2001 1.9TDI power problem, freezing trip computer and starting problem

[chapster]

Nope, had my hand through the gap above the fuseboard (got the cuts all over my hand to prove it) and was able to fish around the hole where the connector should be and see in there clearly with my torch. No sign of the connector, it's not in the vicinity. Absolutely typical. Wish I hadn't bought this car, lots of problems with it so far.

[Doctle Odd]

Take off the panel under the steering wheel

[caldirun]

Nope, had my hand through the gap above the fuseboard (got the cuts all over my hand to prove it) and was able to fish around the hole where the connector should be and see in there clearly with my torch. No sign of the connector, it's not in the vicinity. Absolutely typical. Wish I hadn't bought this car, lots of problems with it so far.

Just wondering why you did buy it?

[Doctle Odd]

The fuse board is under a panel on the side of the dash there's no way you'd get your hand in and even if you did the OBD port would be on the other side of the steering column. There's 2 ways to solve this problem 1. Drop the panel below the steering column or 2 Pay someone else to do it. It's a lot easier to remove than it looks

[chapster]

The area beneath the side panel where the fuse board is located has a hole above it through which I put my hand and, reaching through and down, wiggled my finger through the hole where the OBD connector would normally have been. I did do it, I wasn't imagining it

I removed the lower panel beneath the steering column and found the OBD connector swinging free. Clipped it back into its hole in the panel and put everything back together. Someone must have pushed it through. Just charging my laptop in preparation for using the new diagnostic cable on the car. I've noticed car is boosting a bit late, at just over 2000rpm and boost seems a little erratic when it does come on at times, but then I know that the vacuum side is still a little leaky, so...

Why I bought the car? Long story... Under lots of stress - going through divorce, nutty wife snatched my 2-year-old son and refusing me access after he's been living with me for almost 5 months... so I'm not making the best of decisions. Completely the wrong time to go and buy a car. What can I say.

[Doctle Odd]

LOL you got to it the hard way. Anyhoo did you scan the car?

[chapster]

Just got in from scanning. Unfortunately the battery in my ancient laptop only lasted minutes so only grabbed engine fault codes. There were some for the instrument cluster but it died before I copied them. I also cleared the codes so I can re-scan tomorrow to see what has come back, if anything.

Is it normal for the autoscan to get as far as ABS scan, then say it needs a registered version, and stop? Because it means it misses other things like the instrument cluster which I had to scan separately in the manual mode.

Codes, not all yet deciphered:

17571 - P1163: Fuel temp sensor open or short to plus (I had already found the wires to this sensor's connector had been badly soldered and were shorting and so I sorted it a few days ago)

18062 - P1654: Google indicates it's the coolant temperature sensor. That sounds right as my dash temp gauge doesn't work. Might get new sensor.

18047 - P1639: Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal

17964 - P1556: Charge pressure control: negative deviation

[Doctle Odd]

18062 Oil level oil temperature fault code stored
18047 TPS throttle position sensor check wires
17964 turbo under boosting probably bad vacuum pipes or coolant temp sensor

You maybe could change the battery first these cars need quite a large battery as they draw a good bit of power. A bad battery can throw all sorts of fault codes that a good battery will cure. VCDS lite is somewhat limited if it wasn't who would pay for the full version?

Just got in from scanning. Unfortunately the battery in my ancient laptop only lasted minutes so only grabbed engine fault codes. There were some for the instrument cluster but it died before I copied them. I also cleared the codes so I can re-scan tomorrow to see what has come back, if anything.

Is it normal for the autoscan to get as far as ABS scan, then say it needs a registered version, and stop? Because it means it misses other things like the instrument cluster which I had to scan separately in the manual mode.

Codes, not all yet deciphered:

17571 - P1163 - Fuel temp sensor open or short to plus (I had already found the wires to this sensor's connector had been badly soldered and were shorting and so I sorted it a few days ago)

18062 - P1654 - undeciphered yet

18047 - P1639: Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal

17964 - P1556: Charge pressure control: negative deviation

Will edit once checked those undeciphered codes on the ross-tech website or google

[chapster]

My new battery arrived today and I fitted it. The tiny one I removed was only 320A, the replacement was 600A or more, can't recall exact figure. Now it starts perfectly, turns over fast, and the dash display doesn't black out during cranking.

So far fixed battery problem and turbo not boosting at all problem (vacuum leak). Will replace all vacuum pipes when new pipe arrives, see if I can reduce the current vacuum leakage and see if that improves turbo response before looking into that any further.

Outstanding is driver's seatbelt not retracting without lots and lots of help, and stereo sound only coming out of driver's door speaker.

Incidentally, can the stock radio/cassette player be replaced easily with a third party stereo?

[Doctle Odd]

Yes the radio is easily replaced you will need one of these to power the aerial VW Passat Polo Golf 5 Jetta , Car Aerial Amplified Adapter Lead PC5-137 | eBay The wires could be off the speakers on the other doors or the fade and balance could be maladjusted or the stereo could be a paperweight