Audi allroad 2.5 tdi V6 2001. AKE Engine --Is it possible to remove crankshaft timing pulley.See photo

**hayabusa67** · 27-05-2011,09:56 PM

Trying to remove the housing behind this pulley. How do I remove the pulley. If i put a socket on the splined end of the shaft can it be removed. How do i turn clockwise, or anti clockwise. Also Has anyone an exploded view of the part of the engine??
Please see photo below.

**bagpipingandy** · 27-05-2011,10:50 PM

=hayabusa67;646162]Trying to remove the housing behind this pulley. How do I remove the pulley. If i put a socket on the splined end of the shaft can it be removed. How do i turn clockwise, or anti clockwise. Also Has anyone an exploded view of the part of the engine??
Please see photo below.

it can be removed, do you have the crankshaft locking pin in?

does not say what direction, why do you need it off??

see exploded picture: crank bolt.JPG

it also mentions replace with new bolt tighten to 200NM + 1/2 turn

Andy

**hayabusa67** · 27-05-2011,11:13 PM

Thanks Bagpipingandy.
I rebuilt the top end of the engine 13k miles ago with new cams followers etc etc.
When reassembling i noticed that the housing that the cam belt tensioner located into had the threads badly worn. I decided to put in a helicoil and screwed the tensioner bolt into it. (this is the tensioner that works off the ram that dampens movement). However the car would not start last week and when I looked at it initially it looked like an injector pump issue. However when i investigated further i discovered that the timing belt thickness was reduced from approx 25 mm to 12 mm. So i stripped the other day and found that the heli coil solution failed as the pulley came out of its location and twisted sideways, and as a result wore the belt as it was cutting off the pulley edge. As a result i want to remove the housing where the helicoil failed and replace it with a new piece of housing. -- Does this make sence?? Note that the photo i sent is a spline type end,but yours is a bolt. Is it the same thing?? Yes I have the crank locking pin in also.
Thanks for your help

**dan.taylor.1** · 28-05-2011,12:10 AM

You just need a 12 sided socket not a 6 sided.

Dan

**adamss24** · 28-05-2011,02:24 AM

I would not use the crank locking bolt to be honest as it can shear inside and crack the block- i have seen it done ! The last one i've done i made a brace out of very thick flat bar and i used high tensile bolts to counterhold the crank pulley. Garages use a big impact drill...

**hayabusa67** · 28-05-2011,06:23 PM

Thanks for your feedback folks.
One final question. Can you please confirm if it is a normal thread or a left hand thread. Thanks
Thomas

**hayabusa67** · 28-05-2011,07:47 PM

ok guys got it sorted. To confirm for all that it is a standard thread, but was very very tight.
Now onto another related question. I thought that when I removed the pulley and all the visible bolts that the part of the housing couldbe removed. However this does not appear to be the case. Is it possible that there are bolts holding it from the inside and the sump has to be removed to get at these bolts.
Also in order to put on the crankshaft seal does the housing have to be removed, or can it be removed and replaced without removing the housing.
Any help on this one folks.

Thanks

**bagpipingandy** · 28-05-2011,10:43 PM

The crankshaft seal can be removed with special tools:
see pic: tools.jpg

As Adam suggests do not use the crankshaft locking tool to take the force of tightening that bolt, dont what any more problems!!

regards

Andy

**Crasher** · 29-05-2011,12:29 AM

Well I have taken many front pulleys off V6’s and re-fitted them using the VAG approved method of the crank locking pin in the block and never had a problem.

**adamss24** · 29-05-2011,07:25 PM

Originally Posted by Crasher

Well I have taken many front pulleys off V6’s and re-fitted them using the VAG approved method of the crank locking pin in the block and never had a problem.

You're one of the many times lucky ones or maybe your genuine tools are made of a stronger steel than mine ? I have 2 broken locking tools due to trying to remove the crank bolt counterholding it via the crank locking tool ! To the op, the crank hosing/seal will require the oil pump removal and the lower sump and it's a bast ar.d of a job, done one last summer when a cheap Dayco belt broke at the joint line (only 1 month old !) and sheared the crank housing seal + bent a few valves whilst doing 70-80 Mph on a13 in London. Since then i only use Contitech parts never again Dayco... A friend of mine had that part helicoiled and his came apart 5-7k after the job and took his top end with it. I dont trust helicoils in that alloy part and i had a new cambelt tensioner bolt with a bigger thread and had that fitted whilst in pieces. 20k since and no problems, he's a happy chappy !