A3 new clutch

[pugwash59]

I have just replaced the gearbox after repair and I fitted a new slave cylinder and clutch, not the flywheel as everything looking good no sign of overheating.

Started to tighten the drive shaft and thought i'd put it in gear with the engine to help stop it turning, that is when i noticed the engine wasn't turning.

Is this a problem because I haven't bled the clutch yet or dual mass flywheel or have I done somethings wrong?

Thanks in advance

[zollaf]

welcome to the forum. now, in the geabox, between the shafts is a thing called a differential, diff for short. as you are turning the wheel, the other side is turning in the opposite direction. bes to google it to learn more as i dont have the time to explain how a diff works, and pictures are better than a thousand words. but no, there is no problem. get the wheels on and get someone to apply the footbrake as you tighten the nut up.

[pugwash59]

Thanks for that, I did check the other wheel and the probshaft to the rear and that wasn't turning, That is when the the alarm bells started ringing. I am sure i haven't put it back together wrong. I will continue to put the other drive shaft in and bleed the clutch and try it. Fingers crossed

[Doctle Odd]

I'm assuming you used new driveshaft nuts and torqued it properly. It's something over 200 nm which is as tight as a scouse miser

[pugwash59]

yep did all that 200nm then slacken then 60 degrees and it was bloomin tight

[pugwash59]

Well finally finished putting it all back together and it works fine.

It took me 4 days to get the gearbox out repair the selector fork and put it all back together working on my own. You could probably half that now I know what to do and the problems. I wouldn't say its the easiest job in the world. I also had to make lots of specialist tools, like the bolt inside the transfer box needed a super long 6mm allen key. Well I just welded an allen key to a small steel pipe and a bolt on the other end but worked a treat. I also had to make a special tool to push out the broken rivet on the selector fork in the gearbox.

Anyone attempting this I would say the worst part is undoing the 2 top transfer box bolts, there was a lot of swearing as you just couldn't reach them, eventually I found due to the casting of the gearbox it kept throwing the extension bars off central to the bolt. What you need is a long 8mm allen key the longer the better, chop the 90 degree bit off the end with a cutting disc. and then put the long end in an 8mm 3/8 socket. You can then just reach it then.

If I was doing this job again I would remove the subframe as I didn't and it was a struggle. Maybe the gearbox and transfer box will come out together with the subframe off?

Anyway, pleased it is all done for around £100 in total bit better than Audi quoted £4k