Audi 80 AAZ timing belt follow up.

[minny]

Indeed I have. I have taken the radiator fans off for access. And taken the 4 8 mm nuts of the glow plugs, all of which fell down the side of the engine due to quite fiddly access because of the injection pump and pipes., so I have to find them as I'm going.

I suspect the next course of action will be draining the oil (which will annoy me, because I have just put in some expensive oil treatment) and coolant.

I was thinking of taking the alternator off to release the v belt, and I've loosened a couple of bolts on a part that I think it's called the auxiliary ribbed belt, (not the v belt) is tensioned with, this part is on the lowest right, it looked to have a ratchet nut on it that I assumed to be the tensioning device, but nothing happened so I left the nuts to go and check upon it.

Basically, it's time to get serious.

Trouble is, when you start, you can keep going, while I'm there i can check the alternator brushes, the fuel in injectors since I have to use them, or get a garage to do it, I was looking at wheeler dealers and they where talking of the wear on the crank shaft.

But befre all that, I have to be assured of the basics, and that's all the timing, if I line up the holes of the fuel injector pulley with a lock, then use then lock on the cam shaft with tdc on the timing marks, I hope that all I need to do to make sure the engine is all in synch and will fire and work as it should when put back together again.

[minny]

By the way, still not sure if I clamp the fuel lines before taking the pipes of, or weather it's just fine to take them off.

[Tobster]

I tend to position them so the ends are high to prevent any spillages. If they do leak they'll continue to siphon fuel from the tank.

To be completely honest I'd treat that engine as a complete observation project. It'd probably be far cheaper to replace the engine than attempt to repair the damage to the head. My last head replacement cost me £80 in parts only to discover it was warped!

[minny]

That's the other consideration whether it's worth it. A complete set of valves inlet and exhaust will be about £81, not to say I'd need all.

It also needs all round brakes and discs, that's another reason I'm baulking.

But then, I knew it run has sweet has a nut, had a little over 100,000 miles on it, it has a date of the last timing belt change on it, that was 2003 and the mileage was 86,000 miles, so the cars done less than 20,000 miles in 8 years. Since the oil treatment it was actually running quieter then my old petrol Audi 80.

Plus, I just bough a new battery for £45 and just two months ago 2 new rear tyres at 130, plus the alignment and so on.

I know a competence diy mechanic would have this done in an afternoon and have a very good diesel td Audi 80 for a good few years, for probably no more than the price of a few valves and the timing kit, gaskets and so on.

[A4 Lad]

Send me the year, model, cc and engine code and your email. Ill send you the workshop manual instructions of how to do it to reasure you. I have never emailed them to somone so hopefully I can figure it out for you.

[minny]

OK good people. After not being able to work on the car for weather and other reasons it is now time to return to this engine.

I have the engine locks for this car now, but I was a little concerned that it was telling me under no circumstances turn the crankshaft, camshaft and injection pump without the timing chain on.

This is a worry because when the belt broke obviously the engine just spun with out it on. I have already had to turn the injection pump around on it's own to line up the lock holes and will have to line up TDC.

It was saying that all the timing would be out. I don't see any alignment marks on any of the pulleys, so i was wondering if I locked the injection pump, then set the engine at TDC then locked the camshaft, would this be all it takes to set the engine timing correct? I don't want to be going to all this effort just to turn the engine when it's back together for the same thing to happen.

Also the lower timing belt cover, seriously, do you have to remove the crankshaft pulleys to get it off? is is there some hidden clips holding it on?

[minny]

Blimey there's always something. New it says put the camshaft locking tool at the back. I assume this means put it on the bit that is under the car window, not the bit nearest the front of the car near the radiator just behind the timing belt covers.

[micheal balbrig]

Blimey there's always something. New it says put the camshaft locking tool at the back. I assume this means put it on the bit that is under the car window, not the bit nearest the front of the car near the radiator just behind the timing belt covers.

The cam locking thing goes in the slot at back of camshaft.
The pulley will have to be removed from crankshaft so you will need to lock
crankshaft from turning for this operation. Study manual very carefully to avoid any errors.

[minny]

Thank you for that. Trouble is there is no particular Manual for this Audi. I'm having to go on the description for the golf vento which has the AAZ engine. Of course it is situated differently in the engine and the exhaust manifolds are all different.

Makes it more complex than it should be.

Good job for this place that's all I'll say

[minny]

I just noticed. I can set the TDC by rotating the crankshaft, but with the timing belt being off when it snapped the fuel injection and the cam pulleys wont rotate in synch with one another. The fuel injection is fine it has a big hole to lock it with which i assume I can set it in the right place for timing. But what about the cam?

I have to lock that, but this has to be done when the engine is at TDC but of course whit the timming belt already being off, the cam is not going to rotate, which means it's not going to be in synch with TDC. As far as i can see there is not a single timing mark on the cam pulley that I can see.

How can I get this in synch and timed with TDC? DO I lock the cam first and then turn the crankshaft to TDC and then all will be in synch and timed again.

Because, according to these in instructions, locking the cam gives the timing reference for the car.