do manage to get the turbo off and find nothing wrong with it, I might have to give up and take it into a garage for diagnostics =/
    Last edited by edwardsj; 28-11-2014 at 01:16 PM.

    A6 2005 3.0 TDI Quattro Tiptronic - Only mod so far = Integrated DAB
    Octavia 1 2005 1.8 20v VRS - Rescue Project !
     
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  2. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardsj View Post
    Will confirm this with a test drive later by doing a regular trip - I know were it smokes..
    Well, she smoked in all the regular places on the trip - MAP was an unlikely defect..

    This morning I removed the wiring connectors to the turbo. Ran in immediate limp mode (flashing glow plug light), and built no turbo pressure. Attached connection for wastegate, same. Re-attached connection for turbo actuator, and it immediately started going nuts. It was moving very quickly between min and max travel, must have done this 100 times or so. So at least it looks like the actuator works.. kinda. Doesn't say anything about the internals though, the vanes could still be stuck, but with the turbo in fault the wastegate is probably held open - you wouldn't know if it was trying to build pressure...

    Perhaps removing the actuator link rod would confirm the above - or perhaps would be another waste of time =]

    I'm still not sure why I record boost pressure in default mode - pretty sure I shouldn't. I can't get over how much better the car actually runs with the maf disco'd - even pickup, better mpg (average 30ish for a trip - still not great), much much less smoke, goes up hills without any problems.. engine makes a slight tinny noise at some rev range because it's running lean (presumably), but that's about it. If I didn't need to get an MOT done next month I would just run it without the maf full time.. but it'll never get an MOT with the maf disconnected, or the amount of smoke it makes.

    A6 2005 3.0 TDI Quattro Tiptronic - Only mod so far = Integrated DAB
    Octavia 1 2005 1.8 20v VRS - Rescue Project !
     
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  3. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardsj View Post
    Wasn't that easy to remove actually - don't know if this is unique to BMKs, but the egr was held on with two spline-head set screws.
    Mines the same ...

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardsj View Post
    Fair play to other posters who found this removal easy - I normally do OK, but thought this one was unexpectedly awkward!
    I gave up when the bits/adapter combo I was using was not allowing me to turn bolts with them squarely fitted ...

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardsj View Post
    Left side a little worse than the right, but I'm not too worried about this. I might be wrong to be dismissive - somebody tell me if this requires urgent attention =]
    Considering your on 120k not bad IMO as your left side looks about the same as mine which had done about 75k miles at the time IIRC but does make mine look even worse now! LOL

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardsj View Post
    Also got some glow plugs which need doing, numbers 2 and 4. These look to be the most difficult ones to access too, what I think is #2 is below the left bank fuel rail feed pipe, and #4, at the back of the right bank, is occluded by lots of hoses/wires. Elsawin doesn't say about removing pipes or manifolds to do this job - but access does not look easy for most plugs...
    I found them a PITA to do, some didn't but I think the ones that didn't they could have possibly had the 2nd style of fuel rail, 1/4 tools also aided others ...
     
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  4. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Hey Gup, thanks for the replies - glad I'm not the only one who thought it was awkward getting in there ! And given what the glow plugs look like, and your commentary, I might leave them until I get some energy for car work back.

    Interesting experiment this morning - and I almost couldn't believe the results - but I popped the intake manifold runner link rods off the motors and cable tied them in the approximate resting position as below. Didn't do a very neat/good job of it, but then I thought I'd be taking them off in a matter of minutes...

    100_1515.jpg100_1516.jpg

    When I first pulled off, the car was so responsive I had to pull over and check that I hadn't left the MAF off - I hadn't. Didn't wanna jump to any conclusions, I've been caught out by first observations/cold running effects/etc before. I drove it around the block, was fine actually, stopped to check that my links hadn't moved, so went around again to warm it up a little. I then went for a little trip on a main road out to the motorway junction and back - the car would normally experience a hesitation/surge effect when accelerating up to running speed, but instead picked up smoothly.. I couldn't beleive it. Drove back on CC, and for a change it was managing better mpg than I could manually - previouslu unseen on this car!

    To do a second test, I thought I'd show it some hills. To my amazement, I can now accelerate up hills without any refusal, without a run-up or holding the engine rpm up or anything. And the MPG from the test run was over 30 - usually the same run comes back at about 20...

    It is genuinely like driving a different car - like it is with the MAF disconnected, but better..

    Does this mean I have issues with the manifolds/runners/actuators, or am I really just making another problem entirely ? My head hurts from all this scratching!

    Need to double confirm the above with my usual test trip, been caught out before =] But this is the first encouraging result I've had yet.

    A6 2005 3.0 TDI Quattro Tiptronic - Only mod so far = Integrated DAB
    Octavia 1 2005 1.8 20v VRS - Rescue Project !
     
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  5. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Well, a 20 mile trip with a steep hill in it seems to confirm that it's running much happier.. And I got 38mpg for the trip - it's usually sub-30 as well as being done without traffic..

    Also check,
    * no smoke at all
    * no hesitation/power surge
    * engine no longer shakes if I rev it with the car stationary

    Of course, my car is fine til I go over a bump and jostle the rods out of position, but I think I've really found something here. Just need to work out what the long term fix is. Don't know if this is the sort of thing cleaning will take care of, whether I need new motors, or whether I need to renew the internals. Iirc the gaskets underneath can't be replaced seperatly, so might need new Mani's anyway..

    A6 2005 3.0 TDI Quattro Tiptronic - Only mod so far = Integrated DAB
    Octavia 1 2005 1.8 20v VRS - Rescue Project !
     
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  6. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Well, I'm going in today for a closer look. Pre-flight tho, I started it warm and reved it a little. No shake, reved up quickly actually.. Then reconnected the link rods and repeated. Shake was back.. Disconnected the maf, same result.

    There were two stored pending codes when I looked last night from running around without the link rods, presumably because the motor has spring-wound back behind it's stored starting position. These cleared when reconnected.

    I'm just hoping that my engine wasn't running in a different "default" mode without these links in place, fooling me into thinking that I'd found the defect.. but time will tell. I figure that removing the flaps and rebuilding would confirm. I'll post updates =]

    A6 2005 3.0 TDI Quattro Tiptronic - Only mod so far = Integrated DAB
    Octavia 1 2005 1.8 20v VRS - Rescue Project !
     
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  7. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    They're off... took longer than expected considering it's 8 bolts a side and I've disturbed everything else before.. Always does longer first time tho, next time will/would be quicker..

    Lessons learnt :
    * you do need to remove the steel fuel lines - I tried hard not to
    * pulling glow plug connectors helped free some space
    * as did removing the egr, and vac valve at the front oif the car
    * there's two coolant lines that are secured to the manifolds - 1 per side. I needed a socket on a wobble bar four the left, socket on a knuckle joint for the right. The right one was very tricky, I had to put the socket on with pliers, then go in with the square drive. Left the bloody things in there for later reassembly! Only loosened enough to get a little play

    Underneath the right hand unit I found oily residue, the left was clean. Think this is giving me some indication of where to start looking now the units are off.

    On a side note, I couldn't see any red, or indeed white markings on the glow plugs. Might go out and get a picture, but I brought some red/metal ones to replace two apparently dead ones - not sure if I have the right ones now, or if somnebody in the past has fitted some s*** plugs

    A6 2005 3.0 TDI Quattro Tiptronic - Only mod so far = Integrated DAB
    Octavia 1 2005 1.8 20v VRS - Rescue Project !
     
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  8. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Three pictures of different glow plugs.. if anybody can help identify =]


    100_1517.jpg100_1518.jpg100_1519.jpg

    Also, this just happened, the gas strut for the bonnet has given up ! What a time for that to give out !!

    A6 2005 3.0 TDI Quattro Tiptronic - Only mod so far = Integrated DAB
    Octavia 1 2005 1.8 20v VRS - Rescue Project !
     
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  9. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Is that pooled red stuff near an engine mount. You may have a failed mount and it is leaking the elastermeric fluid. Regards Peter
     
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  10. Re: 2005 3.0 BMK TDI - Ongoing Investigation... 
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    Does this thread help Which Glow Plugs for 3.0TDI (BMK)
     
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