MOT Failure!

[m50yre]

Just back from the MOT centre, failed miserably!

Bit annoying considering the cash i've pumped into this year but never mind.

Most things i can do myself but a couple of things i need advice on.

Front (to rear) Fuel pipe leaking [7.2.1a] - never done fuel pipe on an injection, any tips? Haven't been underneath it so not sure if its a small section needing replaced or a long bit?

Exhaust emmisions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive [7.3.D.2b]

0.56% CO then 0.41% CO, nailed the lambda and HC and passed CO at idle, again any tips?

[fourringsrus]

Hi buddy , if you have a nose into my profile and then my previous posts , look at post from around 30/4/2011 titled ABC V6 Cat help, or words to that affect, you will see all the various readings I had with MOT failure and the eventual cure, a new cat at around £100, have a little read.
In relation to your fuel line issue I had the same issue with the same car and basically the problem is caused by the clamps which hold the metal pipework to the floorpan, they hold moisture and rot through the steel pipes when the full length appears to be in good condition.
Don't ponce about trying to replace sections between clamps because as soon as you disturb the pipes you will stress the pipe inside the next clamp and so on etc.
What I did was replace the pipes from front to back with suitable rubber fuel pipe and jubilee clips.
There are three pipes running front to back along the offside (drivers side) of your floorpan, feed , return , and breather, there is no need to bother with the breather as it's only a vent into the atmosphere, unless you are concerned with the environment.
I did mine with rubber and jubilee clips and then made tidy with cable ties and she passed the MOT.
Remember that this is much cheaper than genuine metal pipes ( around 70-100 quid each), so if you still have other failure issues you have not wasted too much dosh.
I had no special tricks in relation to injection etc just all the common sense things like no smoking etc plenty of rags to keep the driveway clean and release system pressure by opening filler cap before starting.
You say above that you can sort out all your other issues so you obviously know what your doing.
Good luck fella

Stuart

[m50yre]

Hey Stuart, thanks for the tips.

I think it'll pass this emmisions test as i hadnt used it for 2 months before the MOT, going to give it a tune up Italian style and see if that helps!

Any idea what type/bore pipe you used to replace the fuel lines with, and indeed if mine will be the same?

Another issue was a rough rear wheel bearing, ive just done the fronts but am unsure of the setup of the rears, my manual only shows a car with a drum? You ever done yours?

Cheers

Matt

[fourringsrus]

Evening Matt, I've just spent an hour re-tracing my previous threads as I also asked what bore size etc.
I have not found the answer so I will have a dig about in the shed on the morrow in daylight and see if I can get a measurement from the hosing that was left over.
I would also say that your piping will be exactly the same as mine and remind you to be very gentle with it to save splits all along the line.
Rear wheel bearings, never had to look at so cant help you there


PS
Would still get looking at the price of a cat, my car had around 15 miles of absolute thrashing prior to the test and made only the smallest change, new cat , sorted her

Good luck, I'll find the pipe bore and come back to you.

Stuart

[m50yre]

Hi Stuart,

Did you ever find a bit of that pipe? Does 8mm sound about right? Did you ditch the brackets that hold the 3 pipes together onto the floor then or did the rubber hoses fit in these still?

Any idea of an easy way of getting to the rear strut tops? Got some shocks and springs to fit, had a look last night but cant see an easy way in without removing loads of trim and carpet, cant imagine it should be that difficult!

Did the bearing, wasnt very hard just had to knock out the old shells and press new ones in.

[fourringsrus]

Hi buddy, no ..., completely forgot, but I've just been to look now, and yes 8mm is the outer diam of the steel pipe, so your hose needs to be a snug fit onto that.
As I didn't bother replacing the breather pipe I just about fitted the 2 new ( feed and return) hoses with the old breather back into the clamps but with the rubber carriers removed and then made neat and secure with cable ties. As I recall the clips were a bit fiddly to close up afterward but worth messing about with to keep it neat and tidy.
As for your rear strut assembly , yep you need to yank about,(carefully) with the arch inner panels and floor carpet.I didn't remove the arch cover completely but just prized them away just enough to access the top mount nut. Just the top nut and then the bottom of the shocker from the beam and you are there, not difficult but just fiddly.
How did you get on with the emmissions etc?

[fourringsrus]

Have you got the old girl tested yet , or still having issues?

[m50yre]

Issues - yes lack of free time! To tell the truth the list of advisories was quite long so im still working my way through it, with the new (crappy) MOT sheet showing advisories on it now i thought i should get rid of as much as i could, to give you a laugh heres the full list;

Failures;
Rear wheel bearing - done
Ball joint incorrectly seated - done,bolt knackered
Fuel pipes corroded - not started
Emmisions
Leaking caliper (cant find a leak??)

Advisories;
Corroded fuel pipes
Perished outer cv boot - done
Low engine oil (not sure why as it isnt)
OSF coil spring corroded - done
NSF coil spring corroded - done
OSR coil spring corroded - done
NSF coil spring corroded - done
Exhaust leaking

Its been the usual story im afraid, knackered the track rod end and tie bars taking out the strut so renewed them, then the small bolts holding in the flexy bracket on the back of the strut sheared off so i've had to drill them out, its just the odd hour here and there i get as i work away 2/3 nights per week.
Got a set of second hand but almost new springs and shockers from audibits2 on Ebay, excellent seller if you need anything.

[sidrick]

Sounds like you've got your work cut out there!

The front to rear fuel lines can be a pain. They tend to corrode where the fuel lines go under the heat sheild and into the engine bay. Apparently water can pool in the heat sheild.

Any more info on your 'Ball joint incorrectly seated - done,bolt knackered'? I got an advisory on my o/s one in July, and since I was replacing the wisbone on the n/s anyway, I replaced the o/s one too, with a new bolt. Over time the knocking returned and the bolt seemed to be working itself loose! I removed the bolt to find it was slightly bent!! I replaced the bolt again but the knocking has recently returned (it seems to take 2-3 weeks for the bolt to work itself loose) :-\

I think I'm looking at a replacement hub

[m50yre]

The ball joint i think may have been my fault, I replaced them when i did the wheel bearings and re-used the bolts and nuts. It seemed that when i hammered the bolt back in the groove in the ball joint wasnt completely lined up with the hole in the bearing housing and it flattened that side of the bolt thus allowing the joint to move about a bit

Took it over the Braemar road the week after which is the best road about here and it certainly handled great!

Bearing housing wont be cheap, what miles is on the car in question?