is vagcom the only way to go

[Hex69]

If you go here you can look up the fault codes and see what they mean;

Category:Fault Codes - Ross-Tech Wiki

[the lemster]

thanks that is useful to know.

I got another code from the instrumetns bank.

coolant temp sensor.short to plus (intermittent) so looked at this and found that it was all a bit wet inside where the connector attaches to the sonsor.

so it looks and sounds quite easy to remove to cleen up and dry before trying it again. or buy a new one as they are aonly £10 or so.

hmm well that didnt go well, it just wouldnt come out. released pressure from the cooalnt tank. tried all the things I read and thought of. then gave it a bit of a wiggle with a flat head screwdriver at each edge just very gently to hopefully creak the seal a bit. I ahve sprayed it with penetrating oil to help this and left it for a while to soak in before I wiggled. then grabbed it with my fingers and felt movemtn so though here we go its on its way out.

some of it came out anyay, th opt half. it snapped off where it meets the metal housing it sits in so now I am left with half the sensor still inplace and a piece with four metal wires coming out of the bottom in my hand!!!

*** do I do now. HTH do I get that out? any ideas? does the housing come off? I do see some fixings but not sure if this is wise as it could spill coolant everywhere and I cant drive it as it will spirt cooalnt everywhere too.

please help.

[Hex69]

Have you got any pics to show the situation?

If you do spill coolant, you can always top it up with water for the time being at this time of year, short term it won't be an issue.

[the lemster]

Hi hex,

situation averted. problem was that the brass lip and probe had just seized into the aperture. managed to bend in the brass lip with a screw driver then after whizzing down to GMF to get a new sensor got some stopped at hoalfords to get some new long nose pliers and bending and pulling and bending and swearing and more wriggling and pulling it came out.

the inside was full fo coolant. the inside of the sensor that is.

the O-ring was completely perished, surprised it came out in one piece. rotten to bits.

cleaned out the 'tube' and fitted the new sensor.

coolant temp sensor error gone.

wooohoo score 2-1 me

now still ahv e the EGT sensor error 17861 G235. think this might require a new sensor too. will take it for a short spin tonight to see if the new CTS will make any difference to it if it learns new stuff or anything.

then lok at what needs doing for that.

will post pics of old sensor for yout o laugh at later...

Cheers
M

[the lemster]

oooh yeah coolant gauge now reads temp!!!

[Hex69]

Result..well done for persevering....

[the lemster]

now all I need to do is see if a good spin will get rid of the EGT error.

really dont want to pay £260 for a new one from AUDI dealer. tried GMT and they dont do one.

any ideas?...

audi part number is 078919529k (G235) drivers side EGT .

the dealer said there was two [parts to it the probe and the sender unit. probe is 120 and the sender is 260. grrr

[the lemster]

I am looking at having to replace my g235 (audi part number 078919529k) sensor this is the sensor on the driver side( RHD cars)

the price the Audi dealer near me quoted is £260 inc vat.

has any one found a cheaper supplier with quick delivery time?

.... time goes by...

I ahve just taken the old one out took 15 mins max and it seems fine. the probe end it solid no crfacks or obviuos defects and the sender end looks good to.

it actually has part number ending D not K as above.

The code I was getting was EGT1 (G235) Open or Short to Plus

cant see any signs of a short circuit. could it be the wiring inside the unit is knackered? could it be the wiring that attached to the sender unit an into the ecu or wherever it goes?

On a seperate note I noticed my coolant ank cap was a bit loose so took it off and found not only the pressure cap inside was all broken but thjer is also a hole int he tank in the bottom of the filler neck.

Could this be why my coolant light has stayed on permanantly after replacing the Coolant temp sonsor?

cheers

Matt

am I feted to replace it and spend the money or is there any other solution. another sensor that is shorting it out?

[the lemster]

well I bit the bullet and bought a pair of sensors from germanautopartsdirect £235 + postage.

audi dealer wanted 260, for what I thought would be a pair as it isreceommended you change in pairs. but it turns out that it was just a sinlge... cheeky munters!!!

anyhoo put the old one back in and tightened it up and drove it to see if the error code went... It didn't so I will revert to plan B and make a HOW TO to change the EGT sensors as on some forums they say it takes 4-6 hours... slackers!!! 1 hour max for both including lunch.

will report back later.

now just the AC code error 22.1 on dommand 1 AudiWorld Tech Articles want my AC working. I can fix anything ME

plus my cooloant light is permanently on. comes on after you switch ignition on and wont go off. grr.

ps if you want me to stop prattling on tell me!!!

[the lemster]

well well well the designers of these cars dont make it easy for you to change simple parts do they!!!


uk drivers side one took 15-20 mins to take out and replace. UK Passenger side on is just inaccessible from the top. you can see it, you can get a spanner almost on it but you cant get an angle to turn it. just not enough wriggle room so have borrowed a mates axle stands and will crack on with going at it from the bottom (phnarr phnarr) probably Thursday.

On the plus side when I finished replacing the drivers side (G235) I ran VCDS lite and the error code had gone but the other side now shows as an error. G236 open or short to plus. grrrr

DO THESE USUALLY GO IN PAIRS? or is this just the sart of the rabbit hole?...

so what I said would take me an hour above is taking me a bit longer. As with all these things when you have done it once it takes no time to do it again, trouble is things like this you probably only do once on a car. grrr again.

There is a third option and that is to cut through the metal sleeve that runs from the probe to the sender unit so you can then get a socket round it from above, but then again not sure if you will still not have any wiggle room. main problem is the exhaust heat shield is in the way of you getting easy access to the 'nut' on these parts. and to take that off you have to dismantle the whole car including boot liner!!! probably....

did take some video on my phone so will be creating a how to video when I finally do it.

cheers big ears