Mpg how do you rate yours.

[maisbitt]

at your comments above.

As for the link, shocked!!!!!. Sounds like a waste of time & money.
Reaches for a thread about the snake oil TBC.......

Most things that sound too good to be true by the people peddling them usually are, or everyone would be doing it. Nitrogen filling seems handiest for those who never check their tyre pressures. Lots of people peddling things with big claims - just look at tuning boxes. 230PS from a 184PS TDI (yes it's easily doable), but 230PS and 20% gains in mpg (as most of them claim)?

Why aren't VW building them like that? Imagine what the emissions would be like on a 230PS 80mpg GTD, and imagine how many they would sell. I'm actually tempted by a tuning box for the potential extra power on tap, but best case scenario is your mpg stays the same because you don't use that extra reserve of power. I do wonder how much long term damage can be done by ramping up the fuelling pressure on the same injectors and turbo.

With Millers i'm ensuring that no matter where I get my diesel, it has a decent dose of additives that we expect in premium fuel, for what amounts to adding 1.2p per litre of fuel. I've seen my mpg go up a little (which might have as much to do with ditching V-power diesel as it does with adding the Millers), and idling is definitely quieter and smoother, especially on a cold start. I thought it was worth a shot given my poor mpg start in the GTD.

[mjhamilton]

Here's the thing about nitrogen and the failings when implemented by local garages

Why nitrogen? Nitrogen contains no water/moisture, it is actually this You are trying to avoid as water expands and contracts with heat - in effect your tyres pressures will vary with heat from the road or outside ambient temp which of course will affect wear and economy

Why a kwik fit job is pointless and a waste of time?
Remember the moisture bit? This is the whole purpose of using nitrogen over normal air - how many tyre fitters do you see doing the following?
- use a dryer to heat the wheel and inside of the tyre to remove all moisture traces
- do the initial fit in a nitrogen chamber or use a vacuum to remove all traces of air and moisture from the ambient environment

I say none - so basically when the tyre is fitted to the wheel it already contains a large quantity of moisture from the ambient environment

So pouring nitrogen into the remaining space it not going to eradicate the issue

So from my experience of driving and checking pressures during hard and soft activities changes in pressure still happen so on that one I call snake oil

[rapport25]

Most things that sound too good to be true by the people peddling them usually are, or everyone would be doing it. Nitrogen filling seems handiest for those who never check their tyre pressures. Lots of people peddling things with big claims - just look at tuning boxes. 230PS from a 184PS TDI (yes it's easily doable), but 230PS and 20% gains in mpg (as most of them claim)?

Why aren't VW building them like that? Imagine what the emissions would be like on a 230PS 80mpg GTD, and imagine how many they would sell. I'm actually tempted by a tuning box for the potential extra power on tap, but best case scenario is your mpg stays the same because you don't use that extra reserve of power. I do wonder how much long term damage can be done by ramping up the fuelling pressure on the same injectors and turbo.

With Millers i'm ensuring that no matter where I get my diesel, it has a decent dose of additives that we expect in premium fuel, for what amounts to adding 1.2p per litre of fuel. I've seen my mpg go up a little (which might have as much to do with ditching V-power diesel as it does with adding the Millers), and idling is definitely quieter and smoother, especially on a cold start. I thought it was worth a shot given my poor mpg start in the GTD.

How you getting on with the Millers?. Just purchased some for our recent 2nd hand purchase. Dont know what fuel its been run on etc...... My passat has only ever run on shell diesel for 5 yrs plus forte fuel & engine treatment every service.

[maisbitt]

My car is noticeably better, but how much is down to the Millers and how much is down to ditching the Shell V-power for normal is unclear. I am going to try a tank of fuel without additions and see how the first 50 miles go. The car is slightly smoother and quieter at idle, which I would directly attribute to the Millers at this stage.

[skymaster]

My wife recently picked up her new company car MK7 GT TDI (150) manual and so far we've put about 800 miles on the clock and been pretty unimpressed with the MPG. Even on a 160 mile motorway run we never got above 45 and that was in eco mode! I can achieve that in my 3.0 TDI A4, maybe even better! and we took her car to save fuel. Has anyone experienced the MPG improving as the engine wears in? She still thinks her old 1.4 petrol Hyundai i20 was more economical.

[dickt]

Mine's a MK7 GT TDI (150) DSG and now has 9000 on the clock. In early days it did about 42mpg. (Winter/Spring) It got up to 45 mpg over the Summer. Over the last 1,000 miles it is back to 42mpg. (Winter). Mostly in eco mode. I've tested the computerised mpg by using top-up to top-up mpg tests, and the computer is pretty accurate on mine.

Do not buy this car for mpg reasons! My Mk 7 170 DSG gave 45 mpg all year round, with no eco nonsense, and much quicker reactions.

[skymaster]

Mmmm, unimpressive... I wonder if they are sacrificing performance and MPG for the nonsensical CO2 figure. Probably why she has one as a company car in the first place ;-) You would think that after 13 years since those first PD diesel golfs emerged things would be a bit more advanced. Sadly not

[pango1in]

I would echo Dickt on the MPG point. Mine's not quite as bad, apart from over Christmas when motorway driving to relatives only got me 45mpg...

Yes the CO2 values are low, but the MPG is also supposed to be about 67 combined, 76 extra urban and 55 urban.

If you look at my Fuelly log, you can see what sort of real world mpg I have achieved. I have never had a car that didn't reach the urban cycle on motorway journeys or tanks used mainly for motorway driving. All my cars would push or exceed combined on motorway journeys (though granted would never get close to extra-urban, which is fair enough).

[maisbitt]

One thing I can say about my MK7 GTD (manual) is that Eco is a complete waste of time for me. My car is thirstier in Eco than it is in Sport, and in fact Sport is my most economical setting. I have more lower end grunt in Sport, which is negated by the need to rein in the power in the lower gears due to the abysmal grip from the OEM Bridgestone Potenza tyres. My car is more responsive in the upper gears in Normal, but thirstier for it.

The only big thing that has changed for the MK7 TDI it seems is the inclusion of stop-start to boost the EU cycle results. When the testing cycle has the car at a standstill for 24% of the test cycle, having stop-start switch off the engine during these stationary periods gives a huge boost to test mpg and CO/CO2/NOx emission results. The engines themselves seems to be no better than those fitted in the MK6 range. If you could slap a start-stop system onto a MK6 GTD I suspect that it would be pretty much matching the MK7 on the test run, as it does now in real-world driving where (in my experience) the stop-start system is rarely utilised for significant periods of stoppage. The tests bear little resemblance to real driving (who has an 11 minute commute for which they spend 24% of it going nowhere?).

My MFD indicated mileage is about 3% optimistic and my car achieves an overall average (indicated) of 44.5mpg right now on my 12 mile (each way) commute. When the car is not undergoing a DPF regen (which it seems to be doing for about 1/5 of my mileage) I can average about 47mpg on the way to work, and about 41mpg when it is undergoing a regen. When my commute increases a little to 16 miles, the regens get less frequent and I can get to 50mpg for the trip. I got 53mpg maintaining 80mph on a 75 mile round trip on dual carriageway recently.

The MK7 GTD's water gets to 90C in about 4 miles, but it takes 8 miles for the oil to get to 90C. My oil used to be up to temp in 6 miles in my 170TDI Scirocco. The car takes a far bigger proportion of my commute journey to get to temp which not only hinders my mpg directly, but indirectly also as a diesel car that spends less time at optimum temp spends more time generating soot and then more time undergoing regen to combust it. I never had a single active regen in the 30 months I had my Scirocco (they were all passive regens which don't significantly alter your mpg), now it's a weekly occurrence.

My car hasn't improved appreciably in 3200 miles, beyond the initia improvement seen 0-500 miles. My dad had his first service on his GTD DSG 2 weeks ago and at 11k miles on, he hasn't seen any appreciable gains either - he does a consistent 47mpg, but has a longer commute than me and does 20k miles a year (I do about half that). My 170TDI Scirocco could always exceed urban published values and almost always exceed combined figures for a journey exceeding 20 miles, and it was driven considerably harder than my GTD.

Some of the MK6ers on the GTI forum that had Bridgestones fitted to their GTIs and GTDs saw 10% gains in mpg when switching to Michelins. The Bridgestone (like I have) have extremely poor grip in all but the driest conditions and are very bad for rolling resistance. Could very non-eco tyres like Bridgestone Potenzas be a common link for all of us seeing the worst mpg?

When some people see a miraculous step-up in fuel economy between 10 and 20k miles, it makes me wonder whether the improvement coincides with their changing the front tyres due to wear.

[Pommyboi]

I don't find my car too bad on the motorway, over the summer months I managed to get averages of 57 - 59mpg across the tank a number of times. What I struggle to understand sometimes is the wild variation from one week to the next when I'm doing similar drives on the motorway.

Now the MPG is dropping fast because the car is only used for shorter trips bar once or twice a month.