Help to remove EGR valve please

[WhiteA6]

Hi,

I am trying to remove my EGR valve to check and clean it but I cannot figure out how to get it off. I have removed the plastic motor cover and the three retaining bolts I can see but it is still solid. Am I missing a bolt? Can anyone shed light on the correct procedure? I don't want to start prising it in-case I have missed a fixing somewhere. Pics below. Car is a 2010 A6 3.0TDi (CDY). Thank you.

[Guest 2]

Have you done a search?

I'm 100% sure this has been explained somewhere on here before

[gupsterg]

Hi,

I am trying to remove my EGR valve to check and clean it but I cannot figure out how to get it off. I have removed the plastic motor cover and the three retaining bolts I can see but it is still solid. Am I missing a bolt? Can anyone shed light on the correct procedure? I don't want to start prising it in-case I have missed a fixing somewhere. Pics below. Car is a 2010 A6 3.0TDi (CDY). Thank you.

I think discussions have been on the 3 letter code V6 TDi and not the newer 4 letter one.

I'm sure Chris will send you a PDF from ELSA regarding procedure , then you can upload a tutorial 4 others

[dan2485]

In elsa it says remove the electrical plug, then undo the 3 bolts and detach the EGR motor V338.
on refitting renew the o ring so i guess it's just tight on the old one.
The bolts are tightened to 9Nm on refitting.

[WhiteA6]

Thanks for your replies.

I tried a few searches but could only find information on the round-top EGR (vacuum type I think) not the Motor type I seem to have.

Once I get it apart, I will take some photos and post them up

[dan2485]

post up your exact engine/gearbox code and i will have another look.

[gupsterg]

Hi peeps ,

The valve is still in cooler, held in by say force/O-Ring?

Please view images below ...

EGR valve 1.jpg

EGR valve 2.jpg

Above is 059 131 502 B

From WhiteA6's photo blue boxes are screws for EGR valve/motor cover , red boxes are EGR valve/motor screws to cooler.



All the best
Gup

[WhiteA6]

Hi all,

Thanks again for all your help.

Yes, it was just the 6 bolts to remove.

- 3 small torx bolts to take off plastic cover (with the electrical connector attached) as shown in blue on above photo
- then 3 larger torx bolts holding the EGR valve to the cooler, shown in red above

I had undone all these bolts on my first attempt but had stopped due to the EGR valve still being solid and I assumed I had missed a bolt somewhere. Feeling more confident I had everything removed this time, I gently tapped the EGR valve with a rubber hammer and small piece of wood. It took a good 20 or 30 taps moving between sides (I was being pretty cautious) until the valve came loose.

Here are some pics:




I purchased a new O-ring seal from Audi during the week as a precaution (£3.94) but the original was in very good condition so did not use it. I have it ready for next time.

Now...I have another question. As you can see in these pictures, without power attached the EGR valve is closed. Yet when I connect it to the car and run a VCDS output test, the valve opens (VCDS shows OPEN), then almost closes but remains 1mm open still (VCDS shows CLOSED). Once the output test has finished, and VCDS moves on to the next component, the valve closes fully. Is this correct? Should the valve still be slightly open when VCDS say it is closed?

I have taken a video of the cycle and will try to get this on Youtube during the week.

Thanks,

[dan2485]

You should replace the o ring

[WhiteA6]

Here is a link to the EGR valve video I mentioned above. Not sure if it should be closing fully during the test but it does not.

When the test finishes and the valve is no longer energised, it closes tightly but while the test is running, the 'closed' position stays open by about 1mm.

Audi A6 3.0TDi 2010 EGR operation with VCDS software - YouTube