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  1. Re: Rebuild... 
    #21
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    I have the new head gasket and the head is back on. 10 new bolts and the gasket cost £42.86, then i went to machine mart for a torque wrench, because there was no way in hell that i was about to tighten them up without one. It goes 40nm then 60nm and a 1/4 turn. Just for anyone elses reference! Here are some pics of the engine now.
    Without the turbo...





    With the turbo...





    Intake and cogs are still waiting to go back on, they have been clean meticulously and then sprayed with the VHT aluminium silver paint. They look pretty good if i may say so my self! :P They are going back on tomorrow so i will have more pictures for your viewing pleasure! But i must apologise on the picture quality as my misses took our SLR to canada.

    Rich
    Headlight Conversion, 2x8000k HID kits, De-cat downpipe, .216 Nozzles Boost Gauge, Colour changed on climate control and all buttons, LED instrument cluster, LED number plate lights, LED rear/brake lights, Lowered 40mm on SPAX springs. Soon to have GT1749VA
     
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  2. Re: Rebuild... 
    #22
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    Hi all!

    Had the engine timed, worked great! With the new nozzles it was noticabley quicker, with the cleaned turbo and intake manifold the turbo spooled very quickly, so i had a huge grin!!

    However, and this is a huge however! The injector cog wasnt tightened properly and thus slipped on the small half circle bit of metal and has pretty much killed it, so i broke down in a huge cloud of white smoke....about 2miles from my house. Managed to tow it back home that night.

    Got up at 4am (as soon as the sun came up) i retimed it about 4times and after every time i tried to start the engine, it would smoke a little and then stop smoking when the cog slips 180degrees. With the 0 on the flywheel at top dead centre the cam and injector sprocket are 180 degrees out, so hopefully with the new half circle bit and retiming it will start. The valves should be ok as you can crank the engine by hand and there are no knocking noises. So I am hoping it will be a quick job to do on wednesday.

    Wish me luck

    Rich
    Headlight Conversion, 2x8000k HID kits, De-cat downpipe, .216 Nozzles Boost Gauge, Colour changed on climate control and all buttons, LED instrument cluster, LED number plate lights, LED rear/brake lights, Lowered 40mm on SPAX springs. Soon to have GT1749VA
     
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  3. Re: Rebuild... 
    #23
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    Right then all done. I found another picture that helped make more sense of it all.



    Not exactly the same as my pump, but i got the idea.

    Mine was basically where the red line was and the other line is where it should be. There is a small timing notch on the cog, that should line with the square thing on the pump.

    But...it has lots of black smoke. But that might be because pot 4 had a small leak at the top coming out of the injector hole. But it drives and is much quicker already!

    I will recap everything that i did and how much i spent later on. Also i will do a 'How to' on the cam belt.

    Thanks all!
    Headlight Conversion, 2x8000k HID kits, De-cat downpipe, .216 Nozzles Boost Gauge, Colour changed on climate control and all buttons, LED instrument cluster, LED number plate lights, LED rear/brake lights, Lowered 40mm on SPAX springs. Soon to have GT1749VA
     
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  4. Re: Rebuild... 
    #24
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    Right then the total cost of the build was as follows.

    Head Reconditioning: £185
    Head gasket: £19.50
    Head bolts x10: £17.50
    Cam belt kit: £48.50
    Ribbed belt tensioner: £48
    4 Injector bolts: £3.04
    4 Injector copper washers: £1.80
    Woodruff key: £0.89
    Timing labour (me learning how to do it): £40

    So that comes to a grand total of: £364.23

    Not bad you say...well that was with out VAT!

    The total VAT was: £27.75

    So the total total was £391.98

    Not bad really I thought i was over £500 to be honest. The misses isnt pleased either way.

    I have a small fuel leak on two injectors, but i think its because the copper seals are crap quality. So silicon sealant is to be used! But thanks for all the help car runs nicely but massively smokey!

    Next is a new clutch and a remap for 150bhp and less smoke. Then to be lowered a little, 40mm and then my RS4 body kit to go on.

    Rich
    Headlight Conversion, 2x8000k HID kits, De-cat downpipe, .216 Nozzles Boost Gauge, Colour changed on climate control and all buttons, LED instrument cluster, LED number plate lights, LED rear/brake lights, Lowered 40mm on SPAX springs. Soon to have GT1749VA
     
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  5. Re: Rebuild... 
    #25
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    No amount of silcon will seal a diesel leak you idiot, If it leaks from the injectors you have done some thing wrong. The fact that you got the timing wrong or loose tells me you should not be messing with cars full stop. The thing you broke is called a wood ruff key and once rolled is scrap. A lick of paint and wishful thinking will not make it any faster. This car is high mileage and any attempt to make it more powerful will more than likely end up in a big pile of engine parts in the gutter. Please for your own and missus sake leave any further messing to some one who knows what they are doing.
     
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  6. Re: Rebuild... 
    #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by hibbsy21 View Post
    It goes 40nm then 60nm and a 1/4 turn. Just for anyone elses reference!
    A quote from the VAG manual



    • Tighten cylinder head bolts in four stages in sequence shown as follows:
    - Tighten using torque wrench:
    • 1. Stage 1: 40 Nm
    • 2. Stage 1: 60 Nm
    Tighten with rigid wrench:
    • 3. Stage 1: 90°(1/4 turn) further
    • 4. Stage 1: 90°(1/4 turn) further
     
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  7. Re: Rebuild... 
    #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike ryan View Post
    No amount of silcon will seal a diesel leak you idiot, If it leaks from the injectors you have done some thing wrong. The fact that you got the timing wrong or loose tells me you should not be messing with cars full stop. The thing you broke is called a wood ruff key and once rolled is scrap. A lick of paint and wishful thinking will not make it any faster. This car is high mileage and any attempt to make it more powerful will more than likely end up in a big pile of engine parts in the gutter. Please for your own and missus sake leave any further messing to some one who knows what they are doing.
    Firstly, thank you for your kind reply... secondly I didnt get the timing wrong or loose of that matter, I didnt do it the first time, i watched an learned how to. And thus sorted it out without help at all. If you read the posts correctly you would have seen that. Also i know what a wood ruff key is, if you looked at my summary of costs you would see it listed. As for the high mileage you mentioned i am aware of this. Thanks for your concern but i know what i am doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crasher View Post
    A quote from the VAG manual



    • Tighten cylinder head bolts in four stages in sequence shown as follows:
    - Tighten using torque wrench:
    • 1. Stage 1: 40 Nm
    • 2. Stage 1: 60 Nm
    Tighten with rigid wrench:
    • 3. Stage 1: 90°(1/4 turn) further
    • 4. Stage 1: 90°(1/4 turn) further
    Yep this is what i did.
    Headlight Conversion, 2x8000k HID kits, De-cat downpipe, .216 Nozzles Boost Gauge, Colour changed on climate control and all buttons, LED instrument cluster, LED number plate lights, LED rear/brake lights, Lowered 40mm on SPAX springs. Soon to have GT1749VA
     
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  8. Re: Rebuild... 
    #28
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    I have been watching you progress every step of the way,and I have to say you are brave to try and do all this work yourself.it doesn't matter if you've made some small mistakes along the way but at least you had the courage to do it.everyone learns from their mistakes,but you'll never now how to do anything if you don't try.I know you spoke to chris at cc tuning to get yours remaped before you had problems with your engine.I went and done mine to take advantage of the offer they had last month and I'm very pleased with the results.go for it when you get your engine sort it NO MATTER what milleage yours is on at the moment.If you can find someone else to go with you I'm sure Chriss wil give you a good deal.don't worry to much about the misses,before you now it she'll buy herself another pair of shoes in revenge.mine does so all the time.good luck with your litlle project and don't let some comments get to you.
     
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  9. Re: Rebuild... 
    #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike ryan View Post
    No amount of silcon will seal a diesel leak you idiot, If it leaks from the injectors you have done some thing wrong. The fact that you got the timing wrong or loose tells me you should not be messing with cars full stop. The thing you broke is called a wood ruff key and once rolled is scrap. A lick of paint and wishful thinking will not make it any faster. This car is high mileage and any attempt to make it more powerful will more than likely end up in a big pile of engine parts in the gutter. Please for your own and missus sake leave any further messing to some one who knows what they are doing.
    Must admit to having some of these thoughts over the past few weeks, but i am
    impressed by the mans determination to do as much as possible by himself and
    his honesty at publicizing any hiccups or mistakes he may have made, some of
    the rest of us (and i include me) may not have been as forthcoming.

    Yes, the engine might explode in a blaze of glory at 140mph, (on the autobahn)
    but this job is a learning exercise and the knowledge gained will stand Rich in
    good stead for future projects.

    I say good luck to him.

    Regards
    Jim
     
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  10. Re: Rebuild... 
    #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by hibbsy21 View Post
    Yep this is what i did.
    Good, I just wanted to make sure as it is not what you said you had done.
     
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