2010 Polo Remote Central Locking (Replacement/Installation)

[Anthonygee68]

Hi Roger, I hope you don't mind me jumping on this thread? I've just fitted an rclick unit to my 2011 6r which is working fine but I want to wire the windows to close, did you do this and if so, could you let me know which wire I need to connect on the door pillar? Thanks in advance bud. Ant

[Woo85]

Hi buddy

So my keyfobs for the rclick have stopped working.
I’ve tried everything to get them working.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

[funkyfin2000]

Hi buddy

So my keyfobs for the rclick have stopped working.
I’ve tried everything to get them working.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

Same issue! One stopped working and eventually the next one too! This is what RCLICK said to me....

Remote setup – coding – OF NEW REMOTES
For Remote Central Lock and Remote Keyless System:
Follow the below steps to add or delete a new transmitter.

1. On the side of the control unit there is a tiny push switch
2. Press the switch for couple of seconds *before pressing the switch - make sure the unit power is connected
3. Keep the switch pressed.
4. Press the lock key on one of the remotes and the unlock key for the other remotes. This step has to be done straight after step 2!.
You must do this for all remotes!!! As it cancels any existing remotes… This is for security reason!
5. That’s it, wait few seconds and then test both remotes!

If the remote did not get any new codes within 10 seconds, the system will exit learning mode automatically.
Note: once entered into code learning mode, all previously learned remotes will be cleared.

[adrian1964]

Finally got around to fitting a Rightclick remote kit to my daughter’s 2011 6R Polo. I have had this kit since my wife bought the car in 2012 but was defeated by the instructions. We have just bought a new car for wife and given the Polo to daughter, so decided to revisit the challenge. Thanks to this thread I have sucessfully managed to install it, but with a few differences which I only found by trial and error, so thought I would put them on record here in case it proves useful for somebody else.

My driver’s door wiring did not quite follow the pattern described earlier, which means there are likely differences according to manufacture.

My ground (thick brown) was on Pin 22 and my Battery Positive (thick red/yellow) was on Pin 23. Having failed to get the thing to work attaching the locking wire to either Pin 20 or Pin 11 this made me start trying different pins and I finally got it to work on Pin 19.

It is likely the colour of the wires that is important rather than the pin numbers they are on.

So my arrangement was as follows:

Ground
Rightclick wires Yellow, Yellow/Black, and Black all connected together and then spliced into the Brown wire on Pin 22.

Positive
Rightclick wire Red spliced into the Red/Yellow wire on Pin 23.

Locking
Rightclick wire White spliced into the Green/Yellow wire on Pin 19.

Unlocking
Rightclick wire White/Black attatched to a 180 Ohm resistor and then also spliced into the Green/Yellow wire on Pin 19

And that was it.

There was no need to connect the brown indicator wires since the car takes care of this and flahes the indicators automatically on receiving a locking or unlocking signal. I did initially connect them to the Black/Green on Pin 3 and it works, but ends up with more flashes! Don’t connect unless you need to.

I found the T-Tap connecters to be very useful. Clamp on the three wires required in the driver’s door, and then add the Rightclick wires using a male spade connector.