98 ADR Passat 1.8 Non-Turbo Wont Start

[matthart]

Hi Guys,

I've just inherited an ADR engine R reg Passat 1.8 non turbo that wont start.

So far I've changed the coilpack, the leads and plugs were recent, and all plugs are showing a large healthy spark.

It seems to be overfuelling drastically because when cranking normally it coughs back as i presume its unable to compress the fuel in the cylinder.
When the injectors are disconnected, it can turn over fine (thought obviously it wont start). With the airbox removed, when cranking you get a fine mist coming from the inlet to the throttle.

I suppose it's also possible it could be water in the cylinder but its not showing any signs of head gasket failure.

I've tried unplugging the CTS and MAF sensors (as I've heard these can be tetchy) and it behaves exactly the same

I'm at a loss, and hoping someone with some VW knowledge can help!

Thanks,
Matt.

[Crasher]

You must start with a fault code read but unfortunately now you have unplugged the AMM and CTS it will initially be meaningless. The first read should be printed out and then the faults deleted. Then try starting the car again and then do another read to see what comes back and whatever (if anything) does return you can trust this as being real. Even if no codes come up on the second read that is still helpful as it eliminates anything the ECU can see.

[matthart]

Ah. Can you recommend a fault code reader?

[Crasher]

If you own a lap top, buy yourself a decent VAG-COM cable from fleaBay (not too cheap) and download the shareware software from the Ross Tech web site. This is pretty basic but will allow you to read fault codes. If you want to take it a little further (and to be honest the minimum spec I would recommend) you can register your software with Ross Tech for $99 and this will give you fully functioning VAG-COM 409 (still years out of date though) but this is plenty good enough for your current car and will allow the crucial throttle body reset you are going to require at some point, a job that could cost you £30 to £60 to have performed at a garage so saving you the cost of the registered software in one go.

[matthart]

Going for this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=230335003811
unless that won't be good enough?

If that cable is OK, will update when I have some codes.

Cheers!

[Crasher]

I don’t know, I only use genuine Ross Tech cables but they cost £220+.

[matthart]

Right, hope to drag this back to the top and get some more help.

I've got a vag-com cable and did a fault code reading, obviously had loads where I had been fiddling so did a reset and tried to start it again. This time only got
Coolant temp sensor - implausible signal.

So been to my local dealers and purchased and replace coolant sensor, this fault code has now got and is not returning.

The engine will now eventually start, but it is still overfuelling badly. Do i need to reset something?
I'm not getting any fault codes from the engine.
It seems to be misfiring all the way through the range and absolutely stinks of unburnt petrol.

I'd appreciate any ideas you may have!

Thanks,
Matt

[Crasher]

You obviously have plenty of fuel so you have a poor spark but from that I am surprised you have no codes. Will it warm up and idle properly without you revving it up?

[matthart]

I've had the plugs out and though they are a little black as to be expected with overfuelling, they are all producing a very healthy large spark. As they should because the coil, leads and plugs are all recent.

It will idle at 1k but its coughing and spluttering at that. I've not let it warm up because the amount of fuel coming out the back is a bit terrifying and I don't want to run it like that for long.

Next up is a set of injectors in case one of them is stuck open somehow, then maybe a MAF and Lambda.

As I've got no fault codes, I'm also beginning to think head gasket. Was that what where you were going with letting it warm up?

Thanks,
Matt

[Crasher]

I was wondering if the coolant temp sender was lying, they don’t always come up as faulty, you have to check the reading in measuring bocks to see if it makes sense.