Audi A6 2.5TDI 1999 Quattro starting problems

[badgers007]

Hi all.

Good evening everybody. First post so go easy please...
I have an Audi quattro 2.5tdi 1999 and the last three mornings the car has been very slow starting.
After the heater plugs light goes out the car takes a good 10 seconds of cranking in order for the engine to fire. Once that happens a big cloud of white/ grey smoke leaves the exhaust. ( unused diesel?)
After looking at the oil on the dipstick looks all black.
And the water in the tank looks dark but not shinny or anything. or is this just the start and have stumbled onto a head gasket problem
Can anyone help with diagnosing head gasket symptons, or other possible problems.

The problem doesn't reappear for the rest of the day only again in the morning.

Hope somesome out there may be able to offer some advice ( would be greatly appreciated).
Thanks.

[NickPicks]

I'd be suspicious that some of the glow plugs are not working properly.

Be warned though - I've heard that glow plugs are easy to snap off when removing and a nightmare to get out if they do.

If you post your engine code (3 letters on the sticker in the service book or spare wheel well), then I'm sure that some of the very knowledgeable people here will advise on the specifics of your engine.

The coolant should be pink. If it's brown, it probably needs changing.

[dean warren]

sounds more like fuel pump EDC to me, friend of mine just had same problem on his Allroad!

[shabazmo]

I would put my money on glow plugs. Remove one of them and test the resistance. If I can recall correctly, a 1/4 in drive deep 10mm socket with extension bar should do, it should be only a few ohms. If greater than 200, then replace. The 2.5 needs glow plugs in sub 10C temps.

[Crasher]

Removing those glow plugs makes me feel queasy every time. I did a set a few weeks back and every one creaked and juddered coming out, not a pleasant experience. Whatever you do, once removed DO NOT refit a glow plug even if it works, a snapped one will ruin your day.

[badgers007]

I'd be suspicious that some of the glow plugs are not working properly.

Be warned though - I've heard that glow plugs are easy to snap off when removing and a nightmare to get out if they do.

If you post your engine code (3 letters on the sticker in the service book or spare wheel well), then I'm sure that some of the very knowledgeable people here will advise on the specifics of your engine.

The coolant should be pink. If it's brown, it probably needs changing.

Thanks very much for the advice, i'll be on that first thing in the morning.

[badgers007]

sounds more like fuel pump EDC to me, friend of mine just had same problem on his Allroad!

Really worried at the cost of the fuel pump problem how would I go about checking for this?
Many thanks

[badgers007]

I would put my money on glow plugs. Remove one of them and test the resistance. If I can recall correctly, a 1/4 in drive deep 10mm socket with extension bar should do, it should be only a few ohms. If greater than 200, then replace. The 2.5 needs glow plugs in sub 10C temps.

Really, well its been 6C- 8C this week in bristol so that could work. thankyou for the advice. Any ideas on a haynes like manual for the car as haynes dont do 1999 2.5tdi or am I misaken.
Regards

[badgers007]

Removing those glow plugs makes me feel queasy every time. I did a set a few weeks back and every one creaked and juddered coming out, not a pleasant experience. Whatever you do, once removed DO NOT refit a glow plug even if it works, a snapped one will ruin your day.

So are you saying remove a glow plug test if it was ok and fit a new one. If it turns out to be bad then i'll know the culprit? Or replace all in one morning?
Many thanks

[allan_audi]

I would put my money on glow plugs. Remove one of them and test the resistance. If I can recall correctly, a 1/4 in drive deep 10mm socket with extension bar should do, it should be only a few ohms. If greater than 200, then replace. The 2.5 needs glow plugs in sub 10C temps.

You don't need to remove the glow plugs to test. Take off the connector and just measure resistance from the tip to a good earth on the engine. Should be no more than a couple of ohms.

When I checked mine they were all open circuit. But they're scary to change, lots of penetrating fluid and engine warm but managed it, they creak and groan on the way out. Don't re-use old ones, not worth it. Put a bit olf copper ease on the threads before you refit them.