2001 Allroad 2.5tdi AKE timing belt tensioner failure

[zollaf]

that stud is in a right old state. overtightened perhaps ?

[boatingcow]

Good work so far! If you're looking for company when you get round to doing the timing, I'd be keen to look over your shoulder for some tips. I need to do the timing belt at some point on mine. Had an AKE in an A4 before, but never had it long enough to get in at the front end. I'm based near Fort William, so would be happy to drive up!

[skyegtb]

Good work so far! If you're looking for company when you get round to doing the timing, I'd be keen to look over your shoulder for some tips. I need to do the timing belt at some point on mine. Had an AKE in an A4 before, but never had it long enough to get in at the front end. I'm based near Fort William, so would be happy to drive up!

Hi Mate, I am not going to have a set time when I will do the timing belt but I can easily supply you with the workshop manual description of the job if you like?

[skyegtb]

Well, got my 'new' engine today..... and am now no further ahead than I was when the engine broke! Basically, I stripped the engine down to inspect the camshafts and then I removed the timing belt etc. Everything was looking good (the engine appeared to have had a recent timing belt kit fitted and new water pump etc - everything was shiny!) until I undid the same fekin bolt on the tensioner pulley which had caused the original problem with my old engine. On the new engine the bolt felt very 'soft' and loose when I started to loosen it and it came out less smooth than other bolts on the flange. On inspection when the bolt was removed, I noted it had taken almost all of the thread from the hole in the flange with it, just like on the old engine. I am beginning to think there must be some inherent issue with these flanges that they get damaged threads during the first timing belt tensioner change on the car! Either that or it is just super bad luck on my part. Anyway, not one to give up I have ordered a new flange and some crank and cam seals and will give this new engine a good overhaul. I already purchased a complete timing belt kit in the hope it would have been all this engine would require!

I have some more questions, firstly regarding the camshafts. On inspection they all looked to be perfect, no signs of wear at all, and it was not until I looked at the photos I took that I noticed one of them was made of cast steel and the others were the original hollow type. I will assume here that the cast cam is hopefully a new genuine part - what do you think? Next, I note that on both intake cams there appears to be some heat marks next to the cam lobes. Is that normal or is it an indication of some other issues like poor lubrication? I am wondering why this engine has already had a new cam.

Next question: The new engine had an automatic gearbox and my car is a manual. I see that on the rear end of the crankshaft on the new engine there is a dowel pressed in to the end of the crank to accommodate the auto-box. I need to remove this to fit my flywheel back on. What is the best way to remove this? Here are some pictures: - I put in 1 picture of the old engine crankshaft end and one of the new for comparison.

[ametlib]

Eighter you have balls or skills . You gonna need both before this is finished.
Ok, first, the lobes on the hollow cams are crimped on the shaft when they are damn hot so blue color is normal. Second, just as the 1st gen. cams for 2,5 tdi the hollow cams had their issues.The lobes actually loosened from the shafts, so the 3rd gen. cams
were solid and replaced the hollow cams ( and I guess it's one of those you have)
About the flange with the damage threads I don't believe it's anything wrong with them, I suspect the problem is that the bolt have a rather big diameter in the front ( and as we all know, there are greasemonkeys out there with a lot of muscles and no torque wrench)
Since you are changing the flange you'll also need a new crankshaft bolt and a timing pin/ counterhold to keep the crank in place when you torque the bolt to approx. 520 nm !!

[skyegtb]

Eighter you have balls or skills . You gonna need both before this is finished.
Ok, first, the lobes on the hollow cams are crimped on the shaft when they are damn hot so blue color is normal. Second, just as the 1st gen. cams for 2,5 tdi the hollow cams had their issues.The lobes actually loosened from the shafts, so the 3rd gen. cams
were solid and replaced the hollow cams ( and I guess it's one of those you have)
About the flange with the damage threads I don't believe it's anything wrong with them, I suspect the problem is that the bolt have a rather big diameter in the front ( and as we all know, there are greasemonkeys out there with a lot of muscles and no torque wrench)
Since you are changing the flange you'll also need a new crankshaft bolt and a timing pin/ counterhold to keep the crank in place when you torque the bolt to approx. 520 nm !!

Thanks again for the comments! I have ordered all the bits I need to replace the flange and also a set of crank and cam seals and a few other gaskets. I also made sure to order anew bolt a per the workshop manual advice. I am currently making up a brace for the crank involving a 90cm long length of 50mm flat bar and some holes drilled to fit over the crank bolt. I thought about just using the crank locking pin but worry that I might end up shearing it.
I will update when I make some progress but I bought the bits I needed from Germany so will probably have to wait 1 week for delivery which is going to slow things up

[ametlib]

Good thinking ! I dont trust the locking pin from the timing kit eighter, so I have my own made from the large screw that keeps the front springs in place on a vw transporter ! Have not yet broke and I guess it never will, anyway takes a lot less time to make
than a brace . When you change the flywheels, I assume you know about the 6 pins in them and they have to be in the exact same position as before ( at least some of the aut. flywheels have no guide)292.jpg

[skyegtb]

Good thinking ! I dont trust the locking pin from the timing kit eighter, so I have my own made from the large screw that keeps the front springs in place on a vw transporter ! Have not yet broke and I guess it never will, anyway takes a lot less time to make
than a brace . When you change the flywheels, I assume you know about the 6 pins in them and they have to be in the exact same position as before ( at least some of the aut. flywheels have no guide)292.jpg

My car is a 6 spd manual with 8 bolts holding the dual mass flywheel on, I presume you are talking about the automatics?