Throttle body eml still on

[Skullkilla]

Hi had eml come on and garage scanned and said it's the throttle body. Being able to do some stuff I bought a new one and fitted it then bought a tool to clear the light.
After fault cleared took it for a run and light came back on 😞. I had a maf fail 2 years ago so I bought and swapped this too and cleared codes.
Light came back on. It's cost me £200 so far and I'm pulling my hair out. Anyone got any idea please
mk5 2.0 tdi gt 2005 One this says could be fuse but all are ok. Another says wiring but another says near impossible for it to be wiring. Please help someone

[Guest 2]

Welcome.

You need to see which fault is bringing the EML back on.

[Skullkilla]

Welcome.

You need to see which fault is bringing the EML back on.

Same 3 as it started off as all point to throttle body

[amuk]

I am having the same problem and tearing my hair out.

Can anyone help??

Its a 2007 Golf TDI 2.0 (BKD). MIL came on, I connected up my diagnostics. They pointed to the Intake Manifold Flap valve. Cleared the code, and it kept coming back.

Decided to replace the Intake Manifold Flap valve at a cost of £160. It didn't take too long. Reset the codes, and rescanned. Same error as before? see below.

I've visually checked all the wiring that I can see in the engine bay, no signs of any damage. Any thoughts on what the cause might be? I am wondering now whether there is an ECM issue. Getting out of my depth.

Any advice, or pointers as to what to do next would be very welcome. Recommendations for who can fix it would also be welcomed.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-016-BKD.lbl
Part No SW: 03G 906 021 PP HW: 03G 906 021 AN
Component: R4 2,0L EDC 000SG 4661
Revision: --H07--- Serial number: VWX7Z0G63NG0Y3
Coding: 0000072
Shop #: WSC 00231 210 88487


2 Faults Found
012546 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal
P3102 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 126121 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:28:52


Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.31 V
Bin. Bits: 00000100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 351.4 Nm


001681 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
P0691 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 126121 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:28:59


Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.31 V
Bin. Bits: 00000100
Temperature: 18.9°C
Duty Cycle: 9.7 %


Readiness: 0 0 0 0 1


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Skullkilla]

I am having the same problem and tearing my hair out.

Can anyone help??

Its a 2007 Golf TDI 2.0 (BKD). MIL came on, I connected up my diagnostics. They pointed to the Intake Manifold Flap valve. Cleared the code, and it kept coming back.

Decided to replace the Intake Manifold Flap valve at a cost of £160. It didn't take too long. Reset the codes, and rescanned. Same error as before? see below.

I've visually checked all the wiring that I can see in the engine bay, no signs of any damage. Any thoughts on what the cause might be? I am wondering now whether there is an ECM issue. Getting out of my depth.

Any advice, or pointers as to what to do next would be very welcome. Recommendations for who can fix it would also be welcomed.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-016-BKD.lbl
Part No SW: 03G 906 021 PP HW: 03G 906 021 AN
Component: R4 2,0L EDC 000SG 4661
Revision: --H07--- Serial number: VWX7Z0G63NG0Y3
Coding: 0000072
Shop #: WSC 00231 210 88487


2 Faults Found
012546 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal
P3102 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 126121 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:28:52


Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.31 V
Bin. Bits: 00000100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 351.4 Nm


001681 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
P0691 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 126121 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:28:59


Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.31 V
Bin. Bits: 00000100
Temperature: 18.9°C
Duty Cycle: 9.7 %


Readiness: 0 0 0 0 1


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

i had had same issue. Check fuses under bonnet. I checked mine and all was ok but I checked a second time and one fuse had blown next to a relay that's for the fan. It controls the flap but it does not tell you on fuse layout

[amuk]

i had had same issue. Check fuses under bonnet. I checked mine and all was ok but I checked a second time and one fuse had blown next to a relay that's for the fan. It controls the flap but it does not tell you on fuse layout

Hi thanks for prompt response. Yes I've been through all the fuses in the fuse box and they all look fine. I will triple check and verify fuse continuity with a meter and also check the wiring under the fuse box. Any other ideas, are there any relevant fuses elsewhere in the vehicle?

Thanks

[Skullkilla]

Hi thanks for prompt response. Yes I've been through all the fuses in the fuse box and they all look fine. I will triple check and verify fuse continuity with a meter and also check the wiring under the fuse box. Any other ideas, are there any relevant fuses elsewhere in the vehicle?

Thanks

Check relay too.
My fuse looked fine it was only when I removed it that I found it broke at the bottom next to the plastic

[amuk]

Check relay too.
My fuse looked fine it was only when I removed it that I found it broke at the bottom next to the plastic

Good news. I have now fixed the problem. It was indeed Fuse 24. It was one of the first places I originally checked. It looked fine - i couldn't see any break in it, but when I tested it on the multimeter, it was open loop. Replaced Fuse 24 with another 10 amp fuse and went for a drive. The MIL turned off on its own, and the engine now stops smoothly instead of shuddering. I got my USB microscope out to investigate and there was a hairline fracture between the fuse leg and the 'filament'. Cant see it with naked eye, or maybe my eyesight is not as good as it was

I had also discounted the fuse, because when I had my multimeter on the harness connector for the flap valve I was seeing 12V. I guess the moral of the story is, things do not always appear as they seem!

Thanks for your help.

Andy

[Skullkilla]

Good news. I have now fixed the problem. It was indeed Fuse 24. It was one of the first places I originally checked. It looked fine - i couldn't see any break in it, but when I tested it on the multimeter, it was open loop. Replaced Fuse 24 with another 10 amp fuse and went for a drive. The MIL turned off on its own, and the engine now stops smoothly instead of shuddering. I got my USB microscope out to investigate and there was a hairline fracture between the fuse leg and the 'filament'. Cant see it with naked eye, or maybe my eyesight is not as good as it was

I had also discounted the fuse, because when I had my multimeter on the harness connector for the flap valve I was seeing 12V. I guess the moral of the story is, things do not always appear as they seem!

Thanks for your help.

Andy

It took took me a month to sort mine and also hours on different sites. Glad I could help.

[ToBe]

Hi Andy,

Where is the #24 fuse located? I have the same problem.

Thanks

Tommie