Rattle when air con turned off

[BMurr]

If you run into trouble as,I did and can't remove the clutch, my bodge of removing the big circlip and feeding a 10mm wide strip of inner bicycle tube into the gap between clutch and pulley does have instant satisfying results as the rattle disappears You need to feed the strips in at several points getting about 10 to 15cm length in each spot. It helps to have the front wheels up on ramps to give space for manoeuvre as your working without removing belt or pulley.

[ianlovatt]

Question: How stiff should the centre axle/spindle/bolt of the compressor be to turn (the one that needs to be counter-held) once belt and clutch plate have been removed? Should it be possible to turn with your fingers? I needed to use a spanner to rotate it. Wondering if my compressor internals are a bit stiffer than they should be. If so could that affect power steering when AC is on?

Background waffle:
So thought I'd make a start by spraying some rp90 (plus gas equivalent) this evening and poke around with compressor mounts before the new rubbers arrive.

I think I've had the opposite problem to most as my clutch plate came off without even needing to counter hold the centre! Just rolling the pulley anticlockwise to see what was what. Unfortunately I was a bit slow on the uptake that the plate was coming off and it pushed the circlip towards the edge and sheared off some of the retaining lip on the pulley body for the circlip. See pictures:
Shared album - ian lovatt - Google Photos

Realising I had become a bit more committed than I expected and needed to carry on I removed the circlip and plate then as shown in the picture found one of the ridges off the back of the clutch plate has been rattling around! I don't think I snapped it off during removal as the surface where it broke off looked like it had been smoothed from bouncing around in the void in the pulley.

Belt back on and for the moment I'm leaving the clutch plate off so it seems no Aircon as the pulley can only spin freely on the outer bearing.

Cheers,
Ian

Ps.
For first time aux belt removers like me I got one of these which was nice and long for the 16mn self tensioner pulley:
16MM EXTRA LONG COMBINATION SPANNER BRITOOL HALLMARK CEXM16 - Spanners & Wrenches - Hand Tools
From
BRITOOL ENGLAND 16MM EXTRA LONG COMBINATION SPANNER CEXM16A | eBay

[ianlovatt]

Meant to follow up to say new rubber dampers turned up ok in the end and I fitted them fine. Although I damaged the groove in the pulley the metal circlip fits in I've not had a problems and all the rattles have gone so thanks everyone in this thread for your help!

Cheers
Ian

[HalfAudio]

I bet you that the rattle is back is it? I have changed the kit with rubbers and roller and after 6 months its back. Bought a new good brand very expensive and it is again the same after a year I gave up I just turn up the music maybe it is just me

[ianlovatt]

Ok I'll keep an ear out for it. Not back just yet...��

[arman123]

Mine is fine too no noise replaced in 2014

[BMurr]

Update, my bodge of feeding rubber strips in between the pulley and clutch doesn't last very long. About a year ago I decided to use JB weld putty to weld the clutch and pulley together, roughened up the surfaces either side of where the circlip fits and rolled out a strip/worm of the putty and pushed it on all the way around while the pulley was rotated to push against the clutch which means the jb weld is only under stress from any rebound that occurs. No noise, went through last summer without any fuss, all done while compressor still fitted (belt off)and no need to remove. I'm not sure which component the rubber bushings are supposed to protect but the belt doesn't seem to suffer. I was careful to make sure the worm of putty was uniform so as to minimise creating an imbalance when the pulley is rotating at speed.