NM problem (anti-knocking sensors)

**baihui** · 07-12-2010,10:04 PM

Hi,

I have general problem with my NM engine, and my question is if there is some alternative for Anti Knocking Sensors for NM or 7A, but not the original ones. The reason is that they are extremely expensive in my region. I know that there are alternatives for the Injectors, so why the hell not for the knocks ?

Cheers

**m50yre** · 08-12-2010,11:55 AM

Dont know much about your engine type but from what i gather you can try cleaning them and clearing the error code to start with. Failing that you can google the part numbers below.

#1 (front - green connector) is 054 905 377C.
#2 (rear - blue connector) is 054 905 377B.

Part numbers 30 & 31 on the attached PDF.

Cheers
Matt

**baihui** · 08-12-2010,02:01 PM

Hi,

I took the numbers from ETKA and as I mentioned the sensors are very expensive here this is why I asked for alternatives, but thanks

**m50yre** · 08-12-2010,10:43 PM

Hi,maybe try the guy from quattro corner?

**baihui** · 09-12-2010,11:51 AM

who that might be ?

**m50yre** · 09-12-2010,01:10 PM

Saw him on the TV once, think he specialises in the previous UR quattro but is definately worth asking...

http://www.quattrocorner.com/

**scotty33** · 11-12-2010,12:59 AM

If you want to prove the knock sensor is at fault, swap the front and rear plugs over, see if the fault code changes with the sensor position. Sensors are both the same, but one has longer wire.
Also worth checking that the point/site on the engine block that the knock sensor screws into is clean - no paint/rust and the knock sensor should be torqued correctly. To do this properly, you need a crow foot wrench with a socket attachment.
Maybe you will find new old stock sensors on E bay uk or de?

Quote Baihui:

Ok so firstly according to AutoData the car should work with H98 not H95, however I am driving it with H95. I know that this could cause some loss of power and perhaps and most probably higher gasoline consumption but I doubt that the difference could be as much as 5 - 6 liters. I've tried few times to drive it with H98 but I saw no difference at all, but this was an year ago or so. There is no sticker or what so ever near the filler cap.

using too low octane rating fuel, can cause a knock sensor fault code. Are you still using H95?

**baihui** · 11-12-2010,11:20 AM

Originally Posted by scotty33

If you want to prove the knock sensor is at fault, swap the front and rear plugs over, see if the fault code changes with the sensor position. Sensors are both the same, but one has longer wire.
Also worth checking that the point/site on the engine block that the knock sensor screws into is clean - no paint/rust and the knock sensor should be torqued correctly. To do this properly, you need a crow foot wrench with a socket attachment.
Maybe you will find new old stock sensors on E bay uk or de?

Quote Baihui:

Ok so firstly according to AutoData the car should work with H98 not H95, however I am driving it with H95. I know that this could cause some loss of power and perhaps and most probably higher gasoline consumption but I doubt that the difference could be as much as 5 - 6 liters. I've tried few times to drive it with H98 but I saw no difference at all, but this was an year ago or so. There is no sticker or what so ever near the filler cap.

using too low octane rating fuel, can cause a knock sensor fault code. Are you still using H95?

Hi Scotty, nice to hear back from you.

Ok so are you saying to swap the sparks cables, or both sensors ?
Yep I still drive with H95 if you can say drive. The consumption is about 4.5 liters for 25 kms.

so I can't say I am driving the car, almost at all.
Anyways if I swap the sparks, then the sensors should give fault code while the car is running, correct ?

Cheers

**scotty33** · 11-12-2010,08:55 PM

If the car should run on 98 RON (H98) AND it has been chipped - which usually involves adding a few more degrees of advance to the ignition settings, it becomes even more critical that you use 98 RON or higher fuel.
A Standard car should be able to run 95 RON fuel, which will probably cause knocking to occur and the knock sensors will pick up on this and cause the ECU to retard timing, leading to loss of power and poorer km/litre.
A Chipped car running 95 RON fuel may not be able to retard timing enough, the knocking will continue, The knock sensor(s) will then show up as faulty in a fault code read, when in fact the issue could be fuel of too low octane rating.
Try running Shell V power if you can get it, Octane is 99+ and always gave me better fuel consumption in my 20v, which offsets the extra cost.
I meant for you to swap the knock sensor wires over at the connector plugs, from memory they are green and blue I think? If the fault code you were getting is for just the one sensor, the new fault code after swap should be for the 'other' knock sensor.

**baihui** · 12-12-2010,01:57 PM

ok will do the test with the gasoline, but I doubt it will work. but still this is easy test.
ok so what happens if I switch the KS off ? unplug them?
I red that they are producing constant voltage that notifies the ECU, kinda they are there, and if they detect explosions, then they produce higher voltage ? Is this correct? I am wondering because if they do not produce any voltage in normal running then unplugging them should solve my problem at least temporary ?